The Charging Mod - Connector Block I.D.

[Crass]

I'm going to do the charging circuit mod to my 750L as I have the high output voltage issue.  Could someone help with a couple of questions, please?  Firstly, in another thread Captain Chaos said that the connector block containing the required wires was located under the seat, so to sensibly locate the relay here - is this the one shown arrowed in the pic?  It has red and orange wires coming in one end and a couple of reddish (old and faded) cloth insulation coloured ones out the other end.

Second question - the 'how to' mentions a 30A relay but I'm guessing there is no requirement for the inserted lengths of wire to be thick 30A rated?  Just the same size / rating as the wires to be cut?  Does anyone know offhand what this size / rating is to save me buggering around trying to measure cut wires?

Thanks.

 

[E T]

I've just done this mod on my slabby with 750m motor & loom. Thats the right plug, i used wire i cut from an old loom.

[Crass]

Cheers

[CockneyRick]

What is this "mod" you talk of, & why have you got high output voltage?

[Crass]

10 hours ago, CockneyRick said:

What is this "mod" you talk of, & why have you got high output voltage?

https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/archives/tag/charging-system explains it all without me repeating it.

 

[CockneyRick]

How strange! I have made up a fly lead for my orange trigger wire from a switched feed (Minimal Drag bike loom)

Now admittedly the battery i use is on its way out & reads 10 ish volts, & when the feed is on it stays reasonably constant.

However if i connect up the orange wire, it drops drastically from 10v to anywhere between 3 & 6v. This is a hefty drop, considering it's not doing anything?

Any thoughts?

[jonny1bump]

Im glad this post of mine is helping out took me ages to realize why i was cooking so many batteries.

Alternator is quite simple has voltage on wire from ignition and output wire they need to match if not alternator ramps up.

Without feed wire on alternator will not work its what wakes it up.

Sound like control side alternator about to go check brushes first see they stuck or worn also if battery us and close to dead short that cause all sorts of Choas.

[CockneyRick]

been reliably informed that the reason for my voltage drop is that the internal Rectifier is fooked! I can also lead to a spike in output too  

[Crass]

On 7/29/2018 at 9:48 PM, jonny1bump said:

Im glad this post of mine is helping out took me ages to realize why i was cooking so many batteries.

Alternator is quite simple has voltage on wire from ignition and output wire they need to match if not alternator ramps up.

Without feed wire on alternator will not work its what wakes it up.

Sound like control side alternator about to go check brushes first see they stuck or worn also if battery us and close to dead short that cause all sorts of Choas.

Thanks very much for posting that fix up, really appreciated.  I've avoided cooking a battery yet.  My first intimation something wasn't right is because my tickover went down with the lights on.  Always been like it since I got the bike.  Then came across the archive link, tested my voltages and found exactly the problem you described, so decided to nip things in the bud and do the mod.  As you say in the fix, there must be loads of bikes out there with this issue, probably most of them, but if the battery lasts a few years before failing people just put it down to normal wear and tear.

[jonny1bump]

Im glad this has helped. A lot of the voltage drop I feel is caused by the ignition switch itself.