Gixer1460

I assume the carbs have been tuned / jetted / modified to work with the K&N's and the free flow exhaust? If not, then no wonder it won't run correctly. As these are slide carbs, they are a bit easier to tune IMO as operation is directly related to slide lift not airflow so much like CV's. Unfortunately 30 odd years ago, carb 'guru's' were all around, nowadays not so but some are still around with dyno's - necessary IMO.

Wasn't really talking carb problem - more eluding to a Facet Cube pump's capacity to make 300hp reliably? Might manage for a few seconds but sustained ?

Interesting Clive. I know that when Sean / Woody were running the Spondon Kat Turbo with a HSR 45 / 48, they used to experience fuel starvation ie. bowl got drained faster than fuel could be pumped. That was using one of the tubular Red / Gold top Facet pumps. I believe the cure / fix was a drilled out float valve + higher pressure (3+ or more psi) such that flow was excessive at idle so engine had to be revved (as if ridden by a right tool) constantly to avoid flooding stall - once launched, full flow was enough to stop a lean condition. I think if any decent amount of boost is likely ( at least with a blow through) it might be better to use a EFI type pump with decent FPR and tank return. If a draw through with multiple carbs then maybe a Red / Gold top Facet may work ok.

But these don't work like that - a lamp lights behind a translucent number indicating selected gear.

Exactly !

They were never digital - it relied on a 5 or 6 position gear switch with 5 or 6 wires to individual bulbs in the dash indicator - pure analogue operation. 'Clunky' but they worked until a bulb blows LOL!

Eh? Normally single output splits via Tee to two inlets. With a cooler, single output goes to cooler, from cooler to Tee then two inlets! All parts in that kit are required.

First line - that shouldn't happen! Even if the pitot was open, the engine should idle - badly, but it should idle as there is no significant boost at idle. Second line - sounds electrical with those symptoms - something heating up to a failure point - cools down and it works again.

Unlikely to find LEDs in that pattern! Could make something with a separate LEDs + resistors but bit of a pita when correct types are available?

How about - https://bepltd.com/products/6305-nr-c3-25x62x17mm-timken-single-row-deep-groove-ball-bearing?country=GB&currency=GBP&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google%2Bshopping&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAtsa9BhAKEiwAUZAszSebeOJTsxwtAj_SEl2wxieECebne1cuJKi0ikBzIZH4zw6UlIKJihoCG4cQAvD_BwE It has a groove for a snap ring - is it in correct location? I think the anti rotation pin is a bit over-rated especially if bearing glue is used!

If its all working correctly the pitot air boost will equal the intake boost over the fuel so std or slightly richer jetting should be good - if you have a AFR meter then aim for 12.5:1 on boost. If you have to go richer than that - in my opinion - something in the build / cooling / set-up is wrong! If you had a dialled in, DJ stg 3 (for example) running NA, it will work with Boost for a ballpark tune.

Appalogies - still a totally different engine and interference comments still apply

NO! - GSX750 has plain bearing crank, 1000 & 1100 have roller / ball bearing cranks so totally incompatible + stroke on 1100 will no doubt catch on the cases!

Anything up to 3 thou is considered reasonable for an interference fit, obviously the bigger you go, the more expansion / shrinkage required. And bear in mind this is all before finished boring / honing is carried out - installing finished sleeves is a No - No (although i'm sure some people have done it!)

You should obviously be aware of buying without getting the V5 especially from a breaker! If you get an HPI check based on the frame number, this will give the Reg. No. and other history . . . . . . then you can get the V5 but be aware if the bike has been off the road for any decent period the DVLA may ask to see pictures of the bike in a complete state or ask to inspect it, so to prove you aren't just trying to register a plate and ring a stolen bike! Of course it could be stolen - but that's the risk you took buying it !