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GS1000S Leccy Testing?


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Hi all, anyone have an idiots guide to testing the charging circuit for GS1000's

I've deffo got a problem somewhere in the charging circuit or reg/rec (it's an aftermarket Eletrexworld one I've had in there for over 20 years!) as a good battery is discharged enough to not be able to crank the bike over after about 10 miles running.

I've tested the three separate genny outputs and the meter reads 34V, 35V and 34V, when running at around 2,000 rpm.  Do these look OK?  Also the red wire coming out of the reg/rec gets hot when it's running.

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The easiest thing to do is a "Quick Test" and it is located over at GS Resources unless I can get it posted here as well. If you post the numbers I can steer you in the right way.

 

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?164993-Charging-System-QUICK-TEST&p=1272192#post1272192

 

The voltages you provided are possibly OK, they are normally measured at 5000 RPM and you should have about 80 VAC. If I scale up your 35VAC (5000/2000) you are at 87.5VAC which would be OK if you can really get it. best not to jump to conclusions and see what the Quick Tests says. Also I will forewarn you there has been a quite revolution going on in UJM's converting away from SHUNt R?R's to SERIES R?R. That Electrosport is one of the dreaded SHUNT R/R. They cook stators.

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OK, got a new battery and these are the readings:

Referring the the 'quick checks' you mentioned above:

Key off = 12.8V

Key on = 12.4V

Key on with lights on -= 12.2V

Idle (1500rpm) = all over the place, from 0 to 13+V, the same when revved to 5000 rpm (red wire from r/r to battery still gets hot when running)

Key off = 12.9V

Rechecked the stator with the new battery:

Resistance between the stator wires (after subtracting the resistance of the tester leads) W/B and G/W = 0.8 ohms, Y and W/B = 0.8 ohms and G/W and Y = 0.9 ohms.

AC voltage when running measured between the three stator wires (meter set to 200ACV) = all three combinations read about 18V at 1500 rpm, 30V at 2000 rpm and 45V+ at 4000+ rpm.

So it looks like the R/R....?

Ironically I tested the R/R according to Electrex World troubleshooting sheet and it passed!  The test was to check the DIODE readings by measuring the three yellow wires alternatly with both the red and black wires from the R/R.  The readings should be between 'OV'350 and 550 both ways - and they were.  The readings were all around 460 to 470 cold, and 380 to 400 warm...... As I don't really know what I'm doing, is it possible for the unit to be knackered despite this?

If it is, one of the links referred to 'shunt' versions of R/R's and something else?  Anyone know if the Electrex World (they are crap at answering questions) version (RR10) is good to replace the old RR10 I've got?

Cheers

 

Edited by stevie747
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well the reg/rec of choice on thegsresources is a series regulator not a shunt. shunt is what beats up your stator. the most common recommended is a sh775 from Polaris. careful though there is a lot of counterfeit looking ones on Eblag. it should have the Polaris part number 4012941 so you don't end up with another shunt reg/rec disguised as a series reg/rec.

I ended up getting mine from a local Polaris dealer so I didn't get ripped off on Eblag.

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this is cut and pasted from a thread by steve on gsresources

all of these places carry the 4012941 and I believe some will ship to uk

 

Polaris Parts 1 2 365.7414.9980.73 
2 Wheel Pros80.106.9587.05 
MotoSport71.270.0071.27free shipping over $49
Bike Bandit73.948.9582.89free shipping over $99
Partzilla74.0210.9584.97free shipping over $250
Polaris Parts Monster74.5716.5691.13 
Cycle Parts Warehouse74.5711.7886.35 
Polaris Parts House69.6919.3989.08 
Procaliber69.0519.9689.01free shipping over $99
Nelson's Speed Shop84.9912.0096.99 
Dealer Cost Parts89.9918.07103.06 
Edited by Weapon
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Good call going to a SERIES R/R (e.g. SH-775). Remember any test you do with an ohmmeter (or diode tester) is a NO LOAD TEST. So if it fails fine probably bad. If it passes don't assume it is good. The jumping voltage while running is surely the R/R unless for some reason your meter is wonkers.

 

The VAC leg to leg tests are supposed to all be at 5000 RPM and measure over about 65 VAC with 80VAC being the typical value. Additional tests are to test leg to ground also at 5K RPM and you should see ZERO VAC ; the stator should be isolated from chassis and engine! You could do the test with an ohmmeter producing a powerful 3V :). But if there is 80VAC on the stator that is a much higher voltage the stators insulation must withstand to keep from picking up voltage on ground.

Edited by posplayr
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