luke2152

Thanks

Can I definitely bore standard bandit liners to 81mm? I was talking to someone who knows more than me an he wasn't sure. I'm going to be in USA for a couple of days this month so I'm thinking of buying a set of MTC turbo pistons and saving myself a good chunk of VAT

Ah so it's ok to re-use rings if the gap is in spec. I thought they were 1 time use

Not sure If I'm missing something but if I get a set of used 'busa pistons for £100 + £200 for rings + £150ish for rebore. Or £500 for forged MTC pistons and rings and £150 for rebore. £450 vs £650 seems a no brainer on the new MTC ones unless the 'busa ones are very good.

I've done more or less exactly what you're talking about (project still not finished though). Have a browse through my thread and fire any specific questions my way:

Does the Emtes pump come with the pictured hardware as a sort of diy universal kit? Or a bike specific bolt on? Any idea on price

Is it worth running the oil from the turbo through an oil cooler first to stop the pump getting too hot or are they pretty good at dealing with it (thinking an oil cooled engine must be seeing some high oil temps)

Thanks guys - I've messaged them both

I still have stock b12 diaphragm sprung clutch - will be going for a lock up clutch soon. I think most convert to gsxr1100 clutch and lock up. But I have seen mtc do lock up to fit the diaphragm type. Its about £100 more expensive. Obviously I'd rather save myself the effort of sourcing a gsxr1100 clutch but not if its going to be crap. I also quite like the hydraulic clutch over cable but again its no big deal either way for me. I'm aiming for round 200bhp. Also are there any other manufacturers to look at than mtc? Thanks

I now have a TD04 15t turbo taken from a saab 9-5 aero. Bike is away with Colin Chapman of TPE to make up the manifolds and other hairdryer accessories. And I'm away down under for a couple of months. Thought I'd keep my eyes on Eblag for a set of 'busa pistons while I'm away. Are all the first generation ones suitable? And what does a new set of rings cost? (roundabout)

Have made a folded metal plate under the seat with all the electrics mounted on it. All wiring can quickly be unplugged and the plate removed to gain access when needed.

Yes I agree that I shouldn't need a pump regulator and one on the rail. Seems strange though that the pump has a return though.

Well I've been trying to test my fuel system - for leaks mostly. I'm using gsxr 600 fuel rail which I've cut in half and joined with threaded pipe and nuts to get the spacing right. It leaked a bit so I had to solder the threads on the nuts but now leak free. Fuel pressure regulator from an mx5 fits right on. The z750 pump seems to have an internal bypass on it which isn't bad thing but I can't test it flow rate under load as it just recirculates in the tank. On the plus side it only draws 2A current which is good for the electrical system.

I have red/white and yellow/black. Colours seem to change with each year. So the rear one (yellow/black) to ign and front one (red/white) to battery? If someone could confirm definitely. Thanks

I have a question regarding alternator wiring. It has 2 wires connected to it. They haynes manual suggests one is the exciter and the other the output but neither look like they can handle more than 10A. There is a big terminal connector on alternator - haynes says its earth but I have a feeling its not as: 1. The output must be 40A or so 2. The whole alternator is already earthed. So is this terminal supposed to be connected to battery positive?

Have the throttle bodies fitted. Just took a bit of heat, sweat and KY jelly. Have ripped every wire off the bike and starting again because the previous owner bodged some wiring up. Injectors are from an rx8 car and pencil coils from an r6. Rewiring it all for EFI with microsquit. There's a lot more wires than I realised....

Looking for someone to build me a turbo manifold and plenum in about 4 weeks time. Have been in touch with Dave of Fast by me but he is booked out for forseeable future. G19 engineering: http://www.g19engineering.com/ gave me a reasonable price estimate. Never heard of them before though. All others I emailed didn't bother to reply. Any other recommendations? Closer to Manchester is good. Happy to pay a competent DIY'er too if anyone on the forum is up for it.

Have another question - I have some gsxr 600 throttle bodies that I have respaced to fit the bandit rubbers but they are 38mm and the bandit 36mm so would the rubbers from a gsxr 750 or 1100 oiler (with 38mm carbs) have the correct spacing? I reckon I could get the throttle bodies in with a bit of heat and a lot of swearing but would rather not have to force them in. Edit: Bloody hell carb rubbers cost more than I paid for throttle bodies. I'll have a go at them with a hairdryer and KY jelly

I'm using a stock z750 pump for now (purely because it cost me £20). I suspect it delivers more than required on the kwaka but it will probably not be up to a turbo. I'm going to get the efi side of things sorted before I do the turbo. So if the z750 one struggles as it probably will I'll try and mount something more high performance in the kwaka housing.

I was thinking more along the lines of a hole in the cam cover to fit a sensor and glue a magnet to the cam. I've done similar on a car propshaft for speed sensor like this. Yours looks cool but over engineered!

From diyautotune website (the makers of microsquirt which I will be using) "2) Trigger Wheel on the crank: Since the crank runs at full engine speed, which is twice the cam/distributor speed, you only need half as many trigger positions on a crank mounted wheel (evenly spaced of course). This is also usually a toothed wheel with a VR sensor and is mounted on the crank pulley up front, or the flywheel on the back of the engine. Note it can also be a ‘flying magnet’ Hall Sensor setup. The results are the same. 2 trigger points for a 4 cylinder, 3 for a 6cyl, 4 for an 8cyl, you get the picture. " No idea if it will work well but it works in theory

Need a clutch pushrod just discovered I don't even have one in there - the long one of the two that actually fits on the clutch side. Not the 80mm one on the clutch cylinder side. Anyone know what other ones will fit as there are no b12 ones on Eblag at this moment.

Well I've made a little progress starting with converting the fuel tank to take EFI pump (from a z750).

Cheers guys

No it looked like it would squeeze the Swingarm further than I'm comfortable with unless that really is just the norm