Jpich85

Thanks 1460 that’s great info there, I thought I’d have to replace studs and have heard there hard to remove and are a little expensive, I think I will do this as it’ll be good to give it a try and learn another part of the bike plus it’ll feel nice hopefully when I ride it that I built the top end and it actually works, hopefully lol. You mentioned about hydro lock? How would I know if I’ve bent a rod? When I was compression testing i put the plugs back in on cylinders that I’d tested and I’m worried now that when I wet tested them I could of caused some damage by adding the oil then putting the plug back in lol

Cheers guys I appreciate your advice, I think I’ll give that a try first and see if it makes any difference, I would like to try and rebuild the top end as it’ll be something new to learn and hopefully I don’t get it wrong lol, if I do rebuild the top end could you tell me what bits will need replacing so I can roughly price it up, You’d need gaskets and piston rings but would I need to buy need head studs and nuts? or can I leave them in the engine if I’m just removing the head? any advice would be great cheers

Thanks mate, I appreciate your advice, I might just give it a try and see if it helps then if it does improve I’ll have to put the rings on the to do list lol, would you leave the oil in or drain it out before I tried adding the oil with the pistons in situ?

I’ve been having a look through the searches and found that due to lack of use the rings can get gummed up and maybe try soaking the cylinders may help, I just wanted to ask what’s best to use to soak the cylinders? Would just petrol be ok? Would I have to drop the oil first?

I’m getting the bike ready for powder coat and thought I’d check the compression of the cylinders before the strip down incase I would need to sort the engine out too before reinstalling it, i warmed to the engine and check the compression they were pretty low so added a little oil to tech cylinder and redone the tests, I got.. cylinder 1 72psi and 110 after the oil Cylinder 2 80psi and 120 after the oil cylinder 3 80psi and 120 after the oil cylinder 4 75psi and 125 after the oil I’m not good with engines but from what I’ve seen in the manual that’s pretty low so I’m guessing I’ll need to do a top end rebuild? i just wanted to check with guys and see what you thought I’d need to do and what else is worth doing while I have the top end stripped for a potential rebuild? I enjoy welding and machining but engines scare me but I’m keen to give it a try if I need to? The bike starts fine and it had I think 28k on the clock, I’ve been building this bike over two years now so if it does need a rebuild then that’s fine as I’m in no rush lol Cheers

Thanks guys I’m sure I searched for the banjos when I did it last year but couldn’t find any. Think they were m16 but I’ll have another search, thanks for pointing that out clivegto I didn’t realise that, seems like this bike has had a mismatch of parts on it from what I can see but I was always going to do a street fighter so I didn’t mind. Thanks r1guy yeah it took a out of bending and heat and trying to make the two half’s the same was tricky lol

I fitted my oil cooler a while ago but after looking over today after not seeing it for a while I thought the an fittings I used to fit the oil lines to the bottom of the engine looked a bit ugly and wondered if anyone else has used any different ones? i remembered I did look for different options but the angled an fittings were all I could find that were the correct thread type to fit, I would like some banjo style ones but couldn’t find any that would fit. what have you guys used to connect the oil lines to the bottom of your engine? I thought I could make an adapter but wasn’t sure if the id of the banjo fittings would be the same as the an fittings?

I need to order a new pilot jet for the Gsxr 750 1990 but can’t remember what size it needs? I can’t get back to the bike for about a week so wanted to ask anyone on here if they knew, the workshop manual states two sizes for different countries I think. cheers

Thanks guys, sorry I just meant a second pipe going from the catch can the the oil filler cap, I thought that any oil would return to the engine but I see now that the oil filler cap pipe is a sort of a breather pipe too then, thanks for those pictures mate gives me a few ideas, is jonny1bumps post easy to find? I think I’ll give it a go, it’s probably not totally needed but it’s fun making stuff so I’ll give it a try

I want to make a oil catch can for my bike and include a breather for the camcover breather in it but I wanted to ask could I run a return pipe from it and put it to the oil filler cap on the engine? So the cam breather would go to a container with a breather on it then a second pipe from the container to the oil filler cap? I think it would be ok but wanted to ask everyone’s advice before I start making it.

Thanks everyone I dig out my old seal and noticed it was made out of a more supple rubber as the new one was quite firm and wouldn’t fit around the caliper body making it stick out further than the piston, I’d previously bought another seal kit from wemoto and ended up using that one as it was more softer and could fit correctly so it’s all sorted now, I just hope the pistons that I bought with the crap seal kit will be ok as I wasn’t too impressed by it seeing as the the seal wouldn’t even fit.

