gorbys

Might be, wasn't any mention of it on the kit I bought.

Yeah wish I knew that before, wasn't mentioned when I bought the kit and didn't come with any instructions or mentions of the fact.

Yeah. Managed to get a second hand one but yeah. It's got the same loose springs so I'm gonna have to do it all again but I'm not changing the studs now. Just swap the springs and weld it up....

Well.... Seems I don't have to worry anymore about this one... Cracked as we pressed in the new studs....

My gut says there's isn't much to do about it, I guess someone could weld it but it would have to be machined afterwards I guess. I can't buy a new one since they're nla and even if I could I couldn't afford it at the moment. If I buy a second hand one there's no guarantee it doesn't have the exact same problems. Do you think it's gonna rattle even with new stiffer springs? I've read about that, I even saw a picture of the thin one on the flying banana website or whatever its called. But mine is thicker than the 2mm quoted on there.

Streetbike. Stock 1074cc engine with pods, exhaust and a dynojet kit. My intentions for it is to ride it and give it a good trashing on the backroads and mountains from time to time

My engine has rattled pretty loud so I started on the process of replacing the clutch basket springs but when I got the cover off and removed the worn springs this is what I was greeted with. Now can I just put it back together with new springs and send it or is this gonna be an issue? I'm bought a set of springs and studs from suzuki performance parts.

Video was just to show it idling stable and not chasing around. I didn't have any other video than this. The pipe extends pretty far into the exhaust system so there shouldn't be a whole lot of fresh air contaminating the results, perhaps when idling but with more exhaust flow it shouldn't be a huge issue. It's a setup many use on the dyno. So long as your aware of the pros and cons of it... I think what's important is that the gauge shows me approximately what's going on as I run through the rev range instead of me trying to guess how this engine "should" behave when I've never even ridden a proper running gsx1100... Anyways I digress, this was supposed to be about the idle I have indeed sprayed around with brake cleaner to try and locate air leaks but have come up empty. Last season I did have issues with that which was down to using the wrong hose clamps, that's sorted now. Ignition was something I looked into but it's hard to set the idle when the manual calls for the idle to be lower than 1500rpm. I know the advance mechanism works as I see the timing marks moving with revs. Can I hold the revs at +2300 and set timing based on the full advance marks? Sidenote: I never got the ignition system for this engine either, so it's running the 8 valve ignition albeit with a Dyna pickup instead of the points. Don't know if this impacts anything.

So my plan this year was to sell my 84 goldwing in order to fund one of my dreambikes. No, not the Rf900, but the zzr1400 or a second gen Hayabusa. Basically something fast that can also tour (with a pillion if need be) However! Those are expensive(around the 100k NOK mark), and I also want to build a garage, so 90's sport bikes popped in to my head and especially the RF seems cheaper(around 30k) than anything comparable and except for the styling which seems divisive there's not a whole lot of negatives it seems? Lack of adjustable suspension up front seems one but can the forks be easily swapped for something like the adjustable SV1000's? Saving a heap of money towards my garage build, fun bike, fast bike... Seems like a win win? Any owners forums I can go poke around in?

It's set to the factory spec

Here's a video of it idling after warmed up https://youtube.com/shorts/w5wMf7T1AMA?feature=share

Assuming my tacho is correct , My gsx1100 engine won't idle below 1500rpm. If I try to set it lower it'll just run for a few seconds before it leans out and die. (observed with a wideband o2 sensor) There's no issues with the idle as long as I set it a bit higher, will happily idle at around 1500 all day long. But not at 1000-1100 as I would like it to be. Engine is a stock 82 gsx1100 with a hindle exhaust, K&N airfilters and dynojet stage 3 kit. I have gone up one size on the pilot jets but I'm still at 3.5 almost 4 turns out on the pilot jet screws so I have ordered the two next sizes up and I'm waiting for those. Any input on what to try or should I not bother anymore with it? Carbs are clean, synced, and no air leaks that I can find.

Chasing a driveability issue on sub 3k rpm/low throttle openings where the bike stutters/surges. Like it's running lean but I went up a size on the pilot jets and it still exibits the same characteristics. I noticed after reinstalling the carbs I had fuel coming out of the interconnecting fuel tubes and I'm wondering if the carbs can suck air through there? It stopped leaking after jiggling the fuel tubes back and forth a little bit but surely it can't be a good sign.... And if those are bad I guess the chokes and pilot screw o rings are probably not pretty good either. And does anyone know any good sources for a o-ring kit or if all the bs carbs use the same size o-rings? I found a comprehensive kit for katana 600 but I have a gsx1100 with the bs34's

Okay. Googled. Seems I have gotten mikuni VM jets and not BS jets. Cases closed.

On the right is the one that was in my carb, marked 47.5. On the left is the new one which is a 50. But the bottom hole is clearly bigger on the old one? Other differences are New ones have 8 small holes on the body vs 6 on the old one. Is this right or have I gotten the wrong jets?

Measured yesterday and from the takeoff point and up to where my horn is mounted (which is where I'll mount the cooler) I'll need about 40-45 cm. So a meter is enough too make both hoses. The adapters and fittings make up a fair amount of cm's too.

Later engines are shorter front to back. I went from a 2valve gs engine to a 4valve gsx and had to make new longer engine mounts for the rear so it would bolt into the gs frame

I can check next week if no one else can do it before then. Send me a PM if so

I plan on having a plug turned its probably gonna be easier than trying to source a efe cover. I need to fix the clutch basket springs and theres still -3C outside so I have the downtime available

Well, I wasn't aware the gsx engine already had ports for an oil cooler. Hence my wording. But since I found that out earlier today I'll be using those ports instead of buying the adapter. That saves me even more money. I don't know about the availability of the EFE oil filter covers but a plug could be easily turned on a lathe.

I found some -8 AN lines leftover from a datsun project that I can make use of along with two 90 degree bends. Money saved! -8 isn't to big is it? I see suzuki performance parts oil cooler kit uses -6 lines. And according to my phones chargin cable 1 meter is enough if you run one line around each side but might be a bit short for one of them if you run both around the same side.

From the oil cooler takeoff behind the block to the oil cooler up front. Is two meters of hose enough for both lines or should I order three. And no i can't measure as I'm away from the bike for the time being. A gs/gsx1100

You can fit most gsx engines in gs frames. It's just a matter of making the appropriate mounts. BTW I didn't have any issues of fitting an exhaust on mine. Gsx Katana exhaust from hindle. But results may vary I guess.

Carb syncing is something I need to do/check again but I'm still waiting on my exhaust muffler to arrive from hindle as I don't fancy doing it with open exhaust in the middle of a crowded neighbourhood... Also I mentioned this issue to the guy I'm dealing with at suzuki performance spares and got this back: "Suzuki seem to have changed/substituted some of their inlet rubber clip part numbers recently and i have seen a similar issue before. they should not bottom out really." So yeah, I probably have the wrong clamps even if they where ordered for my spesific engine.