homer
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Posts posted by homer
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Yes, float assembly is completely plastic. Have to check if there is a jet. Did not notice them when they were open earlier.
They are indeed very nice bikes. Even with so little power you could have such fun time especially in the cities.
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Few years ago we bought a little bandit for my wife. It was quite badly keeped so it was a cheap buy. Cheap indeed, airbox cover was missing, every bearing was fucked and there was very badly made "modifications" here and there.
Started to overhaul it last year and did the worst faults first. One very odd and annoying is still there. It is very hard to start when the engine is cold.
Done so far:
New plugs
New coils
Ultrasonic clean for the carbs
New seals and misc parts for the carbs
Relay mod for the coils
Stock setup for the carbs
Fuel tap checked
Compression tested the cylinders
Valve clearances
Spark is very strong and plugs are wet after cranking. It starts if I jump start it and after it is warm it starts right away. Any ideas what to check next?
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493 is "the rod"
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They are the same. At least the ones I have had.
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That head must be there from the factory. I cant believe that has come off the cylinder. Did you get a reciepe from the engine guy? Headgasket seems to be original or painted usually aftermarket gaskets dont match your block colour. You should check under the cam cover...
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What springs K1 forks have? 9.5kg? I would go 1kg to stiffer. Efe is quite heavy on the front.
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But as Gixer1460 said paraller wont help cranking speed. Engine needs to turn faster to get better signal. I was wondering is it so bad because stock generator flywheel is deleted. It might balance the crank rotation.
I have a small battery to connect in series so I can test will it help.
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7 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
Two alternatives - 2 batteries parallel connected for 12v - may not improve the cranking, just allow you to do it for longer OR series connected for 24v starting which will really spin it over! If the latter is chosen, then connect all the bike electrics up to the first battery inc. the starter motor thick cable, but run that to the second battery negative post, then run another thick cable from the + to the starter soli and then soli to starter motor. This way the 2nd battery is only included in the circuit when starter is engaged and is isolated from everything else........ it won't be charged but it only gets used for a few seconds so a plug in charge every few weeks ain't a big drama!
Thanks. I was thinking about 24V system but was not sure how to do it. I will try it
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Second battery is a solution but I am not sure how to do it.
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Does anyone have good ideas how to improve cranking. I am having problems with trigger signal when the battery is not fully charged. One long cranking drops the voltage and after that trigger signal is too messy to filter. Engine wont spin fast enough and every power stroke slows its speed.
Starter motor is 5 years old. Should I go up with wire diameter? Starter motor overhaul?Ecu turns off all but fuel pump when cranking. Straight feed to the starter relay from the battery. Lighs off, new lithium battery with 240CCA...
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There must be a difference between model years.
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Mine was originally full faired and it has a steering lock on the side of the headstock
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Pasta carbonara...
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With 1100 wheel you need to sort axle size, disc spacing and if I remember right the disc size is different compared to busa discs.
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That is actually great idea. Just a small battery to keep the ignition running and remote one for starting.
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No I didn't have. Battery were quite back of the tank. Above carbs almost.
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LiFePo4 would be nice but my efe need that more than this one. Have to test it will it be enough.
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Do a box on the table where the battery fits. Cut a same size hole under the tank. Fill the tank with water and weld that thing. Did it once, it was painted tank and only the bottom of the tank needed some paint.
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Want to keep my 7/13 weight low with a tight budget. I have a small and light 12v 3Ah battery and I was wondering will it be enough to crank my bike? It will be a track bike so ignition is only electrical thingy there.
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304 is cheapest one. 316 has some Mo in it so it is acid proof. 321 best for high heat but dont like fast cooling (used for boiler applications). For the headers I would take 304 or 316 those are easily available. 321 is way too fancy.
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If there is some block booking plans please let me know. I have to plan my trip early because I am here in finland. I want to book the track time before anything else
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Fuel injection or carbs, with those numbers all of them are good for both boosted aplications.
Compared to quite common bosch 044 pump: 200l/h @ 5bar
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Btw where I could book some tickets
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Few things to sort for that. First I need to finish my BBW build. I need to sort my summer vacations with my new job. Need an approval from my wife.
I really want to be there.
Gsf 400 starting issues
in Water Cooled, V-Twins, Singles and 2-strokes
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Those tiny o-rings are new and hold nicely. Have to double check everything.