Thanks, this is what they look like, I can only just fit it on the disc with a squeeze, does this look right? Not sure that it is?

I’m assembling my rear caliper on my Gsxr 750 1990 but I’m having trouble seeing how the dust boot seal fits? I’ve tried it a few ways and can’t seem to fit it correctly I don’t think, when I install the pads there’s not enough gap for the caliper to slide on the rear disc as the pads is hitting the boot rubber instead of the piston, just wondered if anyone could help me see how this is fitted or have a picture of how it goes as I can’t find one online anywhere, my hayabusa rear caliper didn’t have one so am a bit stuck on this. cheers

Thanks I’ve ordered some new bearings just incase it was then but I’m pretty sure they are correct but I think I installed the sprocket side bearing first so I might of pressed that in too far maybe, I’ve cleaned away the coating from inside of the swingarm where the chain adjusters go and off the surface I’ve the caliper bracket, not sure if that’s helped but I’ll check when the bearings turn up, other than that I thought maybe the swingarm might of pulled in a bit from welding the brace on but it’s pretty hefty so I’m hoping that’s not the case

Thanks guys, yeah something isn’t right but I don’t know what, unfortunately I can’t get to the bike atm to get any pics but the blokes pretty good and did mask up the bearing areas, I wanted to check tho the installation of the rear wheel bearings? Is there a certain side that has to be pressed right I’m so it bottoms out and then the other side is just pressed in until it’s slightly touching the wheel spacer? Or wouldn’t it make any difference? There’s a tiny bit of play in the spacer between the sprocket hub and wheel? Is that normal or should it be all super tight

I just got my swingarm back from the powder coaters and thought all would go smoothly refitting it but after installing the new rear wheel bearings I couldn’t fit it back in to the swingarm once I fitted the stainless steel chain adjuster things, it just about fits on its own but then I need a few more mm to fit the chain adjusters, I wanted to ask if there was anything I could check on the bearings as in I might not of pressed them in correctly? I pressed the sprocket side in as far as it would go then pressed the rotor side in enough just to touch the spacer that sits in between the two bearings in the wheel, I know I may of added a few mm or so with the powder coat but not that much, before I skim things I just wanted to ask if there was a sequence to installing the rear wheel bearings? cheers

Nice work yantosh, something a bit different and original, love seeing your frame work especially that one you built a while ago, was it tricky building your frame jig? What sort of tolerances did you give yourself making it or did it all have to be bang on?

I’m looking to buy the chain for my bike but I’m not sure on the length I’d need, it’s a standard swingarm and I’ve bought new 530 sprockets for it, I’m thinking 110 links? I binned the old one so don’t have anything to measure off unfortunately, I’m not sure what the stock link length is or if they 530 pitch sprockets. cheers

Thanks everyone that’s great, I’ll check out the simply bearings site and get them off there I think, just wasn’t sure on the quality of thbcem but if you boys are using them then that’s good enough for me

I’m stripping the bike down for powder coating and need to replace some of the swingarm bearings and suspension knuckle bearings, I was going to just buy the original Suzuki ones but wanted to ask if anyone buys there bearings from elsewhere and if so what ones to go for? I’ve seen a few sites that sell bearings but not sure if there up to scratch or if there any good? cheers

Does anyone know where I can buy jets and needles from? My bikes a Gsxr 750 1990 so did they come with the bst38 carbs?

Thanks guys I appreciate your help, I’ll go with your advice then and hopefully won’t be far off, hopefully try and fire her up for the first time this summer since last year, hopefully no other issues crop up lol

I’ve had to end up using some k and n dual pod filters on this build, I know it’s not the best because it’ll mess the carbs up but looks like I have to try and get the carbs set up to use them, I’m not expecting high performance but hopefully I can get it running smooth, has anyone set up there carbs for these filters and what did sort of changes did you make? I’m guessing some bigger main jets but not sure how big and maybe different needle heights? any pointers would be great

Cheers I thought that was the case with just never knew where that oil cap pipe went to so wondered if it was connected to there, think I’ll run a small filter

I’m going to to running pod filters on this build if it ever gets finished so I wondering what to do about the cam cover breather? I’ve seen some people just stick a small filter on the end or run it to a catch can, I’m not sure if you can run it to the oil filler cap? As I’ve seen some bikes with a hose coming off this but not actually sure where it goes? Can you run the cam cover breather straight to the oil filler cap?