dupersunc
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Posts posted by dupersunc
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750.
1100
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That waterless coolant is nearly as bad as brake fluid to handle, horrid stuff, and doesn't cool any better than water. Only advantage is it doesn't pressurise, so great for masking iffy cooling systems.
Do not like.
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The bearing in the eccentric should be at the bottom.
Does look like a 750 arm. 750G and H arms are same length as a 1100 arm. The mount for the link is beefier on the 1100.
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32 minutes ago, Kamikaze said:
yeah thats what i was going to go for as well Duncan. I wont be pushing anymore than 150-155 out of her. but i keen to see how it performs on track.
How do you find it...?
To be honest I've never really need a slipper on il4 bikes my riding style doesn't need one and I was happy to modulate the clutch lever if I did get any rear locking.
However when I was offered one free to try it seemed silly not to. I do feel it working, I guess it has allowed me to go a bit deeper on the brakes, as it gives little more stability.
I would say it's a nice thing to have, rather than a must have on oil cooled track bikes
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I've got a Sigma after market slipper in my 1216 motor. They are a bit border line in taking the power from 160+ bhp motors but its worked fine for me with 157bhp.
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The squish isn't any different is it? either way adjusting the compression via thicker base or head gaskets fucks your squish anyway.
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2 hours ago, Joseph said:
That they make up for threefold in extra bracing to stop it all flapping about I guess
no bracing on my slabbie fairing.
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Spike builds race fairings, they are very light and well made, but they aren't oem quality.
He will make heavier road spec stuff if you ask, it does cost a little more, but most racers are happy with cheap and light.
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Pretty sure Cregnybaa uses the suzuki box.
Classic team Suzuki do for definite use the Nova box..
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Just now, wraith said:
Why don't people just changed the sprocket size for the track they are running on like the old GP racers did, didn't see them changing complete gear box for one track with short straights and lots of bends they just changed the sprocket gearing.
cheeper, quicker and easier?
They had a better spread of ratio's to start with. The 1100 ratio's are too evenly spaced, big drops between 3rd-4th-5th. A race gear box has bigh gaps between lower gears, and small gaps between the top gears. in the lower gears you are traction/wheelie limited so don't need to keep the bike in the fat part of the power curve, but in the top gears where you need to over come aero drag, you want the gears closer together to when you change up a gear you drop down the revs into a fat part of the power.
Modern 1000cc bikes do 100mph in first 135mph second, but might only be 15mph apart between 5th and 6th.
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1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:
How about using the steel basket from the 1127 engines - maybe more clearance? Still amazed that peeps 'need' to try this in any 1100 ! ! !
The 1100 ratios are shit for track work. They are touring ratios.
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The ragged edge fairings pictured, may possibly be cribbed from the airtech ones, not via a member on here...
You won't fit them to an 1100 with above yoke clip ons, even less so with clip ons that are raised too. You will either have to fit under yoke clip ons, or cut the top fairing about to clear the raised bars.
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1 hour ago, Gehr said:
Thanks, but the 1st generation GSX-R1100 is a 1052cc which is not listed anywhere in that post.
Yup, I already scanned through this website's archives & there is nothing listed I could find.
Same deal, 1052 or 1127. Ok I know the primary is differnt from 1052. 1127, but you are already swaping baskets on primaries.
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1 hour ago, Joseph said:
Has anyone done this ?
Because i'm helping a mate do it on his, but, it seems impossible ?
Under tray can't not hit the front tyre, angle of said under tray doesn't allow to line up with the head fairing join line (15cm gap at the rear)
Comparing to photos online i can't see it matching at all
Which fairing are you talking about?
Pics would help.
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51 minutes ago, TonyGee said:
it has 4 stick coils
Glad your paying attention.
Because I'm clearly not.
does point the ignition side though if its 1&4.
Are the coils set up so the resistance is correct for the ignition module? If they arent the current draw may be higher and cause the circumstances uit to over heat.
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The coil for 1&4 is breaking down. Throw away and replace.
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1 hour ago, clivegto said:
Yea think the 750J/K is the smallest frame the other one's I belive are the same size so when fitting a 1100 motor the only true 7/11 is the 750 J/K framed ones.
This.
They are all much of a muchness, The J/k frames are smaller and slightly lighter, though they are all heavy.
The last M frames have few extra bits tacked on for undetray mounts etc. so are very slightly heavier, but the swing arm pivot on them is better.
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Well there's only one way to find out.
Good luck Garry.
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2 hours ago, Joseph said:
Oh and don't bother with any of those magic fluids supposed to improve cooling.
Physics are physics, the most efficient coolant is pure water. But of course, it's freezing and corrosive properties need blocking out, hence using anti freeze.
All those expensive alternatives are just marketing ploys.
With a clean block and good radiator it should be fine. People often blame the initial design of a vehicles cooling system without considering the current condition of it 30 or 40 years down the line.
Water "wetters" that increase the surface area, and water/Glycol mixed 50:50 are both proven to be slightly better at cooling engines than pure water. Unless you are circuit racing where only pure water is allowed, I'd always run a coolant additive, more for the corrosion inhibitors than anything else.
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22 minutes ago, Dezza said:
How will you get it on historic when a declaration has to be made that, to paraphrase, 'there are no major modifications' (ahem) and also it's on a Q plate? They won't do this on Q reg vehicles as Q means date of manufacturure is unclear.
How do you define the original specification.
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30 minutes ago, Kamikaze said:
He has a mould for the W series tanks he presses out and welds together i think as well
He didn't make that... Made by another craftsman who decided he didn't want to deal with Martek.
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28 minutes ago, Kamikaze said:
Yep its a dam shame, cause he has some top class machinery and tank moulds, and he makes some nice kits but like u said, he cant be trusted.
He's only got one tank mould for the Crighton bikes as far as I know.
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https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/archive/index.php/t-125459.html
You have to sign up to see the pictures, but this thread covers a Gk71 coverted in period to run a tuned 810cc gsx750es motor.
Looks a very cool bike.
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Slabside 1100 rear shock
in Oil Cooled
Posted
the linkage isn't interchangeable. If you are struggling making what you have work, buying a WC are and link is unlikely to make things easier