TiZiK
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Posts posted by TiZiK
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3 hours ago, Arttu said:
Oil cooled engines that I have tuned have usually liked about 28-30° timing at 1 bar boost. And if the stock N/A timing is around 34-36° then that would be close to degree per 20kPa that you mentioned. 1 degree per psi sounds excessive in any case.
Thanks Arttu. I thought 1* per psi was a bit much as well. From your experience, hows this table look for a starting point?
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I have no intercooler but will be using meth-injection to help cool and curb knock. Should also add its drag only. May plate it to cruise to a bikenight here and there but not at all concerning myself with a street friendly tune.
So you think 1*/psi is a good starting point? At what psi would you suggest to start pulling timing? I've read to wait until 3-4psi before pulling timing.
Its a rather large turbo if that matters. Holset HY35. Similar compressor size to the HX but a smaller 9cm^2 single scroll turbine house instead of the twin scroll 12cm^2
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Getting to the stage where I am able to start testing and dialing in the set up.
I have a 1316cc slabby with efi. Fully built engine with 10:1 comp. and stock head aside from springs etc.
I've seen info stating to pull 1* per psi of boost, and have also read on a thread in the archives to pull 1* for each 20KPA which equates to 1* for every 3psi.
What is a good starting point for retarding the timing on boost for these engines and where did you end up with the engine being the happiest?
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1 hour ago, no class said:
your 1052 sump will be the best option for setting the bike low......the left rear ( where the pick up sits) is the lowest point ) the banjo bolts sit slightly recessed in relation to the sump pick up . Bandit 12 , gsxr 1100 and gsxf1100 are all taller sumps compared to the 1052....so no gain there ...... in all configurations....the lowest point of all the sumps will be the drain plug . top pic is gsxf1100 …. bottom pic is 1052
@no classValid Point. I am out of town for work at the moment so will have to take a look and think it through a bit more when I get home.
Cheers fellas
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2 minutes ago, Jaydee said:
Depending on what exhaust you use and its clearance, slingshot 11, bandit 12 are front mounting. Just make sure you get the oil pick ups for whatever sump you do use. And possibly the oil strainer too as some are round and other are oval depending on sump profile.
Thanks Jaydee. Engine has turbo so no exhaust to contend with.
Anything special to do with the oil pressure relief valve in the 1052 oil pan? The one with a spring and a cup that’s a bypass for the cooler.
Does it have to be swapped over to new pan?-
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Which sump should I look for that has the oil cooler lines connections on the front rather than the bottom.
Its for a 1052 engine.
Currently they connect on the bottom of the original 1052 sump but I am planning on lowering the bike and I don’t like the idea of oil lines being the lowest point.
Tia
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Hey guys,
Would anyone have any knowledge of these RC Components rims?
Was told they are from 89 750.
Front rim is stamped 2450
Rear rim is stamped 2455DR
Front has 320mm discs with very little offset
Rear has 244.5mm disc
sprocket mounting holes are 6 x 70mm centre to centre
Google turned up up nothing.
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Finally!! Was able to get this thing in to a ridable state. Been a long 6 years and a few hurdles along the way. Thanks to everyone in this group who chimed and offered help along the way.
Now time to book a dyno session to get the mapping sorted out and the it’s time for the strip and see what comes of this.
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Just now, clivegto said:
Yea the dot head has the steepest in flow but a small combustion chamber but the same size valves as the 1100 & 1200.
Might not fit the slabby then. Already quite tight with throttle bodies and plenum.
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Makes sense. A lot of work for nothing really in regards to squish.
How different are the ports between a G head and a dot head? Is it just a steeper angle on the dot? -
Sitting in the airport and browsing the archives and had a thought. With the DOT head having better ports, larger squish and higher compression, has anyone used one for a boosted application?
I have a selection of different thickness head and base gaskets so compression can be lowered accordingly. Just wonder if the ports and squish would be an added benefit?
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9 minutes ago, Maggotbreath said:
Right on!!! Post up a vid of the pressure test!
I will try.
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So, I epoxied up the galleries in the holes where the top end oiler connects. Let cure overnight and reassembled everything last night.
Obviously drilling, tapping and installing a grub screw is the preferred route but I don’t feel like pulling the head right now.I left the cams and rockers in there that were squeaking. Fired up engine and as soon as oil got to the head, everything quieted down. No more squeak. Let run for a few minutes, shut it down, started again and she was still quiet and smooth. It was late and wife was already banging on the floor (her bed is directly above the lift where the bike is. Lol) so left it for the night.
Did a quick fire up this morning from dead nuts cold and everything sounded happy still.
When I have time to get back in the shop, I’m gonna run it up to temp and get some oil pressure readings.
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On 1/10/2022 at 10:50 AM, 88Katana said:
Yes this is a 90 GSXR motor 1340cc 425 lift intake 380 lift exhaust had the block done at Carolina cycle who told me I needed a top end oiler and would have to remove oil galley jet and plug those holes which I did.upon initial start up had 90psi of oil pressure at the test port APE springs were set to 60lbs of seat pressure, ran the bike minimally in the shop made a couple of test hits and brought it back to the shop to inspect.i took the valve cover off and had knarled up 2intake cam lobes and 2 rockers which were new hard weld from web cam but the exhaust cam and rockers were fine?I'm running brad penn 20/50w oil .
