Rijko

Have experience with that ? I would be very interested. I have the same issue with a Moto Martin. These tanks are small to begin with, so a tank in a tank would reduce fuel capacity even further. Fortunately Martin sells the tankseats still, in modern material that can handle modern fuel. Think i'll go that way. But if you know of fuel blatters or something else ... lemme know please.

I think that's the way to go. Mate had one made by TheTankShop in Scotland IIRC. Price was nice, took half a year though. Was delivered polished like chrome, no dents or scratches or imperfections. Best alloy tank we have ever seen, perfect replica, perfect welds, so beautiful he did not paint it.

i would not risk it, coating does not hold well on polyester tanks that had gas in them for years. Talked to my painters over the years, they warn their customers about that. I ended up having mine reproduced using modern material that withstands modern gas. Not too expensive, too. Ofcourse after i done that i found a NOS tank, lined and painted ... the guy spent all that money only to find out he had the Kawa tank with petcock positions different to the H*nda and had it just sitting there

How did you spray starting fluid into the non firing cylinder ? These VM carbs do not like to run without airbox much and you sayin' hand against the carb makes me ask. What happens if you start the bike and spray some fluid into the nr. 3 vacuum hose with the airbox on ? Does applying the choke on and off and giving it a bit of throttle make any difference ?

Since we're kinda guessing and you have already taken off the head, reground valves etc : assuming you set valve play and rechecked compression .... Did you replace the o-rings on the carb-to-cylinder boots ? Maybe test the seal on number 3 by spraying brake cleaner or starter fluid on the boot. Any change in rpm, up or down, indicates a leak. Are the 4 carb sync bolts in the inlet manifolds present ? Got a strobe light ? Neat use for that thing is connect it to the problem cylinder and just look at the flickering light, no need to point it at your timing marks. Multiple issues like a broken spark plug, cap, bad connection to the cap, etc show up clearly. Either by not flickering at all, or clearly irregularly. Stuff i would not have noticed because i saw a nice spark were clearly visible this way. Got a 'known good' situation where the bike ran on all 4 ? Maybe with the points setup ? Got good 12V at the ignition and coils ?

Cool build ! Is that an original (polyester) racetank ? (vs wider "coffin" metal gas tank and dummy tank on top) That old polyester stuff does not handle the modern day gas very well ... may want to consider that before spending a lot of money on painting.

You did not mention replacing the base gasket and o-rings. These will often develop a leak when disturbed by taking off the head.

The fuel tap vacuum hose is on nr. 3, is it connected to the petcock ?

According to the document, there are at least 3 types of cams : 100/111/125 HP, the D cams being the faster ones.

This is a super study into the cams, start at p29. Sorry, it's in German. https://up.picr.de/36612796ge.pdf

You are right Tony, so here goes. first, i try to follow if you don't have something positive to contribute - don't. I broke that, and said several things i should not have, in a way i should not have. I am sorry about that, and apologize for that. I was tired and went too far, something rubbed me the wrong way. Ofcourse, things like petrol resistant kits ARE made to help with petrol leaks. Applied properly, it's a good thing. My keyboard warriorism is something i never do, uncharacteristic for me. I am sorry for that, it really is the first time i trolled a thread like that. Sorry to OP also. And you guys went easier on me for that than i deserve ... thanks. For the first time my contributions lead to a thread i'd rather see deleted because of them.

Some 8 years ago i read about someone with a restored GS1000 that caught fire. I called them on behalf of the club i was a member of to offer help. They smeared the petcock. It started leaking, and there probably also was a shortcircuit. It's in Dutch, but the pictures say enough. Please don't F around with botched solutions and find out, especially with gas ... https://gs-ownersclub.tk/kunena/7-klets-hoek/4601-suzuki-gs1000g-uitgebrand.html#7049

the list of people i hope not to read about in the news ...

Can't teach someone who's cup is already full, mr. Miyagi said.

that's exactly what i mean. Sealant is NOT the proper solution to stop a gas leak. Now i know for sure what list to place your advice on

uhhmm ... all fuel leaks down and he comes here asking for advice. Does not sound like he can diagnose it himself. Now every forum gives advice, but the readiness to offer smearing kit or use PFTE tape boggles my mind. Plenty of knowledge here, but if you would rather call proper troubleshooting splitting hairs ... and offering sealing kit .. does not immediately place you in my list of proper mechanics giving sound advice

No, he said "looks like". Leaves all options open ...

i'd look for the cause before resorting to tricks. Just a few options, just narrow it down. Tank is leaking, seal between tank and tap, tap itself, or the washers. Mate had new washers leaking, turned out the mating surface for the washers was damaged. Filed them surfaces on the tap flat, solved.

right, that *may* be good news for me, i have a spare engine with 24 bolt head but never thought it could have a welded crank. Will check that this weekend, fingers crossed

i did not know that, thought the crank welding started in '83. So do i understand correctly - the silver EX engine with 24 bolt cam covers also had a welded crank ?

dry ice blasting is less abrasive if you are going for bare alloy. Not cheaper than vapour blasting though. Try several paint strippers, i have 4 and found what works on 1 part may not work well on another part. Coat it with paint stripper and air seal it in a bag for a day often works.

that's for the 1980 models with square masters .. does not fit a 1978/1979 ..

same for me, K&N and Yoshi pipe, running standard pilot jets.

well now that's cool advice, knowledge i did not have, and it simplifies things ...

anyone got a better wiring diagram ? My old eyes can't make out the details on this picture ...