Mouse

Never removed a gsx engine, but on a lot of other bikes i have had to remove the rocker cover to get the engine out, every cm counts. give it a go as nothing to lose for about 10 mins work, but i am sure someone with experience with this bike will be along soon Mouse.

Try your local zuki dealer or Robinsons on 01227 454366 and give them the frame number, should be able to get year, model etc from that as they have done it for me in the past. Not sure why your worried about back tax, put it on straight on sorn or some people might put the date of purchase as a few days before they send the form to swansea

Just my tuppence worth as i am doing similar on my 78 gs750. can you fully turn the sprocket without the chain on or only part of a full turn ??, also what year is the bike as it looks very similar to mine with the pushrod in the same place, but the sprocket nut does not look right, the standard nut is quite slim and there is about 5mm of thread that sticks out after the tab washer is fitted and the nut tightened. Maybe it is the nut that is catching ???, try taking it of and see what happens Hope this helps Mouse

Ermm sorry, no they don't, the 77, 78, and 79 years gs 750 are 27mm id at the bottom and only seem to have gone to 30mm with the 1980 gsx range, but it seems all the gs 1000 range was 30mm from the get go. I think this is partly why I am having so much trouble, but by going rf like you suggested hopefully things will be easier, what also is not helping is the gs750 was fitted with ball bearings as standard so by going to tapered bearings it's a bit of guesswork as to what Hight to go for. Even all balls give three different heights for the bottom bearing 12, 14 or 15mm depending how you search, think i will just go for standard rf bearings when new bottom yoke turns up and see how it goes .

Thanks for that Wraith Found one local to me, will see if he has forks as well.

Unfortunately the Bandit top yoke wont fit the GS stem as the hole is to small, even if the hole was enlarged there is not enough thread to fit the bits (nuts ? ) that hold the bearings in. No, but the GS one is.

Trying to fit a B6 front end into a 78 GS750, it seems a common swop for a gs1000 but i am having problems, wondered if the GS1000 had a longer headstock than my GS 750 bu no its the same. The B6 headstock is 200mm so looks like i need to cut out 20mm for it to work

Thank you for the reply's, helped a lot

Hi Just a quick question does anyone know the length of the headstock on a early gs1000 frame (1978-1980) ish, not Katana, please. Trying to work something out, Thanks, Mouse

Thanks for the link, very useful, think i will follow peoples advice and stick to the automatic one and rebuild it You could be right, but if so I wonder why the chain didn't jump of the sprockets and trash the engine ???

Was hoping for one soon as need to get the engine rebuilt. bit worried though as even N.O.S will be over 40 years old, can one of that age be trusted ???, I know the one i took out of the engine is 20 years and that the bike was dry stored for nearly that long, but that one has small fracture lines in it. Maybe the fractures are due to it drying out as no oil has been circulated, also "new" one's will have been indoors ( I hope) and wrapped in grease paper. Well off to trawl tinternet for a few hours

Sorry Just tried to slip it past you, Promise I won't do it again.

What sort of oil ?????

Hi Thanks for the input, Pretty much spot on, engine has done about 60 thou which seems to be fairly accurate as i had some old mot's, but as my granddad used to say it looks like "it was rode hard and put away wet". This is what i found when i took the block off. So looks like the chain was not under that much tension. Thanks for the link about the spring, didn't realise it could be replaced, when i took the whole unit off it was put in a bag for later examination, so one of them on the shopping list, also going to renew all the other camchain parts but having a sit down now as just found out the price of the rear tensioner, looking at £350 plus

Hi I'm collecting parts to rebuild my 78 GS750 engine and need some advice about the cam chain tensioner. Should I replace the standard automatic one or fit a manual one???, what are the advantages/ disadvantages of both, one thing is the cost of a genuine automatic one (£150 plus ) Also I don't think the last o.e.m one worked that well as when i striped the block there are score marks each side of the cam chain tunnel that look like the chain was flailing about side to side, although that could be down to poor maintenance. Also while I'm on the subject how often should the cam chain be checked/adjusted ???. Thanks Mouse.