Dynojet kits

[Rsk_141]

I may have a small issue of running a bit lean.

Got a St 3 dynojet kit Heard there ok but factory pro kit are better, any thoughts?

 

[Captain Chaos]

yes in my experience FP is better.

Checked float height?

[t3rse]

Are you sure it's lean?

[Rsk_141]

On 28/06/2016 at 1:45 AM, t3rse said:

Are you sure it's lean?

Could be, not sure, without anything to compare them to, it hard to tell

(Trying to build a case to rob the holiday fund for a set of 36mm RS carbs, )

 

 

[tabby59]

What bike/year/carbs do you have?

 

[Rsk_141]

Gsxr 1100 86 34mm

[tabby59]

OK, next question, what jets, needle, fuel screw settings are you using? The more you give us, the better we can diagnose what your bike is doing.

[Rsk_141]

Standard book, jets needles and pilot settings, can't remember what they are but we're check against book.

[tabby59]

If everything is indeed DynoJet Stg3, I would see if you can get a copy of the initial setup sheet or instructions. I've installed several DynoJet kits and have had few, if any problems, with the initial setup. It always helps to go back to basics and baselines, then make one change at a time. Typically, I'll install the smallest main jets that came with the kit, set the fuel screws at the recommended settings, install the jet needles at the baseline setting. I'll start tuning by dropping the needles until drivability suffers. If it is already being fussy, I'll still drop the needles to confirm whether it is indeed lean or rich. If it gets worse, it is already lean. If it gets better, then it was too rich. I always shoot for just enough needle height above being too lean. Once that is settled, then I'll start to see how little fuel screw I'll need to maintain a smooth idle. On my 86 GSXR750, using 87 34mm carbs, it would idle fine and carburate with as little as a 1/2 turn of screw. I save the main jet for last, and usually will make that decision with the help of the drag strip.

[Rsk_141]

Thanks for that much appreciated 

G.