Breadman

Fuel filter info noted. Cheers. Front brakes have come to life overnight. And managed to weld some fuel line fittings onto the tank.

Fuel Injector testing this week and with the unmodified fuel rail, there was a significant lack of fuel on the right hand cylinder. After modification of the fuel rail, I now have a very steady flow across all injectors. I even moved the injectors across to different cylinders and everything still seems ok. In other news, the front brakes are proving to be a pain to bleed so it's a cable tie around the lever and I will return to that next week. I have to remove the swinging arm again as I'm not happy with the clearance between the frame and chain. I have a better condition chain guide rubber so it is a good time to fit that. The bandit swinging arm in the Gsxr frame gives a shorter wheelbase and I have also got a smaller rear sprocket. This means the chain runs much closer to the swinging arm so a better condition chain guide is a good idea. The brembo clutch master cylinder looked good on the outside, but the piston and seals needed replacement. New parts ordered and yet another job for next week. The blue petrol tank in the previous pictures has no mounting lugs for the frame and side panels. I have another petrol tank which I will fit but I need to weld new fuel line fittings to it. Next week will be busy and the good weather is coming so there is much to do. Another set back happened today........the fuel pump I was given has now starting to make a nasty grinding sound. The fuel tank has plenty of fuel so it's not air causing cavitation. A new pump has been ordered. I am fed up of delays caused by secondhand parts. Saving money is good. Messing around fixing stuff is bad. I also checked the fuel filter but all looks good and clean. ??

I decided to drill and tap the other end of the fuel rail so fuel is in one end and straight out the other end. The original suzuki fuel fitting has been welded shut. Injector flow testing next week.

All good info. Thank you everyone. I will change the fuel rail and get rid of the Suzuki fitting and just have fuel coming in at one end and out at the other. Makes sense really. Will test the flow from all the injectors again. FPR is in the correct place but I will check, check and check everything again.

Despite the fuel rail being pressurized @ 3 bar, was the fuel taking the path of least resistance ?????? I have now swapped the fuel pipes over so the inlet is as Mr Suzuki intended. If the problem persists, I will blank off the original Suzuki inlet and just feed the fuel in and out of the main fuel rail.

Despite my efforts of trying to tune the bike, I noticed that the spark plug on Number 4 cylinder..........as you are sitting on the bike..........seemed to be a bit leaner than the other spark plugs. I swapped the plugs and coil packs around but the problem was the same. The Suzuki fuel injection system is mounted upside down from its normal GSXR600 orientation so the injectors are on top. Fuel was entering from the left hand side of the bike and then exiting out of the original fitting, between 3 and 4 cylinders. This fitting was actually the original Suzuki INLET . I have circled this in the photo.

I have not fitted the rear brake pedal or master cylinder so lets hope it does its job.

New parts ordered and everything reassembled and then I decided to fit the thumb brake that I have from another project. It looks weird mounted on the handlebars and my one picture doesn't really help but with new homemade stainless brake lines, new fluid and it works very well. There is a surprising amount of feel when you push the lever and I actually think that it will be easier for me to handle any wheelies.

To progress further with the engine tuning, I need to finish the bike enough so I can ride it down the road. BRAKES....... I need them so I stripped down the rear brake that I had and it was useless. More £££££

With the wiring now reworked and insulated beyond what is probably needed, it was time to get the bike to start and run after my various problems. Yes, it started but something else wasn't right. Massive overfuelling problems. So I called upon Arttu to inspect the datalogs. There is so much info from the ECU and I don't know what I'm looking for, it's just so confusing. I am becoming more familiar with what is going on and how to interpret it especially when you have some help. Back to the fuel problems. I checked through the wiring as Arttu had asked me to do and the map sensor seemed to be the culprit. The sensor was reading 1.6 bar all the time and was just launching fuel into the engine. I drained the oil out of the bike and there was certainly some fuel in it. As the bike hadn't really run or been under load, I'm sure no damage has been done. Took a recommendation by Clivegto and got some Westway 10/40 oil. Definitely cheaper than what I was using. A quick fire up of the engine with no map sensor problems and the datalog showed that the fuelling was still a bit rich. With the Megasquirt, you have to let the warm up enrichment phase finish before it transitions to your main fuel table at a given engine temperature. I shut down the fuelling some more and I now have a steady idle. I am very happy with this. Just to have the bike running for 10-15 minutes after spending over a year of my life getting to this point is just so good for the soul. Brake caliper refurbishment and installation is next on my to do list as well as some further attempts with the mapping.

