Blue
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Posts posted by Blue
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I believe they are 750m forks & yokes, but is the stem? its not steel & has this top bearing, thanks
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On my gsxr 1100 we ended up with 155 mains, clip on 2nd position from top & Air screws 2 1/2 turns out, ram Air filters
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JBC
in Trick Frames
I've been sorting out the rear wheel alignment, as the swing arm had been narrowed on one side the wheel needed moving over to the right but this wasn't possible as there isn't enough thread. I could've fitted a vfr hub & fitted a 4 bolt bike or car wheel but I'm not keen on that look. I've been searching to get answers on using a ducati wheel, I figured that when a ducati wheel has been fitted to a triumph sssa they fit a 15mm spacer behind the wheel then rethread the axle & cut it down. I hoped I could do something similar. I liked the look of the multi spoke wheel as opposed to the 3 spoke but everytime one came up on Eblag they were £200 but then 1 came up for half that so I bought it, it turned out that I only needed a 5mm spacer behind the wheel. So I removed the 4 locating pins & placed the spacer against the hub & made some new pins out of some high tensile, 5mm longer & pressed them back in through the spacer. I've made up a conical washer/spacer to hold the wheel onto the axle.
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If you mean 87 750 frame I have a 91 1100 in mine
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Had them off & all seems ok, but if I have missed something what would it be? I’m thinking valves
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Ah I’ll have to check that, it didn’t make any difference swapping the lead over from no.2. I also squirted some wd40 into the pod filter which seemed to drop the temperature a little
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Ok cheers, next I’ll swap leads over & see what happens
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What would cause no.3 cylinder to run cooler? I’ve been chasing this problem, I went out on my bike (1127 with 38mm’s it was set up on a Dyno & has covered about 600 miles) all seemed ok then it felt like I was running out of fuel. I switched over to reserve but it got slowly worse, it wouldn’t tick over when I came to a roundabout. Today I stripped the carbs & cleaned out the mains & pilots, then fired it up. 3 cylinders running around 60* but no.3 only 40* I checked plug which seemed ok but changed it anyway. I think I could hear it kicking in whilst ticking over trying to run on 4. Coil? Valves? What do you reckon?
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91 on 1100 40mm has 6zd13-3
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Ah so you need a picture of one in place
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B/W from cdi to sidestand/turn signal relay/starter relay/left indy/stop & tail light.
o/w from cdi to coils/RH handlebar switch
W from cdi to coil
B/Y from cdi to coil/tacho
Black/Blue, Yellow from cdi to signal generator
Black/Red from cdi to tacho
Note 7 wires on 750 1988-91
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I used these
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I ended up using 0985h-64t2-ss needles, they’re all 56mm long.
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I’ve got the same with factorypro kit
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Any use?
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I used stainless
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If I remember I think the arm is a little narrower so I made up some wider top hats to fit in the frame. I changed the accentuater (bush in the middle of rocker) to one with a single hole in the centre. I played around with different length doggy bones till I was happy with it. I’ll try to find some pics or more info
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I did on my first slabby 750, quite awhile ago now
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Why would you? Unless you like changing gears
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Just bear in mind it’s not a simple case of fitting “other forks”
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Looks like yours is fitted to the hose
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Hi, welcome aboard, K5 thou forks in mine
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The hose is touching the exhaust
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Can I get a 45 deg fitting to go between cooler & hose?
JBC
in Trick Frames
Posted
Today I pulled it apart to get it out of the garage & reassembled it in its new home, hopefully I can get on with now