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Time to start cleaning again


p4ddy

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Posted (edited)

Decided to get the dremmel out and wire brush attachments and start cleaning up the old head. The exhaust valve need the thing at full speed and a fair length of time but I've not done the 2 you see. Still not sure what to do about the broken exhaust ports

 

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Edited by p4ddy
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I'd build it up with bunch of filler rod and then grind to shape with rotary tools? That doesn't look like a big damage do a head...

Edited by Kristjan
Posted

this will go tit,s up p4ddy............. your working in that shed again ???  O.o what about metal filler once the pipe is fitted or sum exhaust collar,s made to fit ............. or buy a good eng ...........;)

Posted

You trying to get me to buy that b12 lump again? I was wondering if jb weld would hold out lol. You have no faith in my skills Dave

Posted

p4ddy you have worked on that bike so much you must no it inside out ;) and i am sure you will get it right :D then you will want more power O.o

Posted (edited)

Might be easy to get another head mate, but if you want Ive got a  torch and or welder you can use, and I'll dig out the first aid kit for you as well:P

give me a shout if you wanna  borrow it

Edited by stellafella
  • Like 2
Posted

It's the valve seats themselves that are the critical area. Are you planning to strip the valves out and inspect the valves and seat contact surfaces? Be careful with the dremel that you don't take anything off the flat mating surfaces of the head around and between the valves. The broken exhaust port needs to be ally welded.

Posted

I wasn't planning on touching the valve seats. I'm only cleaning up the faces with soft wire brush attachments. The other head is of a later slingshot (m i think) which is identical other that 1mm larger inlet valves and that's in good nik but i'm reusing my old one because i know it works. I lapped the valves on the new one and i've had endless starting and running issues, so i plan on doing as little as poss to this head to ovoid anything i 'may' have fucked up before. I've ultrasonically cleaned the carbs and i have a set of dyna coils to fit (when my mate pulls his finger out and looks for them). The barrels are good and still have all the cross hatch glaze busting marks, pistons and rings all spot on.

Thanks Noel, i'm a bit nervous of doing it as i've not touched a welder in 21yrs and that was to weld my lc centre stand together. If i had the broken bits it would be much easier but it's just too bloody great chunks missing. I had to use two gaskets to stop it blowing but if i can get it tixed whilst it's off it'll be great.

Posted

I got some ally welding done on a set of crank cases by a local engineering company a couple of years ago and it cost me £30. Worth phoning around to find out what it would cost. Doesn't cost anything to find out.

Posted

stupid forum wouldn't let me remove that so I had to post it, grrrr.

 

Anyhow yea I met your mate when I bought my wheel round with it's bearing issue.

Posted

i can get it done p4ddy but you would have to post it or get it to brands hatch for the weekend or is it the following w.end bsb ? and it,s ok to use 2 gasket,s there was a eng on g.bay for $150 use it for spares ........:P

Posted

i can get it done p4ddy but you would have to post it or get it to brands hatch for the weekend or is it the following w.end bsb ? and it,s ok to use 2 gasket,s there was a eng on g.bay for $150 use it for spares ........:P

Iam up next weekend to brands Dave, have to meet up for a beer if you fancy;)

Posted

I got some ally welding done on a set of crank cases by a local engineering company a couple of years ago and it cost me £30. Worth phoning around to find out what it would cost. Doesn't cost anything to find out.

that's a bargain compared to what the local shop here wanted to ask me....and the bike was completely assembled. so all that work for just a small alu welde of about 4 inches he was asking 150+

i think they were trying to con me

Posted

It's the valve seats themselves that are the critical area. Are you planning to strip the valves out and inspect the valves and seat contact surfaces? Be careful with the dremel that you don't take anything off the flat mating surfaces of the head around and between the valves. The broken exhaust port needs to be ally welded.

it's is worth checking out the valves indeed as you already have everything disassembled

Posted

I agree BUT because the bike ran fine with it I'm reluctant to mess with them after doing all the work on the other head and it then ran like shit which got me chasing the issue with no success.

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