Joseph
-
Posts
1,961 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Joseph
-
-
Thanks
Yeah thats exactly what i found. I tacked it all together and slipped it off, then tacked one point on both outer bends and hey presto it didn't slip back on anymore
-
Thanks for your helpful insight.
Many of your questions can be answered by the following :
I don't really know what i'm doing, i've never built exhaust bits before, and it's all tacked because i don't know how to weld so my mate is going to TIG weld for me what i pin together.
I was trying to make some sort of a merger system, and also, i'm really limited in space, if i want to preserve passenger footwell i'm limited in manifold efficiency. (Turbo has been remotely mounted for example, no choice)
As a result i can't buy an off the shelf expensive but guaranteed kit either.
I think i'm just going to copy the one that i pictured earlier in this topic that Dave made for the Ol'Red slabbie, seems the easiest and most compact even if not the best design.
As far as performance goes, this is now thanks to my mods more or less a super big bore 1402cc Bandit engine, if i ever reached the usual 240-250hp that turbo bandits seem to claim, that would translate to a car with a power to weight ratio of 600-625hp/ton. I was projecting getting to the symbolic 500 (same as the Veyron) that would be the 200 hp mark, tbh anything around that would be satisfying enough for a car i've entirely designed and made myself (except real welding and lathe work
)
Pic of the intake side since this has been a long rant :
-
I seem to be having trouble working out how to actually assemble the header. I have literally never done anything like this before.
I've figured what I need in terms of bends and tubes etc, and also the kit that i want to make out of all of the bits, but i'm hitting several walls and it seems that i'm not going the right way (I often don't see the easiest route)
I've had spigots and plates made in stainless :
My plan was to insert my 4 bends cut to suit into these, bolted to the head, and tack the bends together.
So i did that and then it all went to shit because when it comes to just tacking the spigots and tube ends together (from inside the tube, like many headers are made from what i can see)
It goes all sideways, and can no longer be fitted to the head.
I was thinking that using the head as a jig was the general approach ?
I also tacked a bridge over the 4 tubes but that didn't help to prevent them going all over the place
Should i tack the spigots on the pre-cut-to-length bends ? But that seems like it'll distort the bends anyway ?
I obviously need to start all over again, but at least i have a model.
Also not the easiest to cut bends straight down and equally with no tools
although i didn't do too badly
-
Did a little bodgery, i don't usually use files to make stuff cause i'm a lazy git
So these lumps have a PAIR system :
Obviously who cares about that, so i took the caps and went to town :
Result : the oil catch tank
Does that pass inspection @peter1127?
-
2
-
-
-
1 hour ago, TonyGee said:
what does the molasses do Clive, and what is it ?
Black treacle, give or take
-
1
-
-
On 5/29/2024 at 5:08 AM, Upshotknothole said:
I've got a 750W at home, but I'm not at home right now. Currently dealing with a dementia parent and not sure when I'll get home to double check my collection of petcocks. Also really trying to get a bike back on the road here so I can get away for a couple hours at a time and get a break from them.
I noticed that 1100W petcocks look pretty damn similar to slingshot petcocks, and Pingel sells the same kit for all the GSXR 1100s. So do OEM W petcocks fit slingshots? My US 92 750 came with a shitty aftermarket single outlet petcock that is impossible to switch over to reserve while riding, and too many times I've had to pull over to switch it over or ran out of gas because I keep it on reserve constantly now. But looking online, I'm seeing that slingshot and W 750 petcocks are all about the same price, $185 here in the states, and 1100W petcocks are at least $50 cheaper. Like there's still a lot of new old stock sitting on shelves out there.
The petcock O ring seal is the same part for 750-1100 from 1988 to 1998, so that means the base and screw spacing of the petcock is identical
-
Indeed that doesn't look safe at all
-
@peter1127oh that looks very nice
-
1
-
-
That does make sense.
As it stands it's just going to be a rolling chassis for some time still so i can set it up as planned and gauge what pressure(s) i have.
A mate mentioned running the main coolers in a parallel configuration to potentially reduce pressure loss, although that would be at the cost of lower flow ? Might help on the contact time aspect ?
Generally speaking are the oil lines going to the head on the high or low pressure circuit ?
-
Damn
that is a good point
The Manual states that the nominal pressure of the oil system on these lumps should be between 45-85 PSI at 3000 rpm. Weird that there should be such a tolerance gap at a given engine speed ? But thats the figure.
Obviously since i literally have no idea what i'm doing, i have no idea how to work out whether thats good enough or not.
We have OC bikes on here running aftermarket 19 rows + head coolers, but i guess none with 2 mains + head.
Would any (if possible) swapping of oil pump gearing ratio be any good ? Or is it one of those more flow/less pressure things where you basically compromise (didn't i read something about AC GSX750 pump being fitted to AC 1100s for some improvement reason ?)
Dry sump is an ideal solution, yep, but thats a whole can of worms and budget i hadn't planned to cover (and currently again have no idea about how and if i can fit it on this).
