dupersunc
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Posts posted by dupersunc
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Modifying alloy wheels used to be a common practice, but since the advent of cheap wider oem wheels its not a common practice any more.
No problem in theory doing it, but you'll need another rear wheel to cut up and donate rim sections. The work won't be cheap.
Concept racing gave done vw car wheels in the past, which were polished finish.
Another option is to go to someone like Taylormade. If there is material in the right place,you can get rim machined off and drill holes to mount a spun alloy rims.
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1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:
Not here for an argument but several Drag racers tried ceramic wheel bearings back in the 90's and 00's. Ceramics are actually harder than steel so a Ceramic ball on a ceramic track should last longer and without requiring lubricant as well. Brad O'Connor did some calcs based on the claims for the bearings and deduced if they were true, a steel bearing should heat up to the equivalent of about 100w ie. you should be able to feel distinct warmth. He never found this to be true in the real world, so draw your own conclusions. They are good bearings and are very low friction but unless you are sponsored would you use them? Probably not!
Steel bearings DO heat up if you push them to the extremes of their operating window ie. machinery spindles rotating at 20k rpm and Land Speed vehicles going mile after mile at V max! These applications must use 'special' greases in correct quantities - they are that fussy!
This. Very much this.
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Would a 2t detonation counter do the job?
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What have you guys done about the chain line? The sprocket on the srad/tl/busa wheels are 10mm further out than bandit.
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8 hours ago, Oilyspanner said:
Just got back from helping my elderly parents. I've just realised that the primary drive will be the same, not changed to 750r - this would make more sense .... 1.565:1 not 1.74:1
15:48 gives, 6th 148mph 1st 58mph at 10800 revs
But Joseph's 16 : 43 looks really good
1st 6.44 mph/1000 revs 69.6mph
6th 16.31 mph/1000revs 176.24 mph at 10,800 revs
You'll do we to pull 176mph anywhere unless you have a very very healthy. motor.
Little point in gearing a oil boiler for much more than 155mph in my experience.
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750 and 1100 primary gear ratios are very different. This is a critical factor.
I've got all the numbers worked out for mine some where, I'll dig them out.
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Cams are likely worn, Second gear is a weakness. Cam chain probably baggy at that age. Rest probably fine.
Fit gsxr cams and new camchain. Enjoy.
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14 hours ago, Serafumi said:
I was thinking , as long as I take measurements and pictures, it shouldn’t be too difficult to get correct .
Your Dads bike was an M model originally wasn't it? Bare in mine the M sub frame is slightly different to earlier subframes.
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Can we discuss delivery dates?
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1 hour ago, Chris12 said:
Who was that then ? I’ve seen the tooling and how it’s done
The guy who Makes tanks for Harris. Showed me the Original tank he was commissioned by Mark to make, Mark decided he wanted to do a "deal" on the agreed price. He was asked to return it.
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4 hours ago, Chris12 said:
Where do you get this shit from ! half of the stories are made up by muppets like you lot haha
Ermm, well the bloke who made the first one. I see he has since made his own, and fair play they look decent. I've also bought stuff off Mark too. I wouldn't rush to again.
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It's an XR55 works f1 frame. Wont have a lot of lock as it's a purpose built race frame so oil cooler clearance on full lock is less of an issue.
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That works.
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13 hours ago, HWB said:
Dup, do you know if other 1000s models have also the same fittings or is it just a k5 thing
I think a similar cooler was used up to 2015.
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34 minutes ago, HWB said:
Isnt that designed for water cooling ?
No. It's a gsxr1000 k5> oil cooler. Takes the same fittings as a slingshot oil cooler, which is handy.
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Yeah, I like the stock coolers. Back in the day they used to run cooler under the seat unit, with a duct in the top of the seat unit. Or run a modern Gsxr1000 cooler in the v of the belly pan.
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Just now, Devilman said:
Aye it's a fair point... if it works, it works
Out of interest, what's the typical size (width / rows) used for a head cooler when tuned?Look at period racebikes. They have as much cooling as they can fit
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If you arent getting detonation the compression ratio isnt anything to worry about.
Head cooler definetly needed though. Bigger the better.
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You need the type that plumbs into the cooling circuit that goes up the back of the block to the cam cover. These feed oil to a bath around the combustion chambers and inlet tracts. With out this you very quickly loose performance.
Cams wear because people don't check the valve clearances or change the oil often enough.
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21 hours ago, BikeJake said:
That was the impression I got, without have even taken the top end apart. I'm building with a gas flowed head Kent cams flat slides aiming for North of 150 bhp, I'm getting the idea a bigger and better oil rad would be a good idea.
Separate cooler on the cylinder head circuit is a must.
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34 minutes ago, fab said:
problem with most other quickshifter brands they dont do them for older bikes
Fit an ignitech cdi and quick shifter works out cheaper than any stand alone qs.
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1 hour ago, Joseph said:
That sounds nice. That's for double cable action and compatible cables readily available ? I'm usually not too bad at finding stuff on the internet but the QA throttle subject has so far eluded me for some reason
Single throttle cable.
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No. I use generic chinese crap marketed for pit bikes.
What do you expect for £15.
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From spa a couple of weeks back. Clip on on the right isnt even attached let alone the brake lever
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Any idea what might have caused this damage?
in Air Cooled
Posted
I'm going to say detonation, if it was foreign object damage it wouldn't be localised to one part of the piston.
The exhaust side is usually where det starts.