dupersunc
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Posts posted by dupersunc
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Best order a few sets by the sound of it !
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Have you cut and pasted the text from elsewhere?
The springs are 0.7 kg/mm so very soft.
Depends on use and how you ride.
I would aim for 0.85 max for road use.
They are a early cartridge type. They work quite well, properly sprung and set-up.
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2 hours ago, Captain Chaos said:
'88/'89 has a shorter stroke, is more peaky than the earlier and later oilcooled 750's. The heads are worth a lot of money because of the larger valves. People put them on 1100 lumps to raise compression.
Valves are the same diameter as other 750 and 1100s, stems are longer though.
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44 minutes ago, Lachie04 said:
Thanks for the comments
My concern was on the air locking side really and if it were to happen from time to time while oil would still flow it would be ineffective car guys have lots of comments about it
Any who Merry crimbo
You wont get airlocks. It's a positive pressure pump that will force air out, not like water pump which just gives flow.
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If only there were a website that covered this sort of stuff....
4. 750R 6 box in a 1127 motor
The only hard thing here is to have a hole drilled through the gear box shaft, for the pushrod.
The 750 6 boxes have a single row bearing on the output shaft, and the clutch does
not have a diaphragm spring. So the easiest 1127 engines to put a 6 box in are the ones with a
single row bearing on the output shaft, and no diaphragm clutch, ie. only the GSXF1127 engines.
In these engines the 6 box drops straight in, only the shaft has to be drilled.
Second easy would be an 1127R engine with a diaphragm clutch, but no double row bearing (88-90).
In this case the box would still drop in, but for the clutch one would have to use the inner
clutch parts from a GSXF1127 (with normal springs) and the outer clutch basket from the 1127R
(with a straight cut gear, not helical).
Most work is in a 91/92 1127R where one would have to match the clutch as above + find a
solution for the double row bearing (the solution is actually to turn the double row bearing
inside out, and make a little hole for the small pin).
Of course the shift drum and forks from the 6 box have to be used as well, but they drop in
any 1127 without problems.-
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I would avoid fitting a fan personally. Only helps in slow traffic and hinders flow when pressing on and generating heat.
No fan means it might run slightly hotter in town, but it not going to boil over is it.
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There's CMSNL in Holland too.
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55 minutes ago, neilw said:
My gsx750 ef based project has the stainless steel 4 into 2 headers from one of the oil cooled gsxr models fitted , they fit the ports and clear the sump when installed.
Not sure which one they are from , but can post a pic to see if anyone can identify ghem
@jaycee. Looks like a yes to to the Bandit headers
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17 minutes ago, no class said:
the closest header fitment for that motor would be slab 750 / 1052 …… port spacing and bolt spacing on that motor are different than aircooled ……
have you tried oil cooled headers on one of these engines?
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Can any one shed any light on this.
A freind has just bought back his old gsx750SE Katana pop up , which is thesame engine as the ES. He's skint but needs new headers for it. Would Bandit or similar headers fit?
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Either should be fine. the J/K 750 were shorter stroke and had a deeper V shape sump, so exhausts for those models maty need tweeking to fit. Slabbie, and 750 L/M motors are basically the same when it comes to exhaust fitment.
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12 minutes ago, johnnyboy said:
Thanks, great info - I’m guessing that the 750 J(1987) isn’t a straight fit then… was kinda hoping it would slot in with the wheel etc as I have a whole rear end?
I actually have an 1100 swingarm so that sounds like the best option from what you say, I have an adjustable rear shock so can play with the ride height.
You also say that the 1100 link gives more ride height so good for the 17’’ wheel swap which I’m planning, but then I can’t raise the front to match, unless the 750J forks are longer..? If not it sounds like I’ll be raising the rear more than the front…
The 750j front end works well, straight bolt in.
Works perfectly with a raised rear ride height.
