luke2152

Well i pulled my barrels off today ready to get them bored. will i need a ring compressor to get them back on or will the chamfered bit in the bottom compress the rings ok.

Put some 750 srad forks on my bandit but they are leaking. Going to do seals and change oil this weekend. Someone suggested 7.5wt oil can anyone confirm? And whats the oil height on them. Cheers.

Yep nice work on that clutch cover colinworth. I'm going to link 3 cylinders to a small vacuum vessel and use that to link to map sensor, boost gauge and FPR. The 4th cylinder will link to BOV and the wastegate will have its own take off on the plenum

Scavenge pump made by guy in poland with a business called topbike. 200 euros. driven by a hex that meshes with the timing wheel hex. needed a little filing when it arrived as the hex was too long for casing to fit flush. but otherwise well made and hopefully works well too. turbo has a 500cc sump under it for oil to drain into as mechanical gear driven pumps aparantly dont self prime very well (compared to electric diaphram pumps).

Making some good progress. Here are some new pics. Have fitted SRAD forks with CBR 929 yokes. Think thats the fuel and oil setup done. Bit more to do on the electrics. Still got to strip it to get barrels bored for 'busa pistons and loads of other small details.

Question about the vacuum take offs on the gsxr 600 throttle bodies. The seem to have pretty small orifices in them (for good reason when balancing them). Will they flow enough to operate a BOV, map sensor, FPR etc. Should I use one cylinder for BOV, one for FPR one for MAP, one for boost gauge. Or run them all into a small vacuum vessel to even out fluctuations.

These bits on the outside edge? how much material should i take off. just enough to blunten it?

Have some 'busa pistons for it now. Is there anything else that wants doing when I put them in. Like heavy duty studs etc. Also has anyone had any dealings with Western Rebores in Failsworth. The are conveniently 50 metres from where I work.

Heres a pic of it all together (apart from bandit wheel which is just sitting there). Happy to say the Gurls blouse yokes took bandit stem and srad forks without a drama (had to drill the top yoke to 25mm and put a bush to fit the 22mm bandit stem).

I have a million other things to source getting all the turbo bits together but if i find a cheap srad/tl/'busa wheel in the meantime ill grab it.

Agreed but srad wheel and brake discs are moderately expensive. Enough to justify a little effort getting the bandit stuff to work. Can always grab an srad wheel later if i get stuck

I wont be using speedo drive anyway. It looks to me like more than 30mm inside hub but i didn't measure it. will see soon enough

I got a couple of 25x47x12 bearings off Eblag and figure the depth wont matter if i have to make spacers up anyway. Brought some 25mm ID aluminium pipe with 2.5mm walls to make spacers out of but I'm not sure if it is thick enough to not crush. i think cbr yokes also have 214mm fork centres but haven't measured.

So im doing a front end swap on my bandit using cbr 929 yokes (because they are stepped to allow shorter forks) and srad 750 forks (so i can keep my stock brakes). Want to use bandit wheel and figured i can put some bearings in to allow 25mm spindle. knock up a few spacers and happy days. But just realised srad uses 320mm discs to the bandits 310mm. Would it be so bad to have a the caliper overlapping the disc by 5mm?

Most the USD forks that are available are too short for the bandit. Anyone know who makes bespoke top yokes with a 40mm or so offset to more or less bolt them straight on and the cost (roughtly).

My adapter cost £3.99... So I think the drilling is best left as an emergency fix

I just did this on mine this week. As mentioned its an m16x1.5 thread. You are unlikely to find an m16 banjo that fits small hose (or at least I couldn't) but get yourself and m16 to m12 adaptor plug and then you can just run easy to find m12 banjo. My feed hose is 390mm long.

I feel I may have been going the wrong way with that zx7 fuel pump it is : 1. Mounted in middle of the tank due to its height (not good for fuel surge). 2. Not big enough for the job (I knew that already) but I thought I'd easily find an aftermarket replacement. Such replacements are not easy to find for zx7 housing and not big enough for turbo needs anyway - unless I've missed a good source. So what about just putting 2 unions in the rear of the tank and running an external efi pump. Will it be ok without baffles?

I have one due to the internal one (linkage actuator etc) getting in the way of where I wanted the turbo mounted. I made the mistake of buying a chinese one. It leaks like a sieve when I test it with my bike pump. Kind of works but also takes about two seconds to close again when you take the pressure off. But Eblag did give me my money back so I didn't lose out.

Thanks for the ideas guys

Will the 8an connectors flow enough though? I thought 10an would be more appropriate

Need a cooler for my turbo bandit. Sourced a 19 row egay special same as everyone else uses but it is a close fit with the manifold. It has to be mounted with the outlets facing up (the best way anyway) but the forks interfere with the outlets at full lock. Looked extensively online and all cheap oil coolers seem to be exactly the same width. The only extra wide ones I can find are Earls and Setrab - which cost 4 times as much. Anyone know of an alternative for reasonable money?

Planning on using a mechanical scavenge pump. I guess I'll need a sump tank under the turbo. Any idea what sort of volume it needs to be (pretty small I'm guessing just to hold the volume of oil in the turbo when you switch off). Should I put a 1 way valve in the scavenge line to stop oil flowing back to the sump tank after switch off?

Where are appropriate takeoffs for the oil feed. The m16 blank under the ignition cover? One of the two m16 blanks on the left side of the sump? Or tee'd into the oil cooler lines?

Have my bike back from Colin at TPE and he did a great job of making my manifolds and full exhaust, plenum, trigger wheel and a few other bits. Starting to look like a turbo bandit at last!