Upshotknothole

Turbo is always the answer, but I want to build an NA bike first. Which engine would be the better one to use for the turbo, 1127 or blandit?

Yeah, ideally something with the same diameter forks so I can keep the stock triples.

Currently missing the bolts and I'd like to get something that looks factory.

Last year my 7/11 was stolen and it’s time to build a new GSXR. I’ve got an 1100 rolling project to pull parts from, it currently has I think an M 1127 engine in it, RS38s, and a yosh full duplex. The 750W swing arm is a left over from when I was riding it as an 11/7 while finishing my 7/11, and for the last decade has mainly been a rolling collection of parts. The slabbie is the next one I want to build, it currently has a stock bandit 12 in it, I’ve got a dot head that I could slap on it, as well as a choice of BST38s or the slingshot RS38s. Will probably be using the Yosh I have on my slingshot on it. I’m not even sure if I can fit the BST38s with either head or if I can fit the RS38s with the dot head in that frame. I’m used to slingshots and have never used a bandit motor before, also looking for recommendations on an easy swap to get a braced swing arm in it. It does currently have a mid 2000s GSXR 1K front end on it again. So which combo of parts should I use? I’m used to the lack of bottom end with the RS38s around town, so using them again won’t be a big deal, but I would kinda like to take advantage of all that low end torque.

Recently picked up an old GT250 and I need to replace the bolts that hold the seat to the fender. Anyone have any idea what size they are? Thanks. Also if anyone knows of easy front end swaps, I hate drum brakes.

They're the same. Galfer lists the same part numbers for the slingshots and all of the W 1100s.

I'm running those same filters on the same carbs. When I looked up the cleaning/oiling kits from ramair, I found this. Ramair filters owe much of their dirt retaining properties to the unique advanced polymer treatment with which they are impregnated during manufacture. They can be given a new lease of life when they become heavily soiled by cleaning them thoroughly with Ramair polymer solvent cleaner and applying fresh Treatment to the foam filter material. So I'm not gonna worry about them until I need to clean them.

Hell, guess I should oil mine then.

Mine are dry and I've always ran them dry. But no idea if they're supposed to be oiled or not.

Those 675 wheels are light, but I've seen the front and rear destroyed on friend's bikes when they've hit pot holes on the freeway here. Not really sure how durable they're going to be on an even heavier bike. Also trumpet oem parts and bits are fucking over priced.

That's what I read years ago with the tappet (screw and lock nut) heads was the valve interval, been doing it that way ever since. I always thought it was a bit excessive, but compared to some high tuned dirt bikes with 1K mile valve intervals, I didn't question it too much. What is it supposed to be?

Thanks, not sure if it has a stock ignition or an aftermarket ignition advancer on it currently. I'll make sure it doesn't have an old +5 on it or anything crazy like that.

Thanks, never even thought of pulling the carbs to get the valve cover off the back. So all I need is the following... Dot head Inlets and appropriate O rings for the dot head Head gasket Should I plan on booking dyno time again after I get the head swapped? It was dyno tuned previously when the RS38s were installed. Now I just need to find time to clean the garage and go through that dot head and make sure it's in good shape and start ordering any needed parts.

Considering finally swapping the head on my 91 1100 engine to a dot head I have sitting on a shelf. Anything I need other than a head gasket? Currently have RS38s on the bike, which intakes should I use? I've searched the forum, but other than it being an easy swap, haven't seen what is actually required. My other question is I haven't run a tappet head in years, gotta check them every 3K miles right? Just preparing myself for frequently dropping the engine in my 7/11.

Verify you have spark and fuel? Pull a plug and hold it with the lead on it against the engine while cranking. You should also be able to smell fuel while cranking, or pull a plug and it should be wet. When you checked the valves, did you pull the cams? If the cams are 180 out the engine will turn over fine, but you'll feel it sucking on the exhaust rather than blowing. CDI hooked up?

Depending on carb size, something from another bike should fit. But if one of them broke, you might want to replace all of them before the rest fail. As far as I know, Suzuki is still making the intake boots for now. You might be able to find a used set on that site, though you'll want new gaskets for them.

Your stock shock is way too long. Here's the right rate spring for about EUR 150 shipped. http://www.Eblag.ie/itm/Ohlins-Shock-Spring-01091-24-80-USED-/292008360220?hash=item43fd0df91c:g:jKIAAOSw2xRYhotk Otherwise, buy a new one. Either way, you can sell off your old one after you get them swapped. Yellow springs are always going to get dirty, try some chain cleaner on it.

Yup, blocked off. You'll have a nasty vacuum leak with it open.

The hose coming off the carb boot should go to the vacuum port on the petcock.

No heat shield and no nasty fairings to get in the way either.

Thanks, yeah I think I'll bring a couple sets of jets and then see how it runs and decide along the way if I want to sit at camp drinking beer or changing jets.

I've got another 1100 that will be getting injection and a turbo, this one I'm trying to keep old fashioned. I'll check the current jets and get a size leaner to bring along. Thanks.

In September a mate and I are doing a 3500 mile road trip here in the states that will take us from sea level to around ten thousand feet at the highest point. The bike currently has as far as I know a stock M 1127 engine, RS38s with velocity stacks and Ramair filters, and a full Akro system. Other than a slight stumble on the bottom end that I need to get sorted, the bike runs great, at sea level or close to it. We're only going to be at really high elevation for maybe 2 days out of 10, and I'm trying to decide now if I should start planning on having to swap mains at a campground along the way or if I can lug it and power through for a couple of days in the Rockies.

7/11 with an 89 slingy frame and 05-06 gsxr 1k front end, stock damper off the 1K, but can't say that I've ever noticed it. Forks have been resprung and the rear has a K4 swing arm and a penske shock and it handles great. I've considered swapping the stock with an Ohlins for the bling, but really can't be bothered.

Cheers, I'll start keeping an eye out for K/L heads and M/N cams. Probably still gonna do the dot head swap as a short term boost and wait until over the winter for the 1216. I remember reading years ago that the M/N heads were capable of tossing a shim under high revs, but I'm guessing that's not really an issue on the street.