7/11 Oil Pan Debacle

[djayedot]

Hi Guys, hope I don't ramble on too much here (if any of you have seen my other posts, you'll know it's a very real possibility)...

Been super busy relocating my shop lately, and haven't been able to pay much attention to my poor beloved watercooler... Nonetheless, I have (lazily) pressed on with some side quests in the background. One of which is to get my favorite exhaust system back on to the bike (I had to shelf my preferred exhaust during the 1100 swap due to time constraints. Ended up going with a garden variety Yosh 4-1 1100W header with a BOGUS POS SC Project silencer for the remainder of that season.) That 4-1 header has now cracked pretty bad at the collector after a light season of use, and I'd rather not repair it.

The "preferred" exhaust in question is a (somewhat uncommon) ti/cf WINGS exhaust (manufactured in New Zealand, IIRC) originally intended for a KTM 1190 Adventure bike. I acquired this silencer via my old job years ago, and I like the way that it sounds ALOT. I built the setup back when the bike was still a 600 with a Yosh 4-2-1, and fabbed up a pretty nice Cerakoted midpipe for it (at the expense of my period-correct Yoshimura piece which I probably shouldn't have cannibalized, in retrospect.) 

I still have the headers, midpipe, silencer, and bracket. Would love to just throw it on but of course, there is the pressing issue of 600/750 vs. 1100 oil pan... (1100 has a mostly centered sump while 600/750 is smushed off to one side).

I got a little trigger happy the other night and ordered a 750W oil pan, pickup tube, and gasket, thinking that I had the whole scheme figured out. Guess I had a few too many beers, because I overlooked the whole oil cooler port issue... Oops.

I've been studying the two pans side by side for a minute and have come to a few conclusions... One- in an 1100W application both sides of the cooler are fed by the exact same oil pump output gallery??? And Two- the only thing that induces pressure differential/flow across the cooler is the little orifice plug which is inserted in to the 1100 pans only??? (Looks like a 1/8" NPT pipe plug with a hole drilled in it, Suzuki part number is: 11532-46E00).

 

With all of that said, here comes my real question: can I remove the front plug in the 600/750 pan, tap the bore (further back, past the first vertical hole, just as it is in 1100 applications)  for the oil jet in question, and run my OEM 1100W external oil cooler? (The return port would be via AN line back in to the location of the SIDE plug in the 600/750 oil pan).

It makes sense in my head, but I've been wrong plenty of times before... I guess I'm a little gun-shy about this because 1- it's literally the most important fluid system in the entire bike, and 2- the oil pressure sending unit is in a different location vs. 1100W equivalents. I've thought about it a little, and I believe the oil pressure warning light will still function as intended, only difference being if there is an abnormal restriction in my external cooler the light may not trigger if there is another failure further down the line???

 

Am I tripping balls or on the right track here?

 

 

Edited June 21, 2023 by djayedot

[Captain Chaos]

Pics would help here.

[djayedot]

1 minute ago, Captain Chaos said:

Pics would help here.

Will do, I JUST brought the damn 750 pan back to my storage but I'll go get it soon and draw some diagrams over it, to make some of this nonsense clearer...

[Joseph]

yes, pics please

interesting because i have also got a 7/11W in the works and had not thought about sump differences

that said, the 1100 and all RF share the same sump, but the RF is single exhaust. that means the sump is compatible with a 4 into 1, unlike the 1100 OC sump.

the 750 sump is probably offset because the OE header is 4 into 2, so they needed the clearance for the 2 downpipe tubes to live side by side under the engine

that said, what you describe as far as mods to the 750 sump does sound possible

[djayedot]

Alright guys,

I keep going to my shop and forgetting to take pics of the new pan, so forget it, I just pulled some pics from some various Eblag listings to illustrate what I'm trying to do here.

 

First  two photos are of a stock 1100W pan (this is exactly how my bike is set up right now).

RED Dot = oil pump discharge

BLUE Dot = oil flow to filter pad (oil filter inlet)

YELLOW = Bypass valve and oil pressure sensor locations (different between the two pans) Also denotes location of the STOCK oil flow restrictor orifice plug "X".

GREEN = Original 1100W external oil cooler flow path.

 

Second two photos are of 750W pans.

RED Dot = oil pump discharge

BLUE Dot = oil flow to filter pad (oil filter inlet)

YELLOW = Bypass valve and oil pressure sensor locations (