Sam-Jaffa

Same old shitter for me, don't think anything else will be done by then

If you insist I'll come down and make us look good

Where I say crack I meant break in to 2 pieces. Referring back to the levers, I've had 4 or 5 sets on various bikes and never had an issue with then

Even OEM parts fail, E.G. I've known loads of bandit right hand foot rests fail and crack near the master cylinder, yet people still use them. it's the law of reviews with stuff like this, you could sell 1000 items, 990 like your things yet less than a third would leave a good review, those other 10, most not them will leave a bad review to warn people off and that's what potential customers will see, they would be aware that the other 990 have been faultless

I've heard the horror stories a fair few times throughout different forums but have yet to see a picture or a failed lever, not to say they haven't failed but pictures speak a thousand words, on the other hand, I have known plenty of stock cast aluminium levers fail, so I think it's just luck of the draw

I must ask if there is any material refering to these breakages? I've never heard of a Chinese lever failing, I've ran them on alotbof bikes, I've even had my bike fall on another bike clutch lever first and the lever never failed

my biggest concern wouldnt be failure but whether they can actually supply adequate pressure for a pair of 4 pot calipers, i imaging they would be very spongey, maybe have a look at standard fitment masters from other bikes as there are some ace standard ones out there!

I won't be there unfortunately, due to funds as I've an expensive couple of months coming up, gutted doesn't cover it though

Can I add my wife when she's either hungry or when I've been in the garage too long to that list?

Whatchoo talkin 'bout Willis?

no problem CC

yeah, its 100ohm 0.5 watt

If you think I'd have a GS with a GS engine in you don't know me that well

Here you go matey https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.classiccycles.org/media//DIR_1653304/DIR_1762756/1b0aa491b60a7ac3ffff848dffffe415.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwj8x63cmv_eAhVD_qQKHYQIA6YQFjALegQIBhAB&usg=AOvVaw15Se2LQyhfKM3NV42J6U-6

snipped from the wiring diagram, showing what connections the ignition makes and where i have marked in blue shows which circuit the resistor should be in

i'll make up a better picture with a snippet from a wiring diagram to make it easier for people

This isn't relating to the side stand switch, this is purely showing where the resistor fits in the ignition wiring matey

These are the 6 wires going to the ignition and their colours, the way they are is how they are when the ignition is turned on this covers the colours are accurate for a mk1 600 and 1200 bandit, they vary on the MK2 the grey is and orange/yellow but the connectiona are the same

Nope, I thought this, it's is definitely a 750G yank import

To be fair his missus weighs nowt, the third shocker idea isn't a bad idea maybe last resort thing

yeah.....hard tailing isnt really an option really as he takes his missus on the back, and as for dropping the pressures, when you're running 215 40 17 tyres you could run them flat and it'd still be brutal

evening chaps! a friend of mine has a GS750G trike and needs some rear shocks, they're bloody awful. they appear to be standard length 300ish mm. what are people using as an upgrade on their GS's that wont brake the bank? cheers

i did this a while ago......

just dont ask for the price on an et seat

you know im game mate if theres a sofa and a warm blanket/dog available