dupersunc
-
Posts
2,589 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by dupersunc
-
-
I know a few guys on here race Slabbies. What are your thoughts on frame bracing?
I'm currently collecting parts to build a 1216 powered 750G track/race bike. I'm not entirely convinced it's necessary with modern tyres and suspension, I've seen and ridden badly set-up moderns that handle like the have a hinge in the middle. I believe a lot of woes that in the past were blamed on flexi frames were more down to the limitations of tyres and dampers.
I'd be interested to hear the thoughts of those racing these bikes.
-
5 minutes ago, YoshiJohnny said:
yeah.... it's not a requirement for the oldskool bash though, you can just come and get merry
Am I being groomed?
-
I think the last one I did was Sunday and Monday in season. I guess weekends, especially in July are going to be expensive.
-
Bloody hell it's an expensive do. I'm used to paying @£170 for 2 days at Cadwell. Not sure I can justify paying that much more.
-
I have in my garage, a 750 g frame, tank and race fibre glass, a couple of 1100 motors, a set of lairy cams, a bank of fcr41s, a pair of 750rr wheels, and most of the other bits needed to build a slabbie race bike.
I now also have a target for completion.
-
6
-
-
Most likely, cylinder head, piston and the big end bearing on that cylinder too. Sorry.
-
1
-
-
15-42
in Oil Cooled
I've been running 15/43 gearing on my 7/11m, stock 750 gearing, as I didn't realise 1127 motored gsxrs run 15/48 stock. Doh. Combine with a tall 180/60 rear tyre, I was geared for 180+ mph. I actually liked this gearing on the road, I went every where in 2nd and 3rd, which was good for 134ish mph, and was plenty good enough to keep up with/embarrass all the local hotshots on their 2014 pcp payments.
I only started to wonder about it when I took the bike to Jerez, before Christmas, and was barely getting 4th gear on the back straight :D. Running 14/48 for track now, but probably go back to 15/43 for road use.
-
2
-
-
Eddy current is what you would need to check the rivets.
It's fairly specialised kit, but plenty of people in the aviation industry use it for exactly this sort of job. it wouldn't take long for someone who knows what they're doing to check them out.
-
1
-
-
2 hours ago, dougw said:
Thanks Dunc, currently got 100Nmm front springs and it is a bit harsh, I think this is not helped by the current shimming.
I`ll have to check the spring rate on the Ohlins, as its specced for the 11K and the M arm I have is longer so might be a bit soft ?
if you decide to change the 10.0nmm springs, let me know, they'd be spot on for my current project.
-
I've a 750m which handles well enough do fast group times on track. 95Nmm front springs in standard rebuilt forks, 500lb rear spring on a rebuilt WP shock, sag set, and shorter dog bones to jack up the rear, all the damper setting in the middle of the range. Modern tyres are the biggest improvement.
Wouldn't go any stiffer on the springs for the road, as it's just starting to feel harsh on the ride.
-
2
-
-
Kawasaki ZX9r fit with some very light mods with a file.
-
1
-
-
Fuck me, do you think I'm made of money Mark?
The Dyna Ignition was acquired as part of another deal, so owes me less than bugger all. I'll save that link for future though.
-
Just a bump to see if anyone else has some wisdom on this. I'm getting close to starting on this project.
What sort of compression ratio should I be looking to achieve if I'm running on 98, with a Dyna 2000?
-
-
What they said ^^^
-
Ok, I've been letting this run past me for a while. Get some head space, 'cause this is likely to be several contributory factors.
Thanks for the input. It Helps.
Where I'm at so far is, I'm ruling out the !/2 Kilo on the end of the covers, it might well be contributing, but the other teams that have seen similar failure have not gone there.
Ageing cases, I'm ruling out, 'cause we've had previous engines with deformation after a light crash on the ignition cover that has simply pushed the casing oval. This has stopped the engine, as fitting an ignition backplate was impossible, but no cracking. Suggests that the castings are quite malleable and and as I've pointed out, Aluminium tends to Normalise fairly quickly. It might be subject to creep in operation, but shouldn't be subject to long term fatigue failure unless there's some bit of the cocktail that I'm seriously overlooking.
Thing is Mark, Aluminium does fatigue with use, not age as such but stress cycles. The closer you put the stress to the yield point of the material, the few cycles you will get before you have a fatigue failure. There are all sorts of cryogenic process you can use to reverse the fatigue process, but they probably aren't viable in this case.
How thick are the casing at the base of the other head studs? It may be that there simply isn't enough material there to deal with the loads you are putting through it now., and that area needs some strengthening.
Another thought is that the later oil cooled engines had rubber front mounts. Is the fact that you have solid mounts all round putting extra stress on the casings, from chassis loadings or heat expansion.
-
Fit an Anderson plug to the bike, and have a slave battery which plugs in to start the bike. A small lithium battery should easily last an hour or more if you don't use it for cranking the engine over.
-
Nice one Jay. What happened to all the blingy bits you were collecting for this?
-
1
-
-
I've got a Gsxr1000k1 Ti exhaust on my 7/11m. Need a tweek of the headers by hand to line up with the ports, used with a Danmoto can and link pipe for a bandit 1200, owes mw less than £100. Belly pan needs trimming a little to clear.
Also zx9r after market rear sets fit with a custom linkage rod.
-
3
-
-
I've got a set of Harris zx9r rear sets on my slingshot, just needed a new linkage rod making.
-
What about putting the 750k head on the bandit lump? Supposed to give good power gains I believe
Yes it gives good gains over a standard Bandit1200, mostly from the higher compression I believe, and this was my original plan. But would that give me a better base to build on than the 1100l motor?
-
Cheers for that. Is the 1100l head and bottom end much better than the Bandit
What sort of c.r. should I be aiming for, and what squish?
-
I want to put together a fast road/ track engine for one of my 7/11 projects. I currently have an 1100l motor, 1200 bandit lump, and a 750k motor to use as a base and for parts, plus a set of Kent Suz7 cams. I'll purchase after market pistons, and run 38mm carbs from a 750m initially, and a Micron 4-2-1 exhaust system.
So my questions are what would be the best combination of parts to use from my stash? How big can I go reliably on the over bore? 1216 1277?
I'm looking for top end power, don't mind sacrificing a bit of mid range., I'm used to modern peaky il4s. Don't want to go to the expense of larger valves, but I'm happy to do a bit of head work and clean up the valve throats and combustion cambers, dial in cams etc. etc.
All wisdom from the oldskoolsuzuki crew great full received.
Duncan.
Slabbie frame bracing. Yes or No
in Oil Cooled
Posted
That's good to know, I've got Slingy wheels and a nos R1 shock, which I'll re-spring. The frame I have needs a bit of remedial work, with the Tig, and will get a thorough going over before the build commences. I'm inclined to beef the swing arm up though.