gorbys

You can also get license plate bolts with built in leds. I have two of them that I'm putting on my gs

Last round with the starter gas turned out negative for vacuum leaks. Is there something I should try to lubricate on the throttle linkage assembly? I'll have some days off now so I'll look into the matter. I'm thinking rebalancing the carbs. Disconnect the throttle cable and see if that makes it close properly. Degrease and clean linkage and movable parts, lubricate. I assume I might have to revisit needle settings and idle screw adjustments too

I'm not gonna rule out the possibility but to be honest this feels like a mechanical issue. Like if you manage to turn the adjuster to find that "sweetspot" it'll happily sit at 1000-1100 rpms all day until you touch the throttle. Give it a rev and it might settle down again but most times it'll hang at 1600 or 1900 or somewhere in the region. Sometimes it'll sit there for a little while and then come down. It's like the return spring is too weak or there's just some crud or other shit preventing it from closing those last few mikrometers...

Good tip! I'll try that next time. Correct, I've also double checked them recently just to make sure. Speaking of balancing carbs I did try to balance the carbs earlier but that was before I knew about the air leaks. I assume I might need to do that again now if the air leak issue is resolved?

Basically a copy/paste of what I wrote in my thread about intake rubbers but might be better to keep the two issues separate. So I've been having trouble obtaining steady idle as mentioned. Now I can get a steady idle but not a low steady idle. Like I set it at 1100, give it a few revs and now we're at 1900! Or it'll go down to 1100 again and then go lower and eventually die.... Its like there is no in-between and finding that sweet spot is super hard. So in anger while my idle was revving up I stuck my thumbs on the throttle linkage either side and pretty much forced it shut. And voila, low and steady idle... I let go of the linkage and it holds the low idle for a little bit then starts creeping up again. So there is definitely something going on with the linkage/throttle assembly as well... Anyone have some ideas ? It's like it won't stay closed enough

New clamps. Still bottoming out. However, I discovered something today that is also problematic and may have been throwing me off. So I've been having trouble obtaining steady idle as mentioned. Now I can get a steady idle but not a low steady idle. Like I set it at 1100, give it a revup and now we're at 1900! Or it'll go down to 1100 again and then go lower and eventually die.... Its like there is no in-between and finding that sweet spot is super hard. So in anger while my idle was revving up I stuck my thumbs on the throttle linkage either side and pretty much forced it shut. And voila, low and steady idle... I let go of the linkage and it holds the low idle for a little bit then starts creeping up again. So there is definitely something going on with the linkage/throttle assembly as well... Anyone have some ideas?

But the rubbers are brand new(oem suzuki). The clamps are old. So based on what you guys are telling me then the clamps are probably too big then. I'm gonna try order some new ones.

I've read this on another page as well. My oem clips can bottom out, like I can tighten them until both ends touch. Is that correct or are they too big? In my mind it's the latter...

I can only assume, all the ancillaries came in a box along with the engine. The original rubbers where hard as a rock and that's why I bought new ones. Ordered them from wemoto for a GSX1100sz model. Which should be the engine I have. Should they slip on easy or should there be a noticeable resistance? They go on and off both the intake runners and the carbs easily. Thats how I found out, I originally sprayed starter fluid around the flanges and nothing happened so I went around in circles checking everything else, then just for the hell of it I went back again with the starter fluid and properly doused the flanges and after a few seconds the engine died. New hose clamps made it better and for the first time since assembling this bike I could get a mostly stable idle. But the hose clamps I bought are probably doing more harm than good as they're too wide and are squeezing the rubbers off the runners and could potentially tear them

Nope they're original suzuki parts

What concerns me about oem is that I'm using oem now (altough x amount of years old) and they're not making brand new rubbers seal. If I buy new ones will they be any tighter? Could the old ones have stretched?

