TiZiK
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Posts posted by TiZiK
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Hey all;
Just got my new engine installed. After having it idle for a bit to check settings etc, the top end started to squeak. I immediately shut it down!
The engine is an 85mm block. Its been dry blocked and I added a top end oiler kit from Dave at FBM. I checked for oil at the entry to the cam cover from the Y pipe, good oil flow there. However, taking off the banjo bolt (the one from the cam cover) to the top end oiler cam link, oil barely trickles out, hence no oil to the cams.
Before I tear the cam cover off, has anyone experienced this? Any ideas?
Curious as to why theres good oil pressure going into the cam cover, but none coming out
Any help appreciated.
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So went on the road trip today. Decided to pass. They were in rough shape. The blue tank was so rusted the gas cap was just floating. The second tank was rusted out along the seams. They were stored outside, near the saltwater coast. The carbs were fuzzy with corrosion. Every piece of plastic need attention. The list goes on.
There is a shop locally selling one I great shape. Running. Riding. Complete. They're asking 3995 Canadian. It would cost me more than that, plus a few years, to bring this up to snuff.
Ah well.....
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On 19/03/2016 at 1:37 PM, p4ddy said:
Did you drug him.or get him pissed first??
He was in the middle of crushin a few Budweiser. Lol
On 26/03/2016 at 8:25 AM, Maggotbreath said:Jeez haven't been on here enough. That's a awesome machine George, congratulations!
Thanks Gord. It's actually in pretty good shape considering. Might bring it up to snuff and flip it. Wanting one in original condition and colors. Hope all is well with you.
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Ahhh OK. Thanks Chaos.
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The guy is back in town. Have plans to go this mo day to pick them up. Wish me luck. Hopefully they aren't complete turds
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Doing some work on a friend's bike. It's an 89 GSXR 750. He needed a new clutch cable so he ordered up a motion pro one. Turns out it's the wrong one. I looked up the OEM cable and on the parts diagram, it shows the end as the same as the motion pro one.
I attached a pic of the 2. The one i need is on the left. I think someone swapped the sprocket cover at some point hence the different cable.
Can anyone shed some light in this? Need it sorted and out of my garage. Have a pair of RGs coming this weekend.
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5 hours ago, captain chaos said:
here's a pic of my 750L with 1100 engine, for some inspiration.
You had to didn't ya!?!? Lol. I do love the red and black. Also the black and silver. May keep it all black to match the all black slabby. Choices, choices.... Let's see how she checks out mechanically for now.
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2 hours ago, Jocalopse said:
I wonder if there is a difference between North America and England because I pick up an 89 that has USD forks as well, not in the shape this is, but still an '89....
by the way, Hi George, this is JordanHey Jordan!
4 minutes ago, captain chaos said:89 model has shorter hose on rear shock and reservoir mounted behind the sidepanel, 90 bike has longer hose and reservoir mounted visible near rear turn signal. So this could be a 89 bike with usd fitted later, or a 90 bike with rear shock reservoir hidden behind sidepanel.
Either way $400 is fucking cheap. I'm not jealous (much).
Quite possibly true that USDs were swapped at some point. Just check the parts fiche and 89-90 show regular forks. Either way....yay for my score!
10th digit of VIN is a K
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You are holding the throttle wide open during comp test right?
Do yourself a favor, perform a leak down. It'll tell you what's up. If cam timing is off, you'll know. If rings or valves are shit , you'll know. Much better test than a comp test.
Good luck
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When it rains, it pours. Deals that is! While waiting to get my hands on a pair of RG 250s for $800 Canadian, a buddy calls me up with a lead on an 89 GSXR 1100. Says the guy is looking for $1500 or so.
Long story short, go to see the bike, needs tires, chain n sprockets, battery and a carb clean. So I kicked him in the nutzz and stole it for $400! Haha
Looking to get the fairings to original looking. Have a 2mm overbore high comp engine I might swap in. It was late when I got home and it's possible rain today so still need to get out to the shop and give her a good look over.
Smokin deal if I do say so
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It was kind of a rhetorical question. Haha
Waiting for the guy to get back in town. Meanwhile, just scored an 89 Gsxr 1100. Complete and running for $400! Beat that guy up for it. Ha-ha needs the usual stuff tho. Chain, sprockets, tires, battery, carb clean etc but it's all there. Definitely a buy now, think later....
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These 2 RGs are for sale close to me. I'm first in line for when the guy gets back in town. Talking to him, he says the blue one is fully complete, but has a blown bottom end. The second parts bike has a complete engine in unknown condition, but no front end.
What would you do? Buy both for $800 canadian dollars? Or just get the complete one for $500 CAN and rebuild the engine?
I work as a tech at a Suzuki dealer and mostly all parts needed are available, and at a staff discount.
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Good day all. So, seems I overlooked one small item. Well, I noticed it many times but have forgot to address until now. Which of course is right when I am ready for final assembly.
Putting together an 85mm APE big block Slabby 1100. The locating pins (dowels) for the barrels and head are different sizes. The head pins are 11mm and the barrels use ~6mm. What have others done regarding this? Are there custom 11mm-6mm pins available? Do you just omit them (I wouldn't think so)?
I have dry blocked it and also have APE heavy duty head studs.
Thanks
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Finally getting around to finishing the assembly of my 1316cc big bore. I have dry blocked it and had the cylinders oringed. When doing final assembly, should I be using a gasket sealant?
