nightrider
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Posts posted by nightrider
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STD spacer and brake hanger work for wheel spacing.
Slabby Rear Disc fits alignment but diameter is too shy.
I think a Slabby brake hanger would work but bolt holes don't align and yes hole diameter is off too.
Suggestions?
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SV650 wheel and GS500 04-09 Sprocket Carrier came in.
Slabby Sprocket fits straight on the GS500 Carrier.
Threw in some bearings to figure out wheel spacing (will fiddle with inner spacer latter)
Pretty close right off the bat.
CB750 K3 spacer for the carrier side seems to be spot on.
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Thanks m8s!
Been looking forever for one of these. I was very eager to make that trade
Three heads, 5 stators w/ rotors and three air boxes for a DOT engine, a 750es engine, 750w rear wheel, 1150es front suspension, an 1100e head w/ cams and valves.
Not too shabby......
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Happily traded some Flying H crap for some superior parts and lumps from the local Flying H guy.
One of the lumps was marked as an 89 GSX750. On closer inspection it has a DOT head.
Hurray I says.
However there isn't any gray paint under the black paint. Is there such a thing as a Teapot DOT?
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a pic would help but by your description and the fact the first 2 digits are 5F i would say they were Mikuni jet needles.
Dyno jets tend to have a radical step down taper and STD jets tend to be more gradual taper.
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If it was running fine when you put the bike away and now it has a problem don't change your settings.
Clean your prime circuits again.
Pull out your prime jets and clean them with Carb or Brake cleaner in a can then blast them with compressed air.
Take note of your current prime screw setting by turning them in and counting the 1/4 turns (each carb might be slightly different) then turn them out to 4 or so turns.
Spray the prime circuit with Carb or Brake Clean and then carefully blast out with compressed air.
Look down venturi (with eye protection) and see if cleaner spray is even or spraying at all. If not, repeat process.
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they all effect 0 - 1/4 turn (including float height) but the best way to think of it is;
Pilot jet mainly governs 0 - 1/8 throttle
Needle Jet mainly governs 1/8 - 1/2 (ish)
Pilot screw mainly governs closed throttle (Obviously)
Unless you have modified your engine or your emulsion tubes (needle jet) are plugged or egged I'd leave them alone.
That's all just stuff to chew on but as Reinhoud points out no one engine has the same fuel air requirements as another so there is no magic number anyone can give you.
Just a starting point.
I could get into how to adjust your pilot screws but in street bikes it's not all that critical and I doubt it's going to solve your problem.
(it's stupid critical in the 2-strk Enduro/Hairscramble world I also live in)
For right now just set them at factory standard (which is a bit lean) or +1/4 turn and move on. Adjust them later when you get your hands on the equipment Reinhound mentions (which is way easier and more accurate then doing it without )
The next quick checks I would do is a warm compression test and the old intake boot test (spay with liquid to see if it effects idle).
That will tell you allot.
Also you need to know were it's lean. FWO? 1/2? 1/4?
That will also help you diagnose the problem
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I run standard paper filters but what ever you do, KEEP the air box!
If memory serves, that carb is a CV carb similar to the ones in the 1100. If so #3 is nonadjustable so you set the rest to that one starting with #4, then #2 and lastly #1. #1 has to be adjusted last being that it's adjuster rides on #2's adjuster (in other words, if you adjust #1 first then adjust #2 you will mess up #1's adjustments). That might be your problem.
Being that you have the US specs I would pull the carbs and verify that you have all the standard jets (if you haven't already)
1.25 to 1.5 turns out sounds like the right base setting for your pilot screws but that is the very last setting to adjust (after balancing) and don't even bother adjusting carbs until the valves have been adjusted.
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Ya, 17/43 makes sense too. Just a hair taller then 15/38 and a bigger coutershaft sprocket is easier on the chain too.
Both offer much, much better range then stock ratio.
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Yes, last digits are color and version/update etc delineation.
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For static balancing i have a similar method as arnout. I use a piece of safety wire as a feeler gauge and set all the butterflies or slides to that height. Any thin gauge wire will do. Then finish balancing with carb sticks or the like when in the bike.
I use the Motion Pro sticks. Pretty common
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so short legged course and backroads engine then.
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8 hours ago, MeanBean49 said:
Busa pistons give nice low compression and 1216cc. Was running a bandit 1200 head and cams. Motor only made 115bhp on the bemsee dyno but it was hugely grunty and had massive midrange.
The other thing is the low comp keeps the heat generated down, helps stop the power loss problem. Good set of busa pistons are cheap compared to new big bore pistons too.
Hmm I was wondering about that.
I knew low comp was good for turbos and low comp makes 2-strk off road bikes grunt better.
Occurred to me recently that it might work for Short course Roadrace bikes too just haven't heard anything on it.
Anyone know what comp Busa pistons have?
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I have a 530 on my 1150. Standard is the same as the 1100 (630 15/42). Most of the time I run 15/38 for range and 15/42 if I want her to be more punchy. Should be pretty much the same on an 1100. Being I (presumably) have more torque, I would go with a 40T on an 1100. Just my opinion
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It looks to me that the gs500 carrier is a shorter version of the Slabby carrier so I'm going to try a 530 Slabby sprocket.
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So the sprocket for the gs500 hub is a 520. Anyone know which bike's has the 530 that will fit that hub?
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Wellll, the GSX hub diameter is too big for the sv650 wheel. Yes it is skinnier then
my 1150 and LMN hubs so no loss there, I will need it sooner or later on some other project.
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Ya I'm with Gixer1460 on this one. I've pondered on this idea in the past. Sliders wouldn't be a bad idea but anything that would put leverage on that area wouldn't be a good. The OEM fairing mounts that are located there are rubber mounted for a reason.
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Well, I haven't ever had the need to recondition a 750 crank (1052 yes). Are the main journals out of spec?
My local car crank specialist tracked down some Suzuki Samurai shells that worked quite nicely for my 1052 main journals that were out of spec.
However 750 cranks are pretty easy to get hold of threw here, brakers or eblag.
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whoof, that's a lot. Thanks for confirming, wanted to make sure my manual didn't have a typo in it.
Took a bit to get there but i got it sorted
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111 ft-lbs? really?
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Thank you for the offer wraith. I wish I could take you up on that but unfortunately the postage would be too steep as I'm in the states.
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On 3/21/2016 at 0:08 PM, wraith said:
I have used a gaxr750 4.5" rim with a gsx1100f career before with no problem's, seen people put b6 in with standard carrers. The gs500 career help's and the gsx1100f is a bit narrower agane.
Thanks wraith gsx1100f carrier it is then
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13 hours ago, Del said:
You can make the watercooler 38's fit by changing around the inlet rubbers.IIrc you put 1 and 4 inlet rubber in the middle ,then 2 and 3 rubber where 1 & 4 would have been.
I think Oilyspanner remark answers this but if you swap around the rubbers do the ID of the intakes still match up Del? No lips?
Teapot DOT Head?
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Well now that's interesting