TonyGee
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Posts posted by TonyGee
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5 minutes ago, fab said:
that should make all the difference
lube up the orings before installing them
yep, you can't beat a bit of lube on your ring
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9 minutes ago, wraith said:
Ended up paying £90 for one.
I'm surprised @Hanma-shin has not block this for not being 100% OSS
why would he ? its about a part for an OSS
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5 hours ago, Joseph said:
Did anyone get that first reply ?
yeah i did joseph, ive had a look but can't seem to find any through my bay ????
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good luck
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15 minutes ago, Blubber said:
Try and broaden your seach, seach different countries , even search in different language. ( use google translate for that )
I have recently seen complete units (cowl, headlight and chrome trim) sell for no more than €70 an Eblag Italy.
yeah ive done that blubber, the only ones i could find where in the US for silly money !!!!
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theirs still one on the bay of E if you've got a spare £7.500
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does anyone know if you can get an after market headlight cowl for the ET's ? looks like second hand ones are like hens teeth in the UK , some in the USA but silly money !!!!!
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total length including the hex head is 250mm. 17mm shaft and the fat part is 22mm. the fat part NOT including the hex head is about 40mm long.
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35 minutes ago, Shakey225 said:
Is there also a clutch safety switch? I don't remember one (but it is 30 years since I last owned one of these
) and the wiring diagram in the online manual I found (via a thread on here) doesn't show one...
if theirs a switch and wires going to the clutch lever then it has a switch and needs bypassing.
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3 hours ago, Shakey225 said:
Thanks TonyGee. I tried that this morning and all went well with the bike up on the centre stand. However when I take it off the main stand and it's on its wheels, the bike cuts out when I put it in gear and the s/stand light comes on ?!?
Any thoughts anyone?
probably not related but worth a check, i had the same problem with my B12 cutting out when i put it in gear, i traced the problem to a bad earth. the bandit has a small earth wire that branches off from the main battery earth, it has a spade connector that was corroded once cleaned up all was well in the world. worth checking all your earths anyway just for piece of mind.
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21 minutes ago, wraith said:
Took some thinking on this one as it was about 8 years ago but I was running 15 front 48 rear with cbr1000 (17") rear wheel 530 chain
i bet it wheelied good
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12 minutes ago, Shakey225 said:
Am I right in thinking the two joined wires would then need to be grounded? (I'm doing this on a recently acquires 750ES, haven't had a chance to say hello yet but will do so on a new thread
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no just connect them together on the harness.
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35 minutes ago, Carlitox33 said:
I know this is an old thread... but comes in really handy.
Got my ´89 1100 almost perfectly sync´d, but then cylinder #1 got no fuel, and was not working, so decided to do it again, and took the "total uscrew" path. I tried to sync carbs again, but there is no way in which I can get a smooth idle now.
Is there a way to get a starting point for sync´ing while carbs are on the bike?
Question #2: There is one carb seeping fuel from the drain plug. How can I regulate the float height with the carbs on the bike? Is there any reference I can use..
Yes... you know by now... I completely dislike getting the carbs out!ç
Cheers!
i think a carb strip is in order, if you are not getting fuel to one carb you will never get them balanced
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noooo its too long, it'll never wheelie the same
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the top right gear cluster looks like its out of a shaft drive bike
did they have a gsx1100 g in by chance ?
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58 minutes ago, rerb said:
Or a 1250 either, I wonder if the shop screwed up their labels...
its not even the same as a 600 !!! they have defo fucked up.
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thats not out of a 1200
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yeah but you had help from the minions
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4 minutes ago, Marc clayton said:
Yep seen that, but I’m wanting to know which rod is the right one?
cheers
use the short one first and adjust the worm drive and see how it is. if its too short just pop the other one in and readjust.
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nice paint
i did my old gsxr 11 in candy apple red, loved it. its nice to get noticed.
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yeah it will go in easy.
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i had a similar problem with the 750 et i bought recently, what i do is with the engine running and front brake on, raise the rev's slightly and start to release the clutch till it starts to bite then pull it in again, do it a few times and see if it helps. worked on the ET and is spot on now, and other bikes ive had. don't over do it though.
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1 minute ago, philwright said:
It's a hydraulic clutch and yes the oil was changed at a service just before I bought the bike,i have contacted the previous owner and he had no clutch issues, I'm wondering if the service put the wrong oil in it ,eg. fully synthetic !!
might be worth bleeding the clutch fluid again just in case their is a bit of air in the system.
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4 hours ago, philwright said:
When I engage 1st gear on a cold engine the bike stalls as if the sidestand is down , but I have recently bypassed the switch and checked that 1st gear will engage with the stand down and it does.
So I'm guessing it could be sticking clutch plates, the bike engages gear with no problem when warmed....advice appreciated please.
are you running a cable clutch or hydraulic ?
ET headlight cowl
in Air Cooled
Posted
i might have to shelve this idea for now, its for the zuma project but i do have bandit clocks and headlight that i'll use till i get hold of some. i need et clocks as well so its not gona be a cheap job