TonyGee
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Posts posted by TonyGee
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i did away with my vacuum tap and fitted another makes manual tap as i preferer them. mines a mk1 but not a %100 sure if the hole spacing is the same ? 34mm. the extension lever will fit after a little bit of filing.
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can you offset both sprockets ? or use a none O ring chain. failing that grinding/cutting the brace !!!!!!! also converting the chain kit too 520 !!!
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looking at the pic's i'd say the exhaust ports are at a steeper angle
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any of you guys got a 750 et with 17" bandit wheel ? just wondering what size sprockets you are using, mines got 17t 45t
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2 minutes ago, SATANSAM said:
Yep! But it's not that easy to find them...Whould you change them from one set of carbs to the other one? I supose it's not a good idea but...
no, best to buy new to be on the safe side.
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at least you've found the problem.
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if you put the carbs in a vice to hold them and fix up a fuel supply you will have a better idea where the fuel is leaking from. a common problem is the float valves not sealing properly.
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16 hours ago, Fazz711 said:
Looking like an 80 or 81.
Expert will be along to give you a better idea
+1
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16 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
I know you didn't! - its the tool that is the problem for what is required. Use by an inexperienced hand could make things worse, and a new set of rings won't cure that! And i've had to re-ring an engine at 35k miles - it had been baby'd all its life before me, smoked on start up but ran ok - it just pissed me off. Bores totally glazed over, glaze busted and new rings = good as gold for another 40k till I sold it.
it just goes to show the people who really over nurse a new engine do more bad than good. i bought a new xs 250 back in 1980 and took it easy for the first few miles till i had a run in with a mod on his scooter, ended up chasing him around town and riding it like i stole it, it had 60 miles on the clock. after that i didn't give a shit but the engine was strong (for a 250) and faster than any other similar bikes.
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bandits can be funny when you change the air filter, try the OEM one and see how it runs.
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i never said anything about honing the bores i just told him the name of the tool as he couldn't remember, and if the mileage is genuine then as i said it shouldn't need any work doing. yeah ideally the compression test should be done with a warm engine. i still think its a carb problem.
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sounds like you have a wire connected in the wrong place ? but checking all the earth points is worth doing.
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this might not go down to well but !!!! i bypass every clutch and side stand switch on every bike ive had, just more to go wrong.
but thats MY personal choice.
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44 minutes ago, SATANSAM said:
Around 36000 miles...Yep I'll do that...I did it with my little Gurls blouse twin a few years ago and changed piston rings, stems, "brushed" the cylinders with that thing you put in a electric screwdriver, grinded valves seats...But this thing is BIG compared with that twin....A bit scary!
I think it's worth doing, such a nice and motor, and the sound of it!
if thats the genuine mileage then it shouldn't need new rings !!!!!! that tool is a honing tool
putting a drop of oil down the bores will tell you if the rings are worn as the compression will come up. but sort out the leak on the other set of carbs first before you start stripping the engine down. i still think its carb related.
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how many miles are on the engine ? if you end up taking the top end off do a leak test on the valves with the head upside down.
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don't give up sam, at the end of the day its just a mechanical object and can be fixed
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to make life easier for you do one cylinder at a time, all you have to do is make sure the high point of the cam lobe is facing away from the valve. then check/adjust the valve clearance.
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number one cylinder is the one on the left as you sit on the bike, so the pic's are correct.
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Just now, SATANSAM said:
Will do T! Must of done it the wrong way round...Cheerz m8!
no problem, good luck. before you do any carb or ignition adjustments an engine must be in good health, if not you are pissing against the wind.
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a new engine will show around 170psi service limit around 120psi. anything below 100psi isn't good. recheck the valve clearances
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are they showing 90psi ? if so thats too low. did you have the throttle wide open when cranking ? and number 3 is higher than the rest so the valve must be ok. i wonder if all the rest are too tight ? i think you need to go back in and recheck them.
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they are their for end float, if it was my engine i'd fit some just for piece of mind.
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note sure what tap is on them but if its the one with 50mm hole spacing you'll struggle.
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ive been messing around with my zuma, the backbone of the frame is quite wide so getting other tanks to fit is a problem unless you take a hammer to the underside !!!!!! i got the small ET tank to fit and also a gs1100L tank, i put together bits i had lying around the shed and ended up with this ??????
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GSX750ES REVS SUPER HIGH AVTER INSTALLING CARBS
in Air Cooled
Posted
make sure they are petrol/ethanol proof