SRAD yoke into GSXR-W

[Legotoy]

Not a full on project, but since my OE forks are knackered I fancied something different on the front end. Also just for the joy of mixing and matching parts.

I'm going to use SRAD 600 yokes in my 1992 GSXR 'fighter, and put some Trumpet Daytona forks in them - 45mm forks legs if you're interested.

The forks slip straight in obviously.

 

[Legotoy]

I paid a lot for my paint job, so the other good news is I think I can reuse the GSXR mudguard with the Daytona brackets since the mounts on the Trumpy are just plastic clips around the fork legs.

 

[Legotoy]

To save hassle I got the complete wheel, spindle, speedo etc from the Trumpet. The SRAD 600 yokes are 2mm narrower between centres than the Daytona, so when dry fitted the wheel is 4mm from right, and 6mm from the left.

Needs a 1mm spacer between the right fork leg and outside of speedo drive to line it up. Amazingly close though...

 

[Legotoy]

The other thing is I can't reuse my GSXR Nissins, since the Suzuki is 90mm as we all know, but Triumph specced 83mm between bolt centres.

so I have the Daytona calipers - debadged of course! I can swap over my new sintered pads between calipers though as they are the same fitment otherwise.

 

[Legotoy]

Here's a good tip I read recently - hammering a 'cast' finish back onto the caliper halves using very coarse sandpaper and a mallet.

Hopefully the pics show the difference. I'll give them a coat of paint to further blend in the finish.

 

[Legotoy]

Just taking the lock stops off the SRAD lower yoke - haven't decided whether to add stops to the frame or yoke yet...

 

[markfoggy]

Nicely. 

[Legotoy]

If anyone else is doing the Marksman bearing mod to swap a SRAD front into an older GSXR then just be aware the machined top race has very little meat left to get a drift on -  makes it very tricky to seat in the frame!

Edited February 20, 2017 by Legotoy
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[Legotoy]

I'm also thinking of welding the old stops back on but in the right place to actually offer some steering lock!

Edited February 20, 2017 by Legotoy
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[caferacerdan]

i thoguht with the marksman bearing you used the stock top race and it was a custom bearing? as putting a TL yoke/stem on my slingy and have heard that

[Legotoy]

The Marksman bearing is a complete top bearing, need to use the race it is supplied with. SRAD stems are much thicker at top, so need a wider bearing. Marksman remove material from the race itself to get it to fit back in the headstock. You can use the standard early GSXR lower bearing on the bottom though.

[caferacerdan]

Wow marksman bearings ordered yesterday and arrived today! Do you know in what order all the spacers go on in by any chance as I havent got a Scooby Doo!

[Legotoy]

Hi, I didn't have a clue either to be honest. I did a dry fit and it didn't seem that the spacers were needed.

One thing though is that because the top race is much wider than standard it will be IMPOSSIBLE to remove once seated. That's because there is no lip to get a driver under. For that reason I did not seat the top race all the way when doing a dry build, so I could lever it out later.

I would suggest using the spacers under the bearing race, so the spacer can be used to drive out the bearing should you ever need to change it. Again I haven't tried as I plan to stack them up and see once I'm ready for final fit.

[Legotoy]

I decided to get a professional finish on my callipers and forks - look nice I think! They will get painted though but shiny parts are very satisfying.

[markfoggy]

On 3/2/2017 at 1:55 PM, Legotoy said:

Hi, I didn't have a clue either to be honest. I did a dry fit and it didn't seem that the spacers were needed.

One thing though is that because the top race is much wider than standard it will be IMPOSSIBLE to remove once seated. That's because there is no lip to get a driver under. For that reason I did not seat the top race all the way when doing a dry build, so I could lever it out later.

I would suggest using the spacers under the bearing race, so the spacer can be used to drive out the bearing should you ever need to change it. Again I haven't tried as I plan to stack them up and see once I'm ready for final fit.

I always, always, cut some meat out from under the bearing seat with a windy tool and a burr before trying to get a bearing outer, out. A Dremmel will do, makes the job so much easier and you never know when you might need to do the job again.

[caferacerdan]

Easiest way for me to remove race is put a screwdriver under race from the top of frame and get someone to punch the screw driver from underneath

[Legotoy]

On 3/6/2017 at 9:05 PM, markfoggy said:

I always, always, cut some meat out from under the bearing...

Top tip! Thanks.

[Bigkenxx]

Another way is mig weld around inner race and the weld contracts the race and a tap will knock it out use the same technique on roller wheel bearings 

[Legotoy]

To bling up the callipers I had some Re-branding done. Yes it's cheating, but looks awesome IMO!

[Swiss Toni]

Interesting post! Always good to put up measurements when 'mix and matching'. Shows the feasibility of changing things for us! I had the same problem with 'immovable outer races' on the Blandit a while ago. Tried for a few days with drifts, screwdrivers ect. Finally gave up and bought the proper tool for around £18. 10 mins, job done. A good dodge, if you were replacing head races was, grind two (or three) notches into the bearing seat in the steering head before fitting the outer race. Gives something to locate the drift on when removing the cup!