Gsx1100 engine with hindle exhaust and kn filters. Dynojet kit The rubbers are brand new. That's why I removed the new ones I was concerned that could happen

If I had the chance I'd definitely go restomod. Been wanting to do an es with USD forks and 17" wheels and other stuff ever since I sold my old one

Been having some driveability issues and trouble getting a stable idle and I've traced it down to the hose clamps not being tight enough. (they're screwed in as much as possible but they are really old) So I bought new universal hose clamps but they where to wide to fit in the grooves of the intake rubber and pretty much squeezed the rubbers of the intake pipes. So now I'm wondering if I should look for other narrower type hose clamps or buy new oem ones? I'm just afraid new oem ones aren't gonna clamp down hard enough either... Or could the old ones have stretched over the years and that's why they can't seal my new intake rubbers?

I was planning on doing it, even bought a triggerwheel from arttu. But my megasquirt was fried and noone can repair it so, still running carbs here... thinking about buying a speeduino ecu and a bosch coil module and just run ignition only for a start...

It's the "hose" style

That's a very good guide. I've usually referenced the one on the gs resources website. I did in fact take them all apart again today to see if there was something I had overlooked or something wrong with the pilot circuit. But I didn't find anything special. What I did notice was the float level was a little bit higher than the 22.4mm of the service manual so I lowered it to spec. I also found the clamps on the rubbers weren't fully screwed in so there was a tiny air leak on them all. So with no air leaks, float level a little higher, and the needles raised a couple of notches the bike seems to run well, it doesn't hesitate when opening the throttle, acceleration is fine, transition is fine, cruising is fine. Sound of the Harris 4-1 exhaust is amazing! There is still a tiny(really minute) amount of hesitation/surging at low speed/low throttle (20-40kph) but nowhere near what it initially was. I'm gonna order the specified k&n filters for this DJ kit since I need new ones anyways and maybe it'll help, maybe it won't. Maybe I'll just have to live with it being like this, I've owned other bikes that have behaved this way(suzuki v-twins) and it's not really an issue overall...

Username checks out at least....

Yeah cause I wouldn't have to fuck around with needles and jets and mixture screws if it was on a dyno...... plugs chops are fine, they tell me what I need to know, I have a wideband O2 sensor if need be but for now what is that gonna tell me that I don't already know...

One of the things I'm thinking about

Okay so here's what's going on after today's test ride after installing the dynojet kit: Still lean on the slow circuit. DJ instructions says mix screws should be 2.5t out from seated. I have them at 4 now and it's still stumbling/surging at low throttle sub 3-3500rpm's. Giving it some choke seems to clear it up slightly but not enough to stop it surging completely. Acceleration : Stumbles/slow accel upon opening the throttle until you get higher in the rev range/get on the needle. Cruising at 4-5000rpm: Not surging, stable, plugs show maybe a slight tinge of a light beige. Definately leaner than the tan/brown you would hope to see. Acceleration: it does, but doesn't pull as hard as I would think an 1100 would do. Plug chop at 8k wide open throttle shows again, white plugs. To lean. Following the DJ troubleshooting guide: https://www.suzukicentral.com/threads/official-dynojet-troubleshooting-guide.69659/ A possible solution to the surging would be to raise the needle. And I can always try but how does that fix a problem with the slow circuit /pilot circuit? Is it the tapered design of the DJ needles that allows fuel to enter the venturi? Also every other guide I've read about tuning carbs says to start with the main jet and make sure that's correct before addressing the needle, and lastly the pilot/mix circuit. And it's pretty clear here that the mains are to small if its lean at a wot pull, or is the needle still in play at 8k?

Isn't that more of a thing with the oil cooled gsxr/bandit engines in gs frames?

Here's what I had cut out, the rear ones are a fair bit longer than the stock ones since the engine is shorter. The front ones are almost the same as stock but with the engine side hole higher up to tilt the engine at the correct angle.

I see. Thanks for the information! Hmm, on the gs850 instructions it does say to drill out the hole in the slide with the included drillbit but the air corrector goes in the hole for the main air on the front. Maybe there's different practises I don't know