Same thing that baffled me. I was seeing good pressure at the main gallery but the head suffered. Was always lobes and rocker on Cylinder 1 and 2 (furthest away) that got knarled up
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On 1/10/2022 at 8:14 AM, 88Katana said:
I have installed a ward top end oiler on my drag bike have blocked off oil jet galley on the back of the cases but am having oiling issues any idea's would be appreciated
I just finally solved my issue as well. I'm running an 85mm block and the cases had to have the 2 main galleries feeding the head through the studs blocked. (dry block) I struggled as well with oiling issues to the top end even tho I fitted a top end oiler which was fed from the main gallery on the right side.
The main issue when doing this is you have to also block the original galleries in the head!! No one ever mentions this when talking about dry blocking. So, if you look in the holes where the top end oiler connects, at the end of the threads just in front of the rocker shafts you will see the gallery. Theres one in each hole so 4 in total. My oil was just draining right back to the block! 5 effing years and 4 sets of cams later for me to find this! Big thanks to @Maggotbreathfor chiming in on my other thread and offering another perspective to the issue. He eventually linked another thread (which I actually read a few times but missed the part about blocking the head galleries) and thats the only place I have EVER seen it mentioned.
Pic shows the hole I'm referencing. Ideally, You want to drill and tap to block with a grub screw. It can be done from the bottom via the stud hole. I am not wanting to pull my engine/head at this time so I epoxied them from the top. Temporary fix to A) confirm oil pressure and volume to head is now good and B) I'm building up a spare head with larger valves etc.
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Ok. Double pissed. Ha! Ive read that thread before but cut it short because of the dribble in between.
Well, looks like I know what I have to do. I think that’s the only place that it’s mentioned about blocking the ports in the head. I don’t recall ever reading that before. It’s commonly mentioned that you have to block the ports in the cases. I just assumed the aftermarket block didn’t even allow for oil.
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7 minutes ago, Maggotbreath said:
I don't know George, seems risky. IMHO engine out is the safest way to go.
I have a couple tests going with some defcon.
While I agree it’s somewhat risky, I want to confirm that this is what’s been causing my issues. It will only be temporary anyhow.
I have a couple spare heads here and will probably be purchasing another soon that comes with cams and rockers etc. I’ll modify that one accordingly before install.
Im out of town for work for he next couple days so won’t have access. I am really leaning towards doing the spacer and orings.
I’ll sleep on it for a day or two.
Im still pissed that I’ve gone through 4 sets of cams because of this. Lol
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Well Gord. I think you’re correct. Just did a test. It drains right out. *facepalm*
Theres about 10mm from the end of the top end oiler bolt to the rocker shaft so that gallery is definitely open to the oil feed.
Instead of epoxy, I’m thinking I’ll use a spacer with an oring on either side to seal off that gallery.
Thoughts?
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Just now, Maggotbreath said:
Perhaps ya could test by filling it with light oil? If it drains that it, if not move on.
Or just mod the head oil supply like your planning and test the oil pressure with the larger lines and 90s.
Good point. Will try that and see.
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3 hours ago, Maggotbreath said:
Looks like it's drilled from the bottom up and the top down, head off it is then. Unless I'm barking up the wrong tree.
Definitely drilled from the bottom up. In the top down pic, that’s not the gallery you’re seeing in the cam journal. That’s where the rocker shaft hole lines up.
Im really not wanting to pull the head at this time. That’s a full on engine out.
Im toying with the epoxy idea currently.
When I do pull the head in the future (as I am planning for larger valves etc) I will most definitely address that gallery and block with a grub screw.
It’s funny that I’ve never heard mention of this before. You’re the first to raise this point.
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38 minutes ago, Maggotbreath said:
So maybe that cut is dumping oil out. Pull the cams and grubscrew the feed from the top..
That will be difficult. I have a spare head here that I pulled out to inspect. Can’t access from the top. I’d have to pull the head which I would hate to have to do right now. Lol
With that in mind, I could fill that port with epoxy from the outside through the hole where the top end oiler attaches. Might be worth trying.
pic 3 is from the cam area looking down
Pic 2 is through the end where the top end oiler bolts on.
Pic 1 is from the underside looking up the stud hole.
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1 minute ago, Maggotbreath said:
Did you anneal the gasket and use a sealant on it?
100% yes. Both sides
Big bore turbo Slabby finally saw some track time
in Forced Induction
Posted · Edited by TiZiK
First off, thanks goes out to this group. I e been in and out over the years asking questions and general lurking. You’ve all supplied valuable info over the years.
Went to the strip last Friday for its first shake down run. Bike ran well and I went from a first pass of 16.2 to a best run at 11.03. Mostly due to the fact I was effing terrified to launch properly. Gearing was far too short (15-49 Don’t ask cause I honestly don’t know why lol) Maxed the mph out at 125mph.
Went again last night and grew a pair large enough to launch off the 2 step. Best 60ft of 1.5 and best et of 10.1.
I changed the rear sprocket to 43 as that’s all I could get my hands on. MPH jumped to 134 and then the track fell off.
Heading in the right direction tho.
New sprockets on order and got some data to review. Onwards and upwards.
Looking forward to seeing what she has left in her as I feel I’m just scratching the surface.
Meat and potatoes of the bike are:
-86 gsxr 1100 w. 9mm overbore.
-efi using a Microsquirt
-Holset HY35 turbo
I’m number 354 on the timing slip