The install sheet from cometic says to use some, but I'm thinking that since its dry blocked and oringed, I may not need it. Just wanted to confirm and see what others have done.
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For mine, I have a Slabby 1100. I have a spare engine that's getting a 1316 cranknup build and a bone stock complete bike. I used the stocker to set up my efi.
ECU - Microsquirt V3 with wideband O2
Ignition - 36-1 trigger wheel, Quadspark module using 2012 GSXR 1000 Stick coils
Fuel - 2003 GSXR 600 throttle bodies. Secondary butterflies removed and holes epoxied up and spaced in the center (appx 10mm) to fit. Seimens DEKA 4s short stalk 60lb/hr injectors. Bosch 044 fuel pump. AEM fuel pressure regulator with 43psi baseline pressure.
So far, all's good on the stock motor. Got a decent baseline tune in. Starts easily and has good throttle response. Almost finished the bigbore engine. Once done, I'll swap it into the chassis and tune further. The efi swap was quite easy actually.
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Yes, change out the orings for the oil drain tubes at the front. Stick with OEM ones. Heard of them leaking with non OEM orings. Bit of a pain if they do leak cause the head has to come off.
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I managed to do it on my slabby. I used a 6" rim from the srad. I had some spacers made up to sleeve down the bearings. Was quite easy actually. Chain and wheel alignment worked out with minimal adjustment.
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I got a new syringe from medical supply place. Figure they'd be the most accurate. Tried again and got 28cc. 3 times. Valve pockets added another 2cc.
Maybe I'll try your technique tonight canamant. Thanks For that.
I'm curious now what the different readings will be.
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Cheers George! (My name as well). Will give another go tonight.
I was using methyl hydrate (alcohol) dyed orange. I don't think it was leaking past valves cause once filled, the level wouldn't drop
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Plexiglass with hole, head slightly tilted, graduated cylinder and a graduated syringe.
Did it twice and came up the same.
Using a CR calculator, 4 cc raises or lowers CR by almost half a point.
Have even tried a different cylinder and got a similar result.
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Hey all;
Been searching around for this and cant seem to come up with anything concrete. Looking to know what others have measured for the CC of the GSXR 1100 G cylinder head?
I know the DOT heads are 22cc. I've seen mention that non-DOT heads are 4cc more. When I measured mine, Im getting ~30cc. Does that sound about right for this head?
Trying to calculate my CR, so I'm assuming accuracy is paramount.
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From the listing from which I purchased.
THIS MODIFIED HIGH PRESSURE OIL RELIEF VALVE IS FOR 1986-1992 GSXR1100 OIL PUMP, AND WILL INCREASEYOUR OIL PRESSURE BY ABOUT 30%, PROVIDING MORE OIL PRESSURE TO YOUR ROD & MAIN BEARINGS, CAM& ROCKER ARMS, AND OIL COOLER. ALSO MOVES MORE OIL THROUGH YOUR OIL FILTER FOR A CLEANER RUNNINGMOTOR. I HAVE BEEN MAKING THESE VALVES FOR 23 YEARS AND THEY WORK GREAT ! ALL THE NEW BIKES BUYHIGHER OIL PRESSURE VALVES AND YOU SHOULD TOO ! CHECK OUT MY OTHER LISTINGS, I ALSO MODIFY A HIGHPRESSURE OIL VALVE FOR THE OIL PAN, FOR ANOTHER 30% INCREASE IN OIL PRESSURE. I USE ONE ON THE OILPUMP FOR STREET USE AND TWO VALVES FOR RACING. IF YOU USE TWO VALVES IN THE MOTOR WITH 10-30 MOTOR OIL,SHOULD IDLE AT ABOUT 120 PSI OF OIL PRESSURE, IT MAY VARY DEPENDING ON THE CONDITION OF YOUR OIL PUMP,AND YOU HAVE TO WARM UP THE MOTOR ONCE IN THE MORNING, AND THEN YOUR GOOD FOR THE WHOLE DAY.ONE PIC IS OF MY VALVE INSTALLED, OIL PUMP NOT FOR SALE. ALL THE MOTORS I BUILT THAT I USED THESE VALVES IN,NEVER SPUN A ROD BEARING -
Because racebike?
Just from what I've found in various articles and threads etc, it helps when you are using stiffer valve springs, higher lift cams etc to decrease the wear on the rockers and cam lobes. Also, if running high boost (which I plan on doing), higher pressure through the bearings can help save them when you introduce much higher cylinder pressures.
I dont know, makes sense to me. Extra insurance.
But thats besides the point... was wondering if anyone has modified their own.
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First off, GREAT to see the site back in all its former glory and then some! Thanks for all the hard work from those involved.
So, I probably should have posted this a night ago before I spent a wad on 2 relief valves already modified for higher pressure.
Question is, how does one go about modifying them for higher pressure? I know that you shim them but I had a good look (and a little pry) at a stock one and it seem that they don't come apart easy. And if I did manage to get it apart, I couldn't see a way of re-assembling without machine work.
Anyone ever done their own?
No Oil to Cams after dryblocking and top end oiler kit install
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Pulled the cam cover. Intake cam is fooked. Exhaust is ok tho. Barely any oil up there.
I'm baffled as to why there's no oil getting through to the cams and rockers. Guess its time to pull the cam and see if I can see more