stevie747

Cheers bud, last part needed to finish repairs after this.... (BTW the c*** isn't the one holding the pen )

Don't go bigger than standard profile tyres if you've got standard wheels - unless you want to wreck the handling. Pretty much all modern rubber is 10 times better than what was around in the 80's.

No, that's the superseded part number ending in 200, the original one ended in 100. All the ones I can find now are these:

Hi, does anyone know if it's possible to source NOS or repro's of the original black genny cover emblem 68233-45100

I might have a spare one

Like a 18" rear wheel

S has a dash mounted choke, so the carbs are wrong, as is EVERYTHING else, including the frame.... it's NOT an S. You can convert it to an S, if you can find the parts, but it'll cost you twice as much as the bike would be worth

So here's mime Answers on a postcard, although I have another shed...

Has this turned into 'what's in my shed'

Everything, check my photo, as I explained at the top, the obvious start is that S has a 18" rear wheel and totally different clocks/fairing - which are both rocking horse shit £££. Your photo is an E with 17" rear wheel etc. etc.

You should have...

They probably do as the engines are basically the same and they were sold in parallel

The ST is a GS1000S, and the ET is a GS1000E, I guess you know the difference with these? This is an S (mostly ) If it's been painted and hasn't got a fairing the biggest clue is that the S has an 18" rear wheel and the E has a 17" one, the S also has a clock in the dash. Like for like the S can also be worth up to twice as much

Thanks bud. Any guys out there know of UK distributors?

Are these available in the uK?

OK, got a new battery and these are the readings: Referring the the 'quick checks' you mentioned above: Key off = 12.8V Key on = 12.4V Key on with lights on -= 12.2V Idle (1500rpm) = all over the place, from 0 to 13+V, the same when revved to 5000 rpm (red wire from r/r to battery still gets hot when running) Key off = 12.9V Rechecked the stator with the new battery: Resistance between the stator wires (after subtracting the resistance of the tester leads) W/B and G/W = 0.8 ohms, Y and W/B = 0.8 ohms and G/W and Y = 0.9 ohms. AC voltage when running measured between the three stator wires (meter set to 200ACV) = all three combinations read about 18V at 1500 rpm, 30V at 2000 rpm and 45V+ at 4000+ rpm. So it looks like the R/R....? Ironically I tested the R/R according to Electrex World troubleshooting sheet and it passed! The test was to check the DIODE readings by measuring the three yellow wires alternatly with both the red and black wires from the R/R. The readings should be between 'OV'350 and 550 both ways - and they were. The readings were all around 460 to 470 cold, and 380 to 400 warm...... As I don't really know what I'm doing, is it possible for the unit to be knackered despite this? If it is, one of the links referred to 'shunt' versions of R/R's and something else? Anyone know if the Electrex World (they are crap at answering questions) version (RR10) is good to replace the old RR10 I've got? Cheers

No... but will now, cheers bud.

Hi all, anyone have an idiots guide to testing the charging circuit for GS1000's I've deffo got a problem somewhere in the charging circuit or reg/rec (it's an aftermarket Eletrexworld one I've had in there for over 20 years!) as a good battery is discharged enough to not be able to crank the bike over after about 10 miles running. I've tested the three separate genny outputs and the meter reads 34V, 35V and 34V, when running at around 2,000 rpm. Do these look OK? Also the red wire coming out of the reg/rec gets hot when it's running.