no class
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Posts posted by no class
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I had one on my kat 30 years ago and I seem to recal the brake pedal needed to be adjusted higher ..... footrest passed . the only pain was having to lift your foot off the pedal in order to brake .
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another option perhaps ....you can try contacting Trevor Birrell Racing for some info ? There was a post on here a while ago about thre TBR Katana .... that road race machine made 180hp and 140ft lbs .... quite an achievement for an old tech machine .
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40 minutes ago, Joseph said:
I've been riding it tonight !!!
I took out the clutch, removed the extra washer and put it back to standard
And added an extra steel and ferodo disc
Making it 12+11
And bloody hell it goes
Lifting up in 4th
.... lifting in 4th? how much boost you running ?
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12 minutes ago, wombat258 said:
I went for a Triumph alternator - 45 amps capacity, and charges strong at idle.
you have a link to the mods ? thnx
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once that spacer is in place you should be back in buisness..... make sure you install the spacer correctly...., there is a machined groove to let oill do it’s thing...... if I recall it faces outwards towards the basket .
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15 hours ago, Joseph said:4 hours ago, Joseph said:
Hi
Engine i bought rebuilt. It has been modified (1216, cams, ports) and has been fitted with a 6 speed box from an 88 or 89 7R
I have had the bike on the road, but its no good.
Engine with bike on the stand revs well, holds a normal RPM idle
Since tinkering with it i have found out that it was supplied with
- 4 spring pressure plate clutch basket from F
- 11R discs (so not as many as F, and, there was a steel disc contacting at the bottom of the basket
- 11R clutch plate pushrod
That allowed the bike to ride, but no speed, no actual acceleration but engine revs up then it kinda kicks in, all the symptoms of a worn out clutch.
and now we know why your clutch is not working . the other important issue is that 6 speed gearbox..... they were weak in the stock 1127 conversions.... imagine a 1216 ....
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1 minute ago, no class said:
your pics of the basket in relation to the inner hub make me think that the large washer (#2 in the assembly diagram) behind the basket may be missing ? the thickness of that washer looks like the gap from the pressure plate to friction disc ....
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your pics of the basket in relation to the inner hub make me think that the large washer behind the basket may be missing ?
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2 hours ago, bluedog59 said:
Please tell me that "Timmies" is 1/4 mile from a set of traffic lights on a straight road otherwise having a turbo is a bit of a waste of time.
Timmies is a Canadian institution ..... and we have more than enough straight roads over here
basically fit Europe in 1 province
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On 8/5/2020 at 3:34 PM, redwater said:
Rubbers from b12 gen2 32F0 are dimensions 80-85-80. Is it chance to little stretch to fit it to gsxr600 K1 throttle body (80-80-80) ?
I did not use b12 intakes....I used gsxr 1100 but in different configuration ..... 13110,13110-13140,13140..... the gap is less than 5mm . it’s not a 100% pop in but does not require tb respacing or fuel rail mod ..... I had the parts laying around and gave it a go ......and as you can see they fit on ..... no tie downs or ratchet binders needed . if it helps anyone out .... good.... but yes.... it’s not the “propper” method of course
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they are line bored . assemble the cases dry and use a dial bore gauge to check the holes .
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No . all gsxf 1100 and all gsxr (1127) engine covers will fit the b12 gen1-2 . 1052 (86-88) ignition cover will fit b12 gen1-2 .
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you could probably get a close match 2k paint from a automotive paint vendor... and it will be fuel / solvent resistant .
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those look like stock cast pistons..... not recomended for boosted application.... forged is the way to go . what comp ratio did you achieve ? boost presure ? ignition timing ? fueling ? ......detonation will destroy any piston so you will need to make sure your engine build is done properly .
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my bad..... read only the topic “plenum finish”.... so in this case .... the bare ally will dissipate heat the fastest as any coatings will create a barrier .
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you could look into cerakote or other ceramic coatings to help with the heat issues .
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..... your inner hub will also be notched and possibly need to be replaced ..... as well as the nut .
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1 hour ago, Wagola said:
Anybody out there tried these engine stands ? https://www.newvu.co.uk/classic-bike-parts
they look wobbly....
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....you appear to be the type of person looking for the easy way out..... how about finding a turbo bandit project thread and messaging the builder for all the dimensions you need.....
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...... at least you can use the sticker
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The timing events on a WC engine will vary from from those of an oilboiler.
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they were a glorified ignition advancer / rev limiter box from 30 years ago.... they were junk then and even with the passing of time .... are still junk now .... sorry to burst your bubble but it is what it is .
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programable ? lol .... via dip switches
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the pump housings are from a K6 1000 and K9 1000 .... both are identical bolt patern . the K6 has a 2” recessed bowl .
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Swirl's Harris
in Trick Frames
Posted
Very cool build Clive