Devilman

Typically when fitting a different arm, you will fit the linkage that matches it. You should find with a K1 / K2 linkage and bones that things line up ok *Edit* At worst you may have to lose the center-stand and mount the linkage to those, rather than the standard mounting point on the frame, as it lowers the "front end" of the linkage by a couple of inches

Could probably go with a braided earth strap from one of the rear engine mounts up to the battery and it would look fairly clean and tidy Glad you figured out the problem.

OK from what you're describing there, you may also have an earth issue, either in the loom itself, or bad earth between the engine and frame (this is less likely given it spun over when "jumped" to the motor, but still possible. Often times when something cannot get a clean earth, they start "feeding back" through other circuits seeking a path to earth, which can cause interesting behaviour (Remember how old cars would suddenly have the brake lights start flashing if the indicator was on? Same kind problem). Good luck figuring out the problem

If you've tried bridging the 2 big terminals on the starter relay and nothing happened, then you wanna check the heavy cable running from the battery to the relay and the section running from the relay to the motor. Inspect them for any signs of damage or overheating. If you have a jumper cable you can "jump" from the battery to the "battery side" of the starter relay and try the starter button to see if it spins over, if the starter still does not turn, try jumping to the "starter side" of the starter relay and see if it spins over from the button. You're basically checking whether there is a "load fault" with the cable from the battery to relay and then from relay to starter by bypassing them in turn with a "known good" (jumper) cable to try and eliminate the fault

Could also be the wire from the battery to the relay too... Whole circuit needs checking to confirm both continuity and load capability. Sadly continuity test with a multimeter does nothing to prove if the circuit can handle the load of the starter motor.

Obviously first port of call is to check the battery voltage, both unloaded (nothing switched on) and loaded (say, all headlights on, holding down the "pass" button too so you have dip & main beam on at the same time for bigger power draw). Once you know the battery is good, Check the connections at the battery, starter relay and starter end, they may be all corroded and require cleaning for a nice, clean connection with minimal resistance / voltage drop If you still got problems after this, come back to us and we can see what else might be causing issues

Most likely just coincidental. You should see battery voltage on the starter relay terminals, within 0.1 or 0.2v anyway.

@clivegtoGreatly appreciate the pics, you do us honor I assume that's 1052 top and 1127 bottom? or bandit bottom? Seems the 1052 has no chain guide at all in the cover.. Does that mean it also has a different profile to the chain gear on the crank, I would assume so? *Edit* Nevermind, after a bit of parts fiche checking I can see the top is 1052 and the bottom is Bandit. Seems the whole GSXR range uses the idler wheel design while the bandit uses a shoe instead. That would indeed be very tricky to try and swap from one to the other. Looking more at the fiche's the chains are the same from 86-92 on the GSXR's so I see no reason why the 1052 should not be able to fit all the 1127's, but makes me wonder what people do when they stick a Dot head on a bandit?

Aaah interesting stuff.. What's the actual issue / difference with the chain runner? I know the B12 uses a different chain to 1127 but I forget the specifics other than you usually have to swap cam gears if using an R head on a bandit. Also, if the 1127 and B12 covers only fit their respective models (as mentioned in the frankenstein guide) is it purely due to the chain runner being different due to the different chain type?

Indeed it is. I do have a 1052 motor sitting around, and a short-stroke 750 motor which apparently has the same cover as the 1127, so perhaps I could try seeing if my 1052 cover fits the shortstroke 750. Doubt that'll happen any time soon as both motors are buried Would be interesting to know though for future builds.. If the 1052 fits the 1127/750shortstroke it might help with some under-tank space on some builds using the dot head.

Sadly it does not reveal the specific titbit of info I was enquiring about There is unfortunately no mention of the 1052 cam cover in relation to any other possible fitment, although B12 would seem unlikely given that 1127 covers don't fit.

Any idea if the 1052 cam cover can be used on the 1127 / 1200's ? Or did they change the camchain guides and stuff too?

Isn't the rear mount a different diameter on the 750 to the 1100? 8mm/10mm or 10mm/12mm I don't recall

Did you try the K1-K4 shock as mentioned by FBB? Did it also foul the battery box? *Edit* Also possibly, what about something oldskool like the remote res shocks from Slingshots? I've heard with a rebuild / service they can be pretty respectable still these days.

That was also my thinking, since Cali generally has more restrictive emissions regs compared to the rest of the US, but Cali models ran BST36's so definitely not that. Perhaps some jap import spec maybe?

Aaah is it? In that case my previous statement / offer may not be of much use as the subby I have is from a J model.

There's certainly been plenty of attempts made and some have been very successful. Check out the "Forced Induction" forum, fairly sure it also has info on EFI stuff. I have no idea what parts people would run with these days, when I was last looking at the idea (some 10 years ago or more) I picked up a set of K1/K2 thou complete throttlebodies and they seemed to be quite a common choice. Not sure if the later bikes have more of a "downdraft" style to them, given the more compact engine designs with "piggyback" gearboxes and steeper cylinder angles etc.

Depending on where you're located and if the frame you have with the damaged lockstop's is in re-sellable condition, I do have the subby from my 750J (slingshot) which I cut off from the frame as close as I could get to the main frame rails, so has retained most of the "thick bit" that's sleeved inside the subframe tubing If you're interested in it, you could then sell off the "donor" frame you have. Just a thought, as I kept the old subby kicking around in the garage

Looking at parts fiche's etc.. it seems the Cali models came with BST36's still and everywhere else got the BST38's but some had the powerjet circuit disabled, however this was typically done via installation of a #0 jet. All the pipework is would still be present, unlike with your set that is really strange as the float bowls do not even have the "port" the pipe would connect to machined into them.

My vague memory is telling me something about the US model having the same carbs but with the powerjet circuit disabled

The dust seals are shockingly expensive from suzuki, which is a shame as they appear to be shot too Rigged up an improvised "lathe" with water feed for some "Wet and Dry action" to get them polished up nice

Well, I cobbled something together with a couple bits of metal tube, an extension bar and a garden fork that did the trick (Yes I have a carpeted garage, don't laugh ) The inside of these forks is disgusting, the oil was grey and smelt awful.. the amount of sludge and crap on the damper assembly and in the tube makes me think they've never had an oil change in their life! - Which is slightly strange as they do show marks inside from having had someone in there before (spanner marks on the adjuster by the locknut) Is there anything inside the damper assembly that can be damaged with a flush out of say, degreaser (gunk) or even brake cleaner? With regard to bushings, seals etc.. best to go OE Suzuki or are aftermarket stuff fine? Any recommendations on oil? Do people generally still run the stock 10w? (I'm a fairly light chap at barely 10stone if that has any baring on things) Cheers all

Oh nice, that's definitely a piece of info I'll be storing in the brain vault for later It is a really neat solution, even on a naked bike. Although I'm kinda amazed it doesn't get grit blasted and pebble-dashed to death so low down and in direct line of the front tire

Very nice No issues with clearance to the front wheel under heaving braking?

Any idea on the stroke length of the K6 600/750 shock? Also, not sure if the 600 and 750 are definitely the same, they maybe have slightly different springs or damping, as they carry different part numbers.. GSXR600 K6-K7 62100-01H00-163 GSXR750 K6-K7 62100-02H00-163 *Edit* Looks like it may be a slight difference in spring rate. According to Racetech the 600 runs 9.4kg/mm and the 750 runs 9.5kg/mm.