Obviously if the choice is between dry sump or a broken engine, i'll have to sort something out
-
Increasing oil capacity does seem like a good idea. Originally on the bike there is a 13 row oil cooler, I have a 14 row cooler/heater for the head and 2 19 row coolers for the front of the car, so that along with the extra plumbing has tripled the cooling capacity.
Not sure whether i can add wings to the sump due to space though, and how much i can pester my mate who welds alloy for me at his job, he's already needed to mod the IC i bought
-
1
-
-
Thanks for the very good explanations. Interesting point on the vent high up from the catch can, i don't remember that being mentioned before.
I think you're right, i may as well just go straight away for the mechanical pump, it's not like they're unavailable for these somewhat less go-to for tuboing engines.
-
Right, i've been working on the header and turbo placement quite some, not many photos to illustrate my attempts but i should get a solid mock up soon
A few more questions while i'm at it
- this air and oil cooled engine will be encased in bodywork, so not much natural airflow going round it.
I have planned more cooling capacity, and while i'm plumbing everything to get it up and running I'm thinking i could maybe fit a (small) oil cooler to the turbo drain line to add a bit of cooling to a hot line of the system ?
Although i'd like a mechanical scavenge pump, for the time being i'm just going to use the classic Facet, maybe cooling the oil before it going through the pump would be good too
- Holset HE221 parts seem rare, i have no idea what to bolt onto the outlet of the compressor to link to the IC ? I ordered a Vband clamp and flange set and was planning on making a simple stainless intake pipe but the clamp doesn't fit, the flange diameters don't match, the Holset seems specific ?
Welding is possible but i think it is better to keep the compressor standard, it makes life easier for future maintenance
- had the oil feed banjo screw threaded to put a restrictor jet in, any suggestions as to what size jet to fit ?
Thanks
-
On that pic, is "pressure reg" a line to the fuel pressure regulator ?
-
On 5/17/2024 at 12:30 PM, fatblokeonbandit said:
yes it was somthing like that, i keep meaning to write all this stuff down, but its too late now as i cant remember my name is dave some days!!
If I remember corrctly, on the same dyno back in 1997/8 ish my 1200 made 98 HP bog standard, with Dot head cams a race can and filter 118hp and with the head and jet kit as well 130 ish?? I think, ??
On here some time ago you mentioned :
(RWHP)
Stock : 98
Sport can, KN, dyno kit : 107
Above with 750 '89 cams : 118
Above with DOT head and full akra : 133
-
1
-
-
On 5/12/2024 at 12:21 AM, wombat258 said:
Don't worry about the head mount - the earlier heads an frames did not have that feature, and it was only added to stiffen the frame a bit.
I though that the 94-95 bikes (which this engine is off) had a slightly lighter frame, part of the weight loss programt that they undertook following the slate of critics they got for the first W bikes ?
If thats the case this engine can fit in any W frame but probably best to weld that up and re tap if it's going back in a mk2 W frame ?
-
On 4/26/2024 at 10:12 AM, Duckndive said:
There's a sticky at top of this section ref carb rubbers
But it says you need BST38 or 40 (both 46mm spigot) rubbers to fit RS36-38.
@DAZ's info is correct, you should use rubbers for 42mm spigots (BST36)
-
It worked well
But that said mine also had the exact same symptoms and top speed. It was a 93 version, i played around with jetting (after finding that the mains on the bike when i got it had been redrilled to around 230 ? )
I put back the manuals size jets and ditched the chink K&N pods for a real airbox and OEM filter, but it never ran right
-
Mine did the same. The solution i found was to sell the bike
-
2
-
-
Nah just the footpegs, i was thinking it might be that some bike had similar dimensions and fitment angle which would enable a swap
-
1
-
-
25 minutes ago, bunk said:
So what exactly is soo undesireable about anti-dive? Yeah im a newb on the subject
I think it's one of those things where if it were any good bikes would still have them ?
I made blanking plates while refitting them, had them laser cut in SS if anyone wants the file
-
1
-
-
Has anyone fitted updated footpegs on the standard OC fitments ? I'm hoping for a plug and play solution.
I know that passenger pegs off the 5PW R1 work plug and play on the back of an ET, cause i did that (might also work on OC ?) maybe front ones can be used ?
Anyways, if anyone has an idea on this topic
-
Yes thats it, i have an idea to make a compact merger setup for a nicer integration of pipes 2 & 3, it adds work and complexity but it could work out ok.
Space is always the issue
Indeed having the turbo just after the manifold exit would be good but not possible here.
GSX1400 engine Turbo project
in Forced Induction
Posted
Ah i should have excavated google images a bit more before starting this item
Number one you put and the NLR seem doable (first one especially) and it may be that the header wouldn't stick out in the way too much, especially if i make those head exit/spigot pipe straight sections slightly shorter
I did consider tilting the engine but then I ended up not doing it for some reason. As it stands i still could but that means a lot of work that i'm not sure i'll find the motivation to accomplish.
Four ? It's actually a 3 wheeler
so no chassis torsion to speak of, compared to a 4 wheeler, on this type of structure.
Stock factory weight of the standard car all filled up is 375kg. I'm guessing 400kg final weight is realistic with all the stuff added (rollcage, bigger diff etc) but i'll get it weighed when it's finished.