Devilman

If it's anything like drilling the output shaft (which I would have to assume it is) , there is a lot of useful info in this thread... Since they are case-hardened they can be pretty tough going to drill through from my understanding

True indeed, I just wondered if there was a common "go-to" size that people often use, Similarly to how it seems to be fairly commonplace to replace the stock cooler with 19row wide / extra wide.

Aye it's a fair point... if it works, it works Out of interest, what's the typical size (width / rows) used for a head cooler when tuned?

Anything can be made to fit with a big enough hammer

A skimmed DOT head is bonkers in my opinion, they are already such a low profile combustion chamber that when you skim them you can seriously screw up the squish band, not to mention the extra increase in compression which as mentioned above by Gixer1460, will not be great on pump fuel in your part of the world where it's toasty warm

The forks were already in this sorry state when I got them, I just opened them up as I'm pretty sure something is missing or disconnected on the fork with the slack in, but the other fork has a damaged top adjuster also. I ended up punting for one of those cheaper "Laser" fork spring compressor so I can get the top adjuster / cap assembly removed and disassembled to see what's wrong. Pics are always welcome, Cheers

So I decided to pop the top caps off the forks to see if anything looked amiss.... The left fork (the one that has slack in it) certainly looks different to the right, but to be honest I am unsure what part(s) may be missing. The Right fork (which has the mullered / displaced adjuster) seems to have a whole different thing going on... Any idea how to get to the locknut to remove the top cap / adjuster? For reference here is the parts fiche for the 750L forks... Anyone know what might be missing / damaged in mine from the pics?

Yup, I was able to successfully identify the forks earlier with the help of others and some pics from FBB as 750L/M, since they have the separate seal carrier. Now I'm at the stage where I'm going to strip them down and find out what parts are missing / damaged and try to replace... Might have to keep an eye on Eblag for any bent / damaged ones with the top adjusters still in good nick.

So I figure it's about time I stripped these forks down and see what's missing / damaged / needs replacing. Is there any decent guide to stripping / rebuilding USDs? I've not much experience with working on them myself, mostly done RWU stuff. Is it good practice to replace all seals / orings / bushes when working on these, or only replace bushes if they have excess wear? I presume none of the spacers / snap-rings require replacing unless they are obviously damaged? Cheers all

If you pulled on the clutch lever while the sprocket cover was not attached to the bike, you have probably popped the piston out of the clutch slave cylinder. They are just like the pistons in a brake caliper and likewise if you were to pull the brake lever without the calipers on the rotors, you can cause the pistons to pop out or get jammed. I suspect this is the cause of your new leak

Had you refitted the sprocket cover to the bike prior to pulling the lever again?

I had thought about that, it may still be a possibility *if* I was able to find one in really clean condition, but the only ones I've seen thus far look as bad as my frame rail

Potentially, yes. However the amount of crap and rust flakes that were inside the part, combined with the overall condition of the bike, leads me to be more inclined to replace it. Both the drain holes were blocked and the inside is like a crusty horseshoe, the whole bike overall was clearly not well maintained (or even cleaned), with grime and crud caked to it

I must confess I had not bothered to check if the distance between the arms was the same on the 600 and the 1200, I had just kinda assumed the 1200 arm was probably a bit wider at the back Thanks for the info

It's still sitting with the 88 750J stem in it currently. Any ideas offhand of the difference in width required? or shall I start trawling parts fische's to try and figure out the difference in spacers between 600 and 1200? Cheers again Fbob

Looks like I'll have to strip down and rebuild both forks then It's a shame really, as the chrome is really good on the legs, just every other part of them isn't so pretty I'm tempted to drop in an '88 GSXR 750 front-end I have sitting here into it at this point. Honestly this bike is starting to feel a bit like a lost cause / parts cannon, I picked up a B12 swinger to put in it due to the butchery that had been done to fit the banana arm, only to find the 5.5 Wheel I thought I had kicking around was actually another 4.5 Now with needing to get a replacement removeable frame section (mine's rotten), getting the thing media blasted and powder coated and needing to source a B12 rear wheel & sprocket carrier I'm starting to think I should have just thrown a clean B6 arm in there with the wheels I have and be done with it

Yep, this bike had quite a list of terrible engineering decisions, fortunately I chose to rip into it before riding it They had fitted a Banana arm but their choice for "bearing" after chopping down the pivot width, was to wrap a valve spring in alu tape and shove it into the swinger

Well, looks like mine are indeed L/M 750, They have the separate seal housing Unfortunately I seem to be discovering more and more things with concern me with this front end With the wheel out and the forks off the bike, I've found that one of the forks seems to have slack / free-play in it, equal to the distance the on the preload adjuster? I've not messed around with USD's, is this normal / to be expected, or is something indeed wrong? And lastly (for now lol) Is this definitely an L/M bottom yoke and is it possible to tell (visually or with measurements) if the stem is definitely a Bandit stem? The thing is rotating round and round in the bottom yoke like it's sitting in a bearing, it's bizarre. *edit* Pretty sure I figured out wtf is going on with the stem... the only thing holding it in is the lower bearing race

Could possibly incorporate a CO2 backpurge setup so you're flooding the tank with CO2, which is both heavier than air and more importantly, petrol fumes

I spent a few hours looking last night at Eblag listings and similar. 650 and 1250 look totally different design to the earlier bikes, so those are out of the question. 1200 has removeable engine mount also. It does appear as though Mk2 600 (and possibly 1200) are physically the same, at least visually. Cheapest I've found so far that looks in reasonable condition was still like £40 with postage

Quite honestly at this stage I am surprised that nobody has considered making new versions of this part and selling them retail. It's such a common problem with these frames, You'd have though some industrious person would have started making replacements. For clarification, mine *is* a bandit 600, so welded mount etc is fine Me too, but I have neither the inclination nor the patience for all the hassle / drama of re-registering it with a different engine etc...

Cheers Fbob, That helps a lot. I'll take a look in a couple hours when it's light and see if mine have the separate seal section or not. Hopefully won't be too tricky to check, My forks were coated years ago so I guess I will see

According to the Vault, Srad were only 725-730mm in length, Mine are 740, which looks to match up with 750 90->

So, as often seems to be the case, the right-hand (removeable) frame rail on my bandit has started to rot through on the crossbar. Can anyone tell me if the 600 / 1200 / Mk1 / Mk2 / 650 / 1250 are the same or not? Would make trying to locate one in decent condition a little easier Thanks

Thanks, much appreciated Looks like I have the same ones, S2711 L/R