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4 hours ago, johnnyboy said:
Hi all, I’m starting a 7/11 project (7/12 maybe) - which is the best swingarm option in terms of geometry and strength for the 750 slabby frame -
-GSXR750J (inc wheel etc)
-Bandit 1200 swingarm - fits?
-GSXR1100 slabby swingarm
-Slabby 750 swingarm (don’t have one though…)
I also have the bottom link from both a 750 and 1100 slabby to choose from, apparently the 1100 is a better ratio.
The front end will be the whole lot from the 750J donor bike, I assume this is a better option that the 1200 front end (FB suggested 750J option as bandit steering stem longer).
chz750 slabbie arm is the simplest fit. Earlier 85 arms are shorter, the 86-87 arms are the same length as the 1100 slabbie arms.
1100 slabbie link gives more rear ride height, useful with 17"wheels.
1100slabbie arm is slightly more robust, but the geometry is slightly different so will need a longer shock to get decent rear ride height.
Most of the bandit and slingshot arms will fit at the pivot, but they face a different linkage set-up. There is a way you can run these, but I'll leave that to others to explain.
Simplest and most effective setup is the 85 750 arm with 1100 slabbie link, or 750 link with a longer shock.
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Perfect. don't change a thing.
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5 minutes ago, clivegto said:
Have a look at ignitech, @MeanBean49can get a discount on them if you ask nicely
This. Dont waste your money on dynatech. Its last century's tech at a premium price .
You can set the ignitech to what ever advance you want.
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4 hours ago, jonny1bump said:
Thats pretty dam good really.
it's basically the same weight as a K2 GSXR750 in race trim. I think the K2 were 179kg.
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My slabbie 7/11 was 182kg with a few litres a fuel. That was race spec on the scrutineers scales.
Nothing special, all oil cooled suzuki parts.
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I'd 75kg for a 750 and 83kg for an 1100 sans carbs is about right.
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3 minutes ago, Joseph said:
And internet spec sheets, well...
Taken from the same website, both '91 :
750 :
1100 :
hmm...
The 750 is wetter.
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Tight/no clearance.
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I'd be far far happier running the modified SBS pads, and not just because of the price. Modifying pads as you have done is perfectly acceptable. I've done it loads of times on old F1 cars to get modern pad compounds in old caliper designs, all with th blessing of the manufacturer.
There are caveats of course, but what you have done is fine.
Leave the N.o.s pads in their packaging. It's all they are fit for.
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1 hour ago, jonny1bump said:
The point of the 1100 is it torque monster the 750 is rev monster, hence huge difference in red line, hence gearbox has been built to suit. I've seen so many broken 11 gearboxes and snapped dogs off gears myself which was scary so really can't understand why u put weaker gearbox in 11, but peeps do use them on track I personally wouldn't but I understand that can restrict you on certain tracks, depends if racing seriously or just playing too.
Decide where you want your power, choose ya engine and tune and cam to suit.
The correct answer as you know is to tune the knackers off a 1100 motor. The ratios are shit for track work, even for a stock motor, they are proper touring ratios.
The real answer is a 6speed Nova gearbox, but they are a tad spendy. For a mild motor I firmly believe a 750 6spd is worth while, as long as you are prepared for the extra maintenance.
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You fit the 750 gearbox into the 1127 cases, then do a mix and match clutch. No need to use the 750 cases.
6speed conversion is worth while on a race bike, not sure it's worth it on a street bike. They're supposedly a bit fragile with 1127 torque going through them.
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The bandit head will physically fit but the 91 cams wont work, and I believe valves are smaller.
Gsxf head will not work as the cam chain tunnel won't line um properly.
You options are, a 85-87 750 slabby head with matching cams and followers, a 90 750 slingshot head, cams and followers, or a 91 750 head, your cams will work with this.
Anything else will require skilled machining and or welding to work.
Brian
in Trick Frames
Posted
I like the Seat unit. I think this build has a better stance, raising the seat unit has made the difference. I'd have fairng and clips ons too, but that's just me. Look forward to seeing it in action.