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Restricted?


Jay_111

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Posted

Now then,

Currently rebuilding an 1100N, (white and blue shell suit special) :)

it's completely stock with original exhaust and filters/airbox etc.

When rummaging through the stack of paperwork I got with it I found a dyno sheet from 2011 that showed only 116bhp. Very clean line but it seems a bit low.. I'm guessing it's at the wheel however,

Questions are:

Is it restricted then? If so where? Should I be worried? Is it just a case of exhaust and filter + jet kit to release the power?

Thanks

Jay

 

 

Posted

The factory 'claimed' 145hp @ 10,000 rpm - usually at the crank - should translate to about 130 - 135bhp at wheel!

I believe some of the european markets had restricted outputs - France, I think is 100bhp @ wheel so would tie in to what the dyno sheet says?

Posted

Stock bike 125 at back wheel is norm obviously there are many different factors and claims.  If your bike needs bit of fettling, servicing etc you can expect a lot less. The m and n 40mm  carbs can be very fussy. Start basics valve clearances, filters, balance, ignition etc.  How does it feel you carried out any work in it.

Do not put in dynojet kit.

 

  • Like 1
Posted

The 89-92 1100k-n were just restricted through the stock end cans(west German and french models are electrical and mechanical),with different countries having different size can outlets. The usa was the most restricted and the Italian models the least restricted.
The UK model zzr11(carb tops),fzr1000(veins on the inlet rubbers) and gsxr1100(the cans) were on a voluntary 125bhp at the time(the cbr1000 didn't make enough power,so didn't need restricting). If Martin Bangemann(remember him)had his way,then he would have had a europe 100bhp limit :)

 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Stock bike 125 at back wheel is norm obviously there are many different factors and claims.  If your bike needs bit of fettling, servicing etc you can expect a lot less. The m and n 40mm  carbs can be very fussy. Start basics valve clearances, filters, balance, ignition etc.  How does it feel you carried out any work in it.

Do not put in dynojet kit.

 

ah ok thanks! No Dynojet kit? What would you suggest instead? Factory pro? It felt healthy when I last rode it. It is completely standard as far as I know. A full service carb balance and exhaust is about to happen (if I can find a decent pipe). Saw those titanium Danmoto cans on Fleabay. Cheap enough and look ok... Thoughts?

Edited by Jay_111
Posted

The 89-92 1100k-n were just restricted through the stock end cans(west German and french models are electrical and mechanical),with different countries having different size can outlets. The usa was the most restricted and the Italian models the least restricted.
The UK model zzr11(carb tops),fzr1000(veins on the inlet rubbers) and gsxr1100(the cans) were on a voluntary 125bhp at the time(the cbr1000 didn't make enough power,so didn't need restricting). If Martin Bangemann(remember him)had his way,then he would have had a europe 100bhp limit :)

 

Nice one, so it's just the exhaust... Excellent. And oh yeah I remember that plonker well enough. Haha

Thanks guys

Posted

If its stock then the stock carb settings are what it needs but if you want to mod it, then particularly with an exhaust - do not think cheap cos you'll probably spend money to achieve stock power.......or less! Check the plates on race bike exhausts - they don't use them as a fashion statement!

Posted

If its stock then the stock carb settings are what it needs but if you want to mod it, then particularly with an exhaust - do not think cheap cos you'll probably spend money to achieve stock power.......or less! Check the plates on race bike exhausts - they don't use them as a fashion statement!

Sure, if i was buying a fiull system (which I will be at a later date) then I would be looking at quality but as we are only talking end cans, couldnt see any reason past build quality. A Racefit beckons at a later date or even a Techserfu. (had a Techserfu along with 41mm TMR's ready for the big build but sold them at profit) But for now.. cheap end cans it is. :)

For now I want to get to decent power by de restricting it. So should I fit a jet kit or not, or just get it to a dyno and jetted properly? Cost Vs quality I guess. Has anyone got experience of just replacing cans? What else did you need to do?

Thanks

Jay

Posted

Mine(1100k) didn't need rejetting,it ran quite rich stock.It was spot-on with Harpoon cans/link pipes on the stock 4-2-2 header. Was also spot on with the gsxr1000k2 ti headers,1000k5 link pipe and micron can and  the 750l micron 4-1 system i now have fitted.
The only time i needed to upjet,was with the V&H pro-pipe.I had to goto 140 mains with that system.

 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Sure, if i was buying a fiull system (which I will be at a later date) then I would be looking at quality but as we are only talking end cans, couldnt see any reason past build quality. A Racefit beckons at a later date or even a Techserfu. (had a Techserfu along with 41mm TMR's ready for the big build but sold them at profit) But for now.. cheap end cans it is. :)

For now I want to get to decent power by de restricting it. So should I fit a jet kit or not, or just get it to a dyno and jetted properly? Cost Vs quality I guess. Has anyone got experience of just replacing cans? What else did you need to do?

Thanks

Jay

Do not put Dyno jet kit they too fussy and wear out in ridiculous amount of time. I did a post years ago about making aluminium needle holders to keep needles square to stop emulsion tube and needles wearing so quick, not sure if that is in vault will have to have look.

Standard Suzuki emulsion tubes and needles are a must. It certainly would not hurt to put free flowing filter in air box with cans you will need to dyno to make the best out of the set up once fully serviced, valve clearances set and balance carbs. In that order.

Edited by jonny1bump
  • Like 1

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