Not wanting to repeat this again, I have ripped out all of the wiring and built a whole new, and simplified, loom and have also used so much cable protection and insulation to be 100% sure. Thankfully it has all been tested again and everything is working as it should. I haven't tried to run the engine as yet so that is work in progress at the moment. I have also got rid of the Innovate A/F gauge and I will now run a Spartan controller with the Bosch O2 sensor and just rely on Tuner Studio to display A/f settings and data logging once I can start riding and tuning the bike. I have finished fitting the gsxr rear wheel, and made spacers to allow the bandit swinging arm to fit the slingshot frame. Bought an offset front sprocket and this all now seems to be in alignment. Currently making some different foot peg hangers as the original Suzuki ones didn't suit my riding position with the wide,straight handlebars as there was way too much weight on my arms.

I managed to get another laptop after the last one stopped functioning. Plugged it in and all was good again. Unfortunately, 2 days later, I plugged it back into the bike and relays starting clicking and then it all went dead. Got out the multimeter and after a lot of checking through the loom only to find that the VREF output pin from the ecu was only showing 2 volts and this was the same voltage I was getting out to the TPS, MAP, MAF sensors. It should have been 5 volts. So I had got a short circuit in the wiring and this had damaged the ecu. BUGGER. Only one thing to do now and that was to get it back to Arttu where he weaved his magic and fixed the problem, wrestled with the Finland customs and finally got my ecu back to me. Thanks.

Tank is a great piece of workmanship.

Enginuity........if you can make it work, just do it.

Loving the work on this project.

The ARP bolts may hit the oil channel. I decided not to grind the bolt and removed part of the oil channel. This was on my Bandit 1200 engine.

Arttu's prediction about the fuse was correct. Thankyou. The AFR meter has a separate inline fuse of the same rating but that didn't blow ! I have now thrown away my cheap Amazon fuses and bought proper ones. Fitted the new Suzuki friction and steel plates back into the clutch basket and finished it off with the FBM lock up clutch (diaphragm version) which I had acquired with the smallest weight of nut and hex bolt on all 4 of the clutch arms. New wheel bearings were fitted to the Bandit rear wheel and I now need to measure and make some spacers up for the Bandit swinging arm so it fits in the Slingshot frame. Now all of this has been done, next step is to start the bike again and use the autotune for the warm up enrichment....because I really am in new territory here and need all the help I can get. Have fitted a longer exhaust pipe with the Lambda sensor in a better position to aid the autotune facility. Even though I intend to use just a short exhaust as you can see in my earlier pictures, I am liking this extended version. Needs a flapper cap on the end to stop the rain if I keep it. My ageing laptop has also decided to stop talking to the ECU, yet another problem I have had to correct.

Very, very nice

The injector test involves measuring the fuel at various pulsewidths and then plotting onto a graph which I found on the Megasquirt forum. It does seem a lot of work to get the deadtime but I am sure it will be worthwhile. I will check the ecu. Thanks for the info Arttu.

All the wiring has now been wrapped and just needs a bit of heat proofing in certain places. Swapped the Lithium battery for a gel version. This seems to handle the constant charging and engine cranking much better and I can use the lithium on something else. I fitted a AN-10 pipe to the turbo and this has a 20cm distance to the facet scavenge pump. I have discarded the oil tank that I was given and as long as I remember to run the pump briefly before starting and after stopping the engine, it seems to be working fine and no oil smoke on start up. I have been trying to get the injector deadtime as accurate as possible for the Subaru injectors. Looking online has given me some varying figures but none of the figures quoted were taken at the 13.2volts that Megasquirt 2 uses as a baseline. Im all new to this ecu programming and whilst a ballpark figure will get your engine running, it just makes sense to find out the exact deadtime for my ecu and injectors (time it takes for the injector to open and close when its told to). YouTube to the rescue and a solution. I started doing what I was told in the video.....and.... the fuel rail o-ring on the injector split. Swapped the injector for another one and then the alternator stopped working so gotta fix that before I can start the test again. The A/F meter has also lost its 12v power from the ecu and I cant understand why. It works and functions fine when connected to an alternative power source but it would be nice to solve the puzzle. The end of November seems about right for some testing and I have been trying to find a dyno shop which has availability and knows their way around the Megasquirt/Tunerstudio software. I have decided to treat the bike to some new Suzuki clutch plates but this comes at a horrendous cost !! I would hate to have it slip when I've got it on a dyno and waste the time and money spent getting there. Lets hope nothing else breaks before then.