Scara

Had no idea such a post would cause anyone pain - Thought the idea was to find cross matching parts is all. Pardon me sir.

So far I have found the following information: Manufacturer Part Number: 31100-06B00, 31100-06B01, 31100-06B02 OEM(s): Mitsuba Family: Mitsuba SM13 Voltage: 12 Condition: New Rotation: CCW Starter Type: PMDD Number of Teeth: 9 Gear OD: 0.465in / 11.8mm Mtg Ear 1 Hole: 6mm Unthreaded Mtg Ear 2 Hole: 6mm Unthreaded References: Mitsuba SM13218 Suzuki 31100-06B00, 31100-06B01, 31100-06B02, 3110019C00, 3110019C01, 3110019C02, 3110019C03 Wilson 71-26-18782 Applications: SUZUKI Motorcycles GSX600F Katana 1988 600cc SUZUKI Motorcycles GSX600F Katana 1989 600cc SUZUKI Motorcycles GSX600F Katana 1990 600cc SUZUKI Motorcycles GSX600F Katana 1991 600cc SUZUKI Motorcycles GSX600F Katana 1992 600cc SUZUKI Motorcycles GSX600F Katana 1993 600cc SUZUKI Motorcycles GSX600F Katana 1994 600cc SUZUKI Motorcycles GSX600F Katana 1995 600cc SUZUKI Motorcycles GSX600F Katana 1996 600cc SUZUKI Motorcycles GSX600F Katana 1997 600cc Suzuki GSX-R1100 1052cc 1986 - 1986 Rev. Code G Suzuki GSX-R1100 1052cc 1986 - 1987 Rev. Code H Suzuki GSX-R1100 1052cc 1986 - 1988 Rev. Code J Suzuki GSX-R750 750cc 1986 - 1987 Rev. Code G Suzuki GSX-R750 750cc 1986 - 1987 Rev. Code H Suzuki GSX-R750RLTD 750cc 1986 - 1986 Rev. Code G

Hello fellas. Noticing there are plenty of matrix charts out there and our forum itself lists a page which discuss' engine parts swaps including 6 speed gear boxes, cylinder heads and alike however is there a page on here which talks about starter motor swaps from one model range to another ? I only ask this considering many of the features in the GSXR 1127 and B12 1157 motors specifically, the part number are not the same but interchangeable. Understanding some are smaller, larger etc and location tabs may be in a different spot, does the 1st gen 1052 fit a category unto themselves here ? Just putting it out there for the betterment of all members...........Discuss..........

GSXR 1100 J running 1109 Wiseco forged pistons. Proflow port and polished Cylinder head - balanced crank Yoshimura ST2 cams and double springs - Kibble White exhaust valves - APE intake valves. Mitsubishi TD05 16G Turbo with 11 psi external wastegate and drain tank. Oil Scavenger pump by Dr. Boost and Davies Craig 7" Thermo fan for oil cooling Ignition System: Dyna 2000 programmable ignition currently set at 4' retard. Ignition Coils: GSXR600 shorty pencil coils 1.2 ohm units - system requires a full 12.5 - 13.1v charge to start bike. Fuel System: Walbro 255lt pump and Malpassi fully adjustable FPR set at 3.5 psi Fueling: BST 34 SS CV Carbs with 42.5 pilots and #95 Main jets giving a perfect AR balance. Innovate AR Gauge - Greddy boost - 2 batteries - 2 fuse boxes for all the necessary crap connected. Workshop tune and road tested only - Barrel Roll to come.

