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inazumarob

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Everything posted by inazumarob

  1. So I have changed the clutch cable for a new one, I have oiled the cable, made sure it was correctly routed and oiled the lever. Got to say it was a major improvement, I can pull clutch in with 2 fingers now and feel like it is as good as it is going to get. Not modern hydraulic light but normal pressure needed now. Happy to live with it, I needed to squeeze very hard before, like one of those grip springs. Thanks every one for the info, still need both hands for what Tony recommended, so don't think it would really improve things.
  2. Thanks for the replies Guys, I will let you know how I get on.
  3. Hello everyone, I have a 1984 EFE that I am getting back on the road . It is noticeable that the lever pull at the handlebar is very heavy, I need to have forearms like the Hulk to pull lever to the bars. I have previously stripped the clutch due to plates being stuck together and replaced the clutch centre with a brand new unit due to wear on splines. The clutch works. I will be changing the standard cable for a new one and I have bought a new lever for the naked version as I am using straight bars. I expect that the clutch springs are the heavy duty versions. I remember reading some while ago that you could fit lighter rated springs to the clutch, would any one have any idea what ones I need. I realise that they may not solve the problem but not expensive to try. I do not drag race the bike or ride excessively hard, so do not expect to stress clutch. Many thanks everyone. Regards Rob.
  4. I have a JMC arm on my EFE, I have a Metmachex one as well which is slightly wider at rear.
  5. The 'E' is model designation, letter after shows year. Body and engines changed depending on the year. T is 1980, X is 1981. F is 1984 on model with next letter showing year. GSX 110 is 1075 cc, 1135 had number starting with 'V'.
  6. I have fitted a wheel conversion to my 84 EFE. I used a 4.5" GSXR 1100 rear wheel with a GS500 sprocket carrier. I had to change bearings to match spindle diameter and shorten bearing spacer by 11 mm. I used a GSXF rear sprocket and Katana front sprocket 17/45. Spaced out front sprocket using a Bandit spacer, 530 120 link chain.
  7. There is a brand new shaft on Eblag uk, item number is 163524142452. 163524142452
  8. Hi Guys and Gals, I decided to give the brake calipers a strip down and clean due to bike not being used for a while. I dropped the caliper halves in to a mix of 10% Harpic Plus 10 and hot water. This is a picture of them half done.
  9. Hi Guys and Gals, I am putting a GSXR 750M motor in my Inazuma. I am using GSXR 750 36mm carbs and it looks like that it is a single throttle cable operation not the normal push/pull one. Can I just use the pull cable out of the push/pull set up, or do I need to change cable and twist grip etc. Thank you. Rob.
  10. Many thanks Guys, I will fit a early filter cover. Much appreciated. Regards Rob.
  11. Hi Guys and Gals, I have a EFE with the oil cooler removed, there are 2 blanking plugs where cooler pipes normally fit. I am happy at the moment not to have the cooler fitted. Am I ok running engine this way with standard EFE oil filter cover fitted, or do I need to fit the standard GSX 1100 cover. Many thanks everyone. Rob.
  12. Normally the idle adjustment on Suzuki carbs is done by a knurled adjusting wheel hanging underneath the carbs in the middle. Best carb synchroniser for sensible money is a Morgan Carbtune. The Gunson colortune is the glass plug you are looking for, harder to see flame colour with modern fuels though. Reset mixture adjusting screws to standard settings when fitting airbox and filter, normally located at bottom of carb body in a little tower casting.
  13. I do not know about the base gasket issue, but I do know that the mesh on the oil pickup tube in the sump gets blocked. I understand that it is part of the service schedule to clean the mesh regularly but it gets missed and over time the mesh blocks restricting oil flow. Usually happens when oil changes not carried out regularly.
  14. Thanks Guys, spent far too much rescuing it, but would have been scrapped else. Little bit of work to finish, then on to the next one (1100et)
  15. I changed the clutch centre for a brand new one, seems better now. Will find out next year when I use it regularly. Got painter to add stripe to tank and mudguard. Think it looks good.
  16. Bandit 1200's use a 6mm spacer behind the front sprocket which should fit the output shaft. I aligned my EFE sprockets by using a length of string. I made a small loop in string which I looped over a tooth on rear of rear sprocket, ran up inside of sprocket and through teeth. String then runs parallel along face of sprocket to front sprocket, You can then work out offset needed.
  17. My EFE has a key number stamped on the ignition switch and on the bottom of the fuel cap. Worth looking on the helmet lock as well. Good locksmiths can cut a key from the number.
  18. Been having issue with dragging clutch, I have stripped clutch pack and inspected everything. Clutch steels look good and are flat, fibres look good and meet thickness specs. When I looked at rear of clutch hub, I found this. New one now on way, so will find out if this is causing the issue.
  19. Paint does not come out well in photo. It is a proper Candy Apple Red, looks lovely in the sun.
  20. Finally getting to the end of the rebuild on the nearly dead EFE. Here is the latest photo and the first.
  21. Hi Xandor, to get seat off, there is a lock under rear seat pad on lhs. Turn key to left to work seat lock on front seat. It may be stiff, push rear of front seat down when turning key, then pull seat up. Battery (YB14L-A2) is under seat. Fit new battery, turn ignition on and see if dash lights come on, there is an ignition fuse in fuse box behind rhs panel. Check oil level to make sure of level and to make sure oil looks like oil, if looking reasonable leave for minute. Drain fuel from carbs using drain bolts on bottom of carb bodies and replace bolts. Take tank off and drain fuel, put to 1 side. Get cheap fuel bottle from eBlag and feed fresh fuel to carbs, plug vacuum line from carb. Worth trying to turn over and see if it will start. Mine has a manual choke on l/h handlebar, do not operate throttle as CV carbs do not like it. They operate differently to car carbs.
  22. Connect the wire for the sensor to the battery positive terminal. The sensors are really expensive new from Suzuki but I have seen new one recently for £10 on Eblag.
  23. Hi Guys and Gals, after a week of fiddling with wiring on the EFE, I managed to get the bike started. No issues, left the bike and went to restart the next day and bike immediately blew the 20a power fuse. Fault eventually stopped when reg rec was unplugged. I was thinking of doing the SH775 Mosfet conversion to sort out charging once and for all. Would any SH775 be suitable, or is there a specific part number I should use. Many Thanks. Rob
  24. I think that it is a V and H Street pipe
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