GsxR 1000 ti headers under fairing

[Rsk_141]

Do GsxR 1000 ti headers fit under standard 86 body work lowers?

 

[canamant]

They don't clear the frame cross tube if it's a 750.  If it's an 1100 you'd have to bend them tight under the engine (if they clear the cross tube).  Some say this is hard, others easy.  Unless you use heat they will spring back.

 

[Rsk_141]

Thanks for the reply yeah I have seen the videos etc of getting the pipes to bend under, but I was wondering, just as the front  pipes bend under the frame, even if it were to be heated and bent it still looks to be sticking out too much for the fairing to go on with out melting the front V or exit area right rear lower. Which if it was a SF project it would be no problem.

 

[Del]

Short stroke 750 no,but the slabby and slingshot long strokes and 1100's yes
Mine pulled right up and had no need to use heat(and they didn't spring back when i removed them)

Then with the full fairing(Mine uses 750 bodywork)on  

And then my Brother had them fitted to his 1100 with 750 full  fairing. I did need to trim a corner at the back of the bellypan,but that was more to do with the linkpipe  

 

[Rsk_141]

Cheers Del,

can you remember what the OD of the pipe is so I can source a link pipe/end can.

[370steve]

which model GSXR 1000 are the ones to fit?

[Del]

38 minutes ago, 370steve said:

which model GSXR 1000 are the ones to fit?

K1-4

 

 

[stellafella]

K1 and k2 1000 deffo, got some k2  ones on my slingshot 11, dont know about later pipes

Edited June 27, 2016 by stellafella

[Del]

2 hours ago, Rsk_141 said:

Cheers Del,

can you remember what the OD of the pipe is so I can source a link pipe/end can.

I'll have a search in the shed,i may have a piece of the old  link pipe kicking about.

The link pipe on mine was a Carbon Can Company 1000k5 link pipe and the cans were 52mm(I've used miron,ART and Harpoon cans) exit

 

[370steve]

cheers for the info guys 

[Rsk_141]

Apart from the weight loss the net benefit of the swap should be more midrange due to the 4 into 2 into 1 arrangement, any draw backs to the swap?

[Del]

18 hours ago, Rsk_141 said:

Apart from the weight loss the net benefit of the swap should be more midrange due to the 4 into 2 into 1 arrangement, any draw backs to the swap?

I found no drawbacks,I only got rid of them(wish i hadn't)because I fitted a one off gsx1400 hi-level system( I sold the Ti headersto a freind for his srad6/7). When i ran it on the dyno,it made 136bhp with the 1000 system and was a nice spread of power

And just for the curious ones out there,this was the gsx1400 system(bargain at £70 ) on mine.It had a crossover section,that i had to chop out and blank off(it interfered witht the sump),so it was like the 2 x 2 into 1 sytems that were on the 750j/k.  I am going to try a 4-1 now,just to see what the difference is to the 4-2-2/4-2-1 systems(I know about the mid range differences,but want to see for myself.Never noticed much of a difference when i did it to my old slabby 750).I now have a Micron 4-1 from a Gsxr750L(yep they do fit,just need b6/12 sump)fitted.I also have a set of Marshalll 4-1 headers,that were off an 1100efe,that i modded to fit

Edited June 29, 2016 by Del

[370steve]

On 6/26/2016 at 11:07 PM, Del said:

Short stroke 750 no,but the slabby and slingshot long strokes and 1100's yes
Mine pulled right up and had no need to use heat(and they didn't spring back when i removed them)

 

Then with the full fairing(Mine uses 750 bodywork)on  

And then my Brother had them fitted to his 1100 with 750 full  fairing. I did need to trim a corner at the back of the bellypan,but that was more to do with the linkpipe  
 

 

how did you go about spreading the headers and bending the rear of the headers up under the engine?

[busa ash]

plumbers torch and a car jack for under the engine ,

gently with the spreading of headers i had spare engine on the floor  fitted  the  outer two header pipes too the engine and warmed the header pipes 

[Del]

On 01/07/2016 at 5:04 PM, 370steve said:

how did you go about spreading the headers and bending the rear of the headers up under the engine?

I put number 1 in first and then number 4,then 2 & 3 just dropped in with a tug(2/3 are near enough the same spacing as the oil-cooled 2/3),then I pulled it up with the link pipe/can and my Knee wedged under the can while I fitted the strap
I have never once had to use heat on them or any major force. After a while they pretty much stay in that postion.I fitted the same headers to the srad,slingshot and slabby this way

One thing to remember,is to remove the centre brace on number 2&3 header

 

Edited July 3, 2016 by Del

[canamant]

I did try a set of these on my 1100 but took them off and fitted a purpose made system.  I didn't like the way they were still slightly sprung.  For me any stress is a bad thing.  The Mountain Course will find any weakness and exploit it.  I think Del might just have struck lucky.  Most K1 K4 pipes seem to need a lot of heating/bending to go into place.