inazumarob

Totally different way of fitting, it is a collar which fits around the headlight. Fits perfectly though, and then slides into the headlight surround. A couple of securing holes to drill internally to secure the bracketry. unnoticeable externally. More than happy with it to be honest. Cost about £50 for fitting kit, £35 for the light.

Just putting together a headlight unit for an ET build. Headlight off Eblag, sizes vary slightly. Jeep Cherokee. 3 d surround from Belgium. Standard housing.

Thank you Guys.

Hello everyone, my mate has bought a 86 Slab side 1100. He will be joining OSS but on holiday at moment . He wants to upgrade the standard front end but preferably keeping the standard fork legs. Does anyone know of any useful upgrades for his bike, springs brakes calipers etc. Regards Rob.

I bought a 3d printed headlight kit for the 1100 ET which has the same headlight. It allows the fitment of the Jeep LED light, think that they are 7x5. The guy was called Frank Kanters, think that he is based in Belgium.

I have done a 530 conversion on a EFE build. I used a std Katana 1100 front sprocket with a spacer from a Bandit. Rear was a GSXF sprocket. I used 17/45 with a 120 link chain. Use a GS500 rear sprocket carrier. I am using a 160/60 rear tyre. The chains are imperial measurements. The 5 in 530 is 5/8" between pins, and the 6 in 630 is 6/8" (3/4). So roughly 16mm and 19mm. This is why link numbers differ.

I remember a Main Dealer salesman in Plymouth 20 years ago who was getting money paid from customers into his own account. He was ordering new bikes for delivery and pocketing the money. It took 6 months or more for the paperwork to travel through the companies system and he pocketed about £250k before he was found out. Got 2 1/2 years I think.

Thank you very much Guys, heard mixed reports myself, which is why I asked the experts. May have been interested in the Spondon Dezza mentioned, unfortunately did not see it. Would probably prefer something which needs some minor work, as I am firmly in the 20% tax band for wages. Will sell a couple of bikes and see what comes up in future. Regards Rob.

Hello everyone, recently bought some stuff off Mark Walker, no issues but got me thinking about possibly buying one of his Alloy tube frames. He has given me a price for the frame, and I realise it will not be a cheap build. Probably looking to buy a frame and a tank to start off with but thought I would ask here about what he is like to deal with and how likely he is to keep to a stated delivery time. I take it that there are no issues with quality. Any thoughts would be gratefully received, obviously a lot of money to lay out so just trying to do due diligence before I start talking properly with him. How does he compare with GIA pricewise. Many thanks Rob.

So I have changed the clutch cable for a new one, I have oiled the cable, made sure it was correctly routed and oiled the lever. Got to say it was a major improvement, I can pull clutch in with 2 fingers now and feel like it is as good as it is going to get. Not modern hydraulic light but normal pressure needed now. Happy to live with it, I needed to squeeze very hard before, like one of those grip springs. Thanks every one for the info, still need both hands for what Tony recommended, so don't think it would really improve things.

Thanks for the replies Guys, I will let you know how I get on.

Hello everyone, I have a 1984 EFE that I am getting back on the road . It is noticeable that the lever pull at the handlebar is very heavy, I need to have forearms like the Hulk to pull lever to the bars. I have previously stripped the clutch due to plates being stuck together and replaced the clutch centre with a brand new unit due to wear on splines. The clutch works. I will be changing the standard cable for a new one and I have bought a new lever for the naked version as I am using straight bars. I expect that the clutch springs are the heavy duty versions. I remember reading some while ago that you could fit lighter rated springs to the clutch, would any one have any idea what ones I need. I realise that they may not solve the problem but not expensive to try. I do not drag race the bike or ride excessively hard, so do not expect to stress clutch. Many thanks everyone. Regards Rob.

I have a JMC arm on my EFE, I have a Metmachex one as well which is slightly wider at rear.

The 'E' is model designation, letter after shows year. Body and engines changed depending on the year. T is 1980, X is 1981. F is 1984 on model with next letter showing year. GSX 110 is 1075 cc, 1135 had number starting with 'V'.

I have fitted a wheel conversion to my 84 EFE. I used a 4.5" GSXR 1100 rear wheel with a GS500 sprocket carrier. I had to change bearings to match spindle diameter and shorten bearing spacer by 11 mm. I used a GSXF rear sprocket and Katana front sprocket 17/45. Spaced out front sprocket using a Bandit spacer, 530 120 link chain.