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Posts posted by jonny1bump
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I got to agree that looks awful.
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That's nice and healthy.
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Yes you make a spacer bit like lock up clutch type.
Or you just go complete AWOL and come up with something totally different.
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Keeps you busy.
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Remember to reverse the drill lol.
I wouldn't use a hand drill thou.
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I had to do mates carb 3 good and one stuck solid ? had to drill on mill what a pain very time consuming. Can't even use easy out as brass spreads and makes matters worse. Just have to drill drill and drill some more in increments. Bad enough doing your own let alone getting talked into doing someone else's. Won't be doing that again
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Yes there is few sets left I believe.
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Or clutch basket notched from the plates
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A shim won't hold needles square.
The original plastic spacers would still rotate and wear out with that idea.
Your right about mill and to be fair as my mill is manual I sweet talked a friend who has cnc to make loads at real cheap rate to help the members of this forum. I'm sure we got some left, I would just need to deburr which won't take long.
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Most na 1100s powers tailing off at 10, unless got revvy cams.
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The dynajet kit emulsion go oval in no time at all this gives a low end bog.
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Nice frame.
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Limiter should be 10500
Chuck stage 3 in bin and run airbox you wont believe how good it can be.
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When drilling plastic it can bite hard and pull itself into drill especially if someone decides to use a twist drill.
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On 7/22/2019 at 6:55 PM, minipower said:
Since I want to set up my carbs I fist need to get them upo to spec.
This modification is on my to-do list.
But I have to ask, why not drill the slide so it has a flat bottom?
Fil the bottom up with a 2mm spacer and the needle sits straight.
Best regards,
Minipower
How do you propose to drill slide accurately.
You need to be careful to do this and to advise peeps on here to do that I feel is tad dangerous.
1. You need to clamp slide well, and clock it up square, it's only plastic remember.
2. You would have use very sharp flat bottom drill, or end mill, which most on here will not have.
3. You need to use mill really so you can control depth accurately too.
4. Any variation between slides will alter carb settings on very sensitive 40 mm carbs.
Or use a CNC spacer which all same thickness and drop straight in.
Complete no brainer really, I personally would not risk scrapping a slide if your not careful but you certainly should not suggest this to peeps on here who listen to our advice and take it verbatim.
Jon.
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On 6/30/2019 at 9:35 PM, Paulm said:
Any more takers please?
Paul I've got to help a house move but wondering if can get out of Sunday. What time do you need to be there by.
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3 hours ago, Duckndive said:
when I put the slider clutch in I split the front callipers to individual cylinders the one that was cable tied to the forks is normaly on the l/hand side and is used for the burnout as holding the brakes on the R/hand and getting it wound up was a bit of a problem ..
I have to admit thought was rear brake at first. Thought ya going wheelie attempting.
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