Rijko

maybe ask on GSR, they have a lot of experience with that sort of things

hahaha ok, thanks John

The vacuum operated ones are sometimes left on prime, and will leak when old. Any manuel one like a Pingel left on, can be a problem. Both may result in a puddle on the floor and/or fuel in the engine oil. An ideal combo with either i think, is to mount an electronic fuel valve. Switches on when contact is on, switches off when contact is off. Ideal for a goldfish memory like mine

interesting ! Which Katana 400 is that, the old GSX400F or the later GSX400S ?

For the K@w@ Z900 they have aluminium aftermarket ones, i have never seen them for Suzuki. Had some made for my GS1000 years ago, with a small lip on the inside to prevent them being pushed out. Alas, the guy that made them stopped his business ..

I recently read a nice explanation of the culprit in trusting a continuity test. Say you have a wire with all strands but 1 broken. A continuity test would be succesful, but no way that 1 strand would be able to carry enough amps to power something big. Only a load test would show the wire to be the problem. You just did a ok continuity test but the load test failed ...

Occam's razor .. if fact 1 (12V input is present) is correct and fact 3 (no output) is correct ... fact nr. 2 should be questioned. +1 on what Tony said

TPS operates low rpm ... which is not the range the Dyno looks at so no, won't show up on the chart

TPS relates to ignition advance. I noticed a difference on several bikes that would not idle nicely before adjustment. Better idling and a bit smoother acceleration without hesitation. Some may not notice it especially on a Bandit or XJR because of the massive torque they have at low rpm. Many use ignition advancers that disguise a badly set TPS so will not notice it.

haha you just had to disagree eh ? Well, agreed as far as bad set TPS usually causes low rpm rumbling, no backfires. Not checking .. well ... they do something. I like my bikes set up optimal, so i do check them.

May want to check the TPS ..

Disagreed, but that's just preference. Had a set of blanking plates but I love the sound it makes with PAIR

The base plate needs some work ...

This issue needs to be sorted : you may solve your current issue doing so .. That's not a wise crack - the GS family is known to have bad connections. Low voltage due to bad connections does impact power supply to igniter and coils. The issue is really common ... you should really check your connections. If the starter relais and starter engine do not engage when pressing the button, you may have dirt or corrosion inside the RH handlebar switch. 12V to igniter and coils also come from that switch.

Even if his website does not list them, i am (pretty) sure Marcel Vlaandere can hook you up with all you need. If he does not have it, he has a large network and will most likely be able to source them for you.

CMSNL has 0910110017 in stock.

Great project ! Any plans for the engine, stock, tuned, mods ?

thanks. I would like to have more power, but it looks like that drags one into expensive territory .... Starting with the non-welded crank that does not seem to be able to handle much more than standard. Straight gears on the crank and clutch basket, bigger valves, flowed head, expensive carbs, etc. Too bad, if crank revision/welding was not so expensive i would probably be able to get a fresh flowed head with new valve guides and large valves. Found a super nice overview of GSX engine specifications, weaknesses and differences here : https://suzuki-classic.de/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=5192&p=29371#p29367 I have found slotted cam gears : cam timing seems to be the main performance difference between 100 HP GS110X and 110 HP Katana GS110X engines. Pretty cheap upgrade. The Martin 4-1 exhaust seems to be pretty free flowing with a quite big collector diameter.

They seem to have removed the stand. This is another site selling them : https://probike.co.uk/workshop-equipment/diagnostics/carburation/carburettor-stand

Some gofast camshafts require an adjustment to the rockers

I have had something like that long ago. In that case, the float bowl gasket was too wide, and when mounting the float bowls the gasket would press the float in the highest position and keep it there, so all 4 float needles were shut.

About the kit options : here's a brochure describing them. Ofcourse money talks so customers could buy any single option.

Also it allows a nice way to check for dirty or sticky float valves without a big mess ! Check out this short movie : https://photos.app.goo.gl/CvRrkfWCNt2L8Yfy5

It is great, would not want to do without it ! It is for sale here : https://eshop.econ-werkzeuge.de/Vergaserhalter-6676293 You can set the carb fuel level using the exact angle as on the bike, turn the carbs while working on them, it also has a leak container below.

Next up, ultrasonic cleaning. All 4 came out great like this one.