My guess is the bike is flooding from the get go so : I'm going to ask a couple of questions for the OP to answer. WHAT are the correct OEM Size Main Jets that should be in the bike according to the workshop manual ? WHAT was the size of the Main Jets you removed before you started this exercise in fitting the Dynojet kit ? WHAT were the three DJ Main jet sizes you were provided in the kit for your bike ? HAVE you checked and reset your float levels at any time ? If so, what is the float height for each of the carburetors ? THE process to follow for all CV carb set ups which is pretty much fool proof: Check out another page here at OSS on BST40 Mikuni's http://old-skool-suzuki.proboards.com/thread/1239/mikuni-40mm-carbs-bst-bible To properly tune, you MUST: 1. Have selected the BEST main jet for full throttle power (not just a "good" main jet - we mean "the BEST main jet" for power at high rpm). That eliminates the common severe tweaking of the midrange and lower tuning ranges to compensate for a "wrong" main jet. 2. Then - select the BEST needle height / clip position for power at FULL THROTTLE / MIDRANGE after selecting the BEST main jet - That almost eliminates weird problems at cruise caused by tweaked needle heights that were required because the main jet wasn't correct....... 3. Then, adjust the BEST Float Height for BEST FULL THROTTLE / LOW rpm You should be able to apply FULL THROTTLE at LOW RPM in TOP gear without ANY misfire of bogging or stumble....... If you follow that order, you will have: 1. Best topend. 2. Best midrange. 3. Best low rpm power. Then - all you have left is dialing in the pilot circuit - i.e. mixture screw and pilot jet size - That's IT - Don't tweak needle heights and throw away full throttle midrange to try to fix a cruise issue!!! (Unless you want to!) If you reach an impasse in steps 1,2 and 3 in the FULL THROTTLE tuning, STOP!!!!! and call TECH SUPPORT!!! 415 491-5920 and 800 869-0497, ask for TECH SUPPORT - Cheers! Marc FROM FACTORY PRO WEBSITE DIRECT. Look forward to your response to my questions

Cheers for the submissions thus far gents. Keep em coming guys

Naturally try and use a busa wheel that has the under slung caliper to re-use the brake torsion bar if thats your choosing. I re-used the original Rear Caliper and had a modified arm made (painted red in pic) to get round the wider wheel. Also, you will need to change out the inner wheel bearings, and have a couple of spacers made for the wheel carrier, different as the rear axle spindle is smaller. Here are a few shots to help you with your decision KM. This is a 5.5 in an extended JMC swingarm that can accept the Busa wheel, but I chose not to instead using parts I had around the house from previous late model , 2008 and upward builds. I used the 525 link chain as the 530 kept grinding off the inside of the clutch hydraulic cylinder in the primary sprocket cover, plus it gave a wider range of choices in sprocket sizes front and rear. Ive got a 15 / 45 combo currently but will change the rear to a 41 in good time. The spacers will be off set on either side of the rear wheel, and you may have to have a shim spacer made between the caliper and bearing to the right hand side to stop the two parts binding up when you tighten the axle nut to secure everything in place. Make sure to get the rear caliper 'exactly' centered around the rotor, or you will find yourself with issues. Bent rotor, offset brake pull, dragging etc. I discovered this little nugget when working on the front end, and it destroyed 2 perfectly good rotors - able to speak from experience on that one But '01-'05 Bandit 1200 fits for sure. ONLY mod required is cutting a new .550" spacer to go between the wheel bearing and caliper hanger - if you dont want the ball ache - lolz If I can be of any more help, just ask away

Primaries should be no more than 3.1 ohms, secondaries range between 30-40k - If you have a variation out of this range, time for newbies. You can go as low as 2.2 ohms on primaries though, these readings with no leads connected (plug) I have found that unless the cap on the green Dyna coils is properly sealed, you will get short spark to earth quite regularly. I sealed mine with silicone, never looked back, also got graphite leads in 8mm.

I would take carbs off. Check all float levels, check pilot screw positioning check the individual slides, and E Clip positions, paying particular attention to any worn parts that should be refreshed, and balance the carbs. ANY Vacuum issues are going to show up on the gauges. Next ensure when you are setting carbs, you dont run the risk of allowing the engine to get too hot, you would again run the risk of setting it lean again. Everything except checking your exhaust system to me points back to carbs. This whole process shouldn't take more than 3-4 hours if you have the tools in front of you. Do you happen to know when the last time was it had the top end valve clearance done by chance ? Would also run a compression test for shits and giggles regardless of being less than 3000 miles. Prolonged lean running burns out valves, However, that does not account for a shorting CDI system. Do a primary and secondary coil test on each of the Dyna units. Also double check the stator is sending out the correct amount of voltage between idle and 2000 rpm, you never know. If you have full exhaust flow, balanced clean and functional carbs, needles, jets, good emulsion tubes, mains all good, timing is correct and fully operational, no vacuum leaks, it has to start and it has to function. Once you have those elements right, and your timing is spot on, the engine is out of excuses not to operate properly. I have on more than one occasion found If you follow a pattern in your process, akin to the process of elimination - you cannot go wrong and you will find the culprit, I promise. Let us know how you go, would be keen to hear your results. EDIT: Just did a read somewhere on the say what now!? forum US. Guy had a similar issue, turned out to be coils not delivering and over fueling through poor emulsion tubes straight into the exhaust, subsequently burning fuel in gas system, just a thought.