Triumph rear wheel on an slabside

[manden]

does any one know what spacers to use and what offset i need for spacers and offset for brake disk and sprocket. the rim comes from an 675r street tripple.

 

greatfull for any advice

[markfoggy]

I'm in this as well and I think/fear that the news may not be great.

I am probably guilty of suggesting that this should be really do-able, but it's looking like it will all go wrong on the drive hub side.

The sprocket line should be fine, you are running a 180 tyre with the chain just about kissing the tyre edge and it should all drop into place. The trouble comes in the sprocket carrier, which has a really deep boss for the Outer bearing and it looks like this is never going to be workable with the stock arm. Triumph seem to use this carrier across all sorts of models and years, so I can't see any alternatives here.

I should really have got forward enough in my project to give more advice, but life intervening and all that.

I couldn't see the problem , cause I was busy switching arms to something else, so what looked like a relatively simple job is actually a lot more involved.

I think that the problem is going to be, that if you machine the hub carrier down enough to get the wheel central, there is not enough room in there for the seal. The outer hub seal is quite slim ( a slimmer seal might be available, but I doubt it) and it lands on a circlip that is the bearing stop coming from the other direction. The solution is to run a slimmer bearing and reduce the depth of the spacer that goes inside, but that means cutting a new groove for a circlip, which is a complete ball ache and impossible to make strong unless you fill the existing circlip groove with weld ( a major fackin ball ache).

So, I put my hands up, I've probably cost you some money.

 

[Cheeky4648]

@markfoggy I don’t think the issues you talk about will happen. As you can see there is an 8mm lip for the seal and then the circlip. All told to the bearing it’s 10mm. Also I would machine the circlip grove off too, and make a bell shaped spacer with a groove on the outer lip to take an o ring so sealing the sealed anyway bearing. Also with the spacer taking up the diameter it would act as a stop for the outer race given a few thou clearance. 

Machining all 10mm off would make the sprocket bolts hit first by about 1.2mm. Also the bearing is against a stop on the inside (pic2) so don’t really see the need for the circlip imo  

Edited July 28, 2018 by Cheeky4648

[manden]

thanks for the replies. if i mill off the 10 mm what spacer should i then use. and the 20mm bearings that is in the triumph wheel will they fit the 20mm suza axle? i really would like to fit this rim and tire on my bike

[markfoggy]

Sorry, been a while since I looked, I am a little fixated on keeping spacers captive, so for these wheels on skinny spindles I am a little screwed on a full Endurance spec set up. Plan is to switch out to higher spec wheels, but with an integral cush at a much later date.

Good pointers though.

[Gammaboy]

Those seals might be usefull if you ride the bike in all weathers, but I suspect there's not much point to them with sealed bearings anyway (my kat doesn't run any, nor does did the mito or the RG) - unless you want everything to work like an endurance racer that one time a year you pull the back wheel out to change tyres.

As for the circlip - nothing i've owned has ever used a circlip on a wheel or sprocket carrier bearing like that - even when my Kat flogged out the sprocket carrier so that the bearing was loose in the carrier, it stayed captive between the spacers, cush rubber and shoulder in the casting. 

You'll be able to gain some space to the sprocket studs by using bolts instead of studs and nuts - you may want to consider locktite or nordlock washers though.

[Cheeky4648]

@mandenMachine the lip off the carrier then assemble the carrier in the wheel without the rubbers to make shure the carrier is bottomed out against the inner bearing. Put wheel in swing arm with Suzuki spindle (it will fit) center the wheel in chassis. Check chain run and then measure for the width you will need for the spacer. Get one turned up. Job jobbed

[Cheeky4648]

As @Gammaboysaid you will need to use bolts instead of studs and nuts to gain more clearance. Even may need a bit off the sprocket face on the carrier to bring everything into line. Every bike is different. Putting the same wheels in my gsxr once I’ve fitted the engine where I want it. 

Edited August 2, 2018 by Cheeky4648
Missed a bit.

[manden]

looks awesome. is it safe to use hard with 150hp at the wheel?

[Cheeky4648]

Yup. @manden I’m aiming at 225 to 250 hp turbo. The triumph wheels are good and light. And I’m my mind neeeeeeeed to be white. Everyone to their own though. Lol. Have fun building Stuff. 

[manden]

Thanks m8