nopokewithoutsmoke

Any 1100/1200 engine or complete bike that you buy these days is likely to have had at least one ham fisted fuckwit owner...I'd make the judgement about what to buy after a chat with the seller...if they can tell you what oil is in it, etc. then I reckon it's more likely to be a good buy. Don't forget the 750 motors - a well set up L/M can be a lot of fun....

I might just try some of that Yamaha Carb Cleaner, and carb balancing is definitely on the 'to do' list. Thanks guys

Busa rods are 119.5mm between centres, OC rods are 117mm. Couldn't remember this so googled it. WC1100 rods look better than OC rods...same length I think as well.

I went to Torque Tune years ago - Russ is a top bloke. Honest and knows his stuff.

Thanks for the input.Visual checks and spraying wd40 around the rubbers didn't make any difference. Maybe the revs aren't hanging so badly... I did adjust the pilot screws again so they're now at 3.25 turns out. Seems a little better but difficult to tell. I think I'm just going to get the bike ready for an Mot and see what it's like after a bit of use on the road. I've still got valve clearances and carb balancing to do, but they can wait.

After running it to get it hot a couple of times with lots of mixed rev throttle blipping, throttle response has definitely improved. Revs were hanging a fair bit though so checked the pilot screws and they were all at 2 and 1/2 turns out. I adjusted them to 3 out on the outer cylinders and 2 and 3/4 on the middle cylinders (as per Haynes). Definitely better again but revs still take too long to drop from 3k to idle. What next do you think???

Kibblewhite?

Just a thought, but I wonder how 30 year old standard Suzuki valve springs would measure up against a new set of the same springs?

I've just spent a fair amount of time trying to sort the carbs on my 600 Srad. My advice would be: make sure you've got somewhere clean to work with plenty of light, a torch, magnifying glass (yes, really), clean containers for carb parts, penetrating spray for stuck screws and jets, carb cleaner, brake cleaner, nylon wires for poking down brass jets, take photos along the way, ask if you're not sure, and don't rush. Oh and it might be worth checking that your tank isn't rusty too... Good luck!

Made some progress. Carbs came apart relatively easily with no evidence of previous bodgery. Was expecting more crud in there but the bowls were quite clean. The pilot jets however needed a good soak and a poke through with nylon wire. I didn't change any of the settings, just reassembled the carbs after cleaning, and it now idles happily on all 4 cylinders! Throttle response is crap and it's reluctant to rev but it's a starting point...

Thanks for the quick responses. It does indeed have coil on plug thingies, one for each cylinder. I swapped them over, no change. I swapped plugs over, no change. i didn't want to get into the carbs until I'd checked the ignition side. Rather be methodical than chuck a load of carb cleaner in and hope for the best... I think Gixer1460 is going to be right about them being full of crud.

Hello chaps and chapesses. Just joined up and I really hope you can help with my 600 SRAD that's running on 3 cylinders... I 've posted on say what now!?.com but it's very quiet there... here's the story so far... 1.) Any help and advice appreciated... 600 SRAD, been in storage for 3 years with all fluids drained. History/issues prior to this unknown. With fresh fuel, oil, water and battery it runs but only on 3 cylinders. It idles at 1200rpm with the choke off, but no.1 header doesn't get hot. With a small amount of throttle the revs will rise to 3000rpm but hang there before slowly dropping back down. Plugs are new CR8E's to help avoid fouling while it's idling. I've swapped coils over between cylinders but no.1 stays cold. I haven't touched the carbs. Battery voltage is 13.1V and rises to 14.6V with engine idling. What would you do next? 2.) Checked continuity in the green wire from the ECU to the coil on no.1 cylinder, and the white/purple wire between 1 and 4. Both checked out ok. Swapped spark plugs between 1 and 2. No change in how it runs. Carb inspection and compression test next... Advice and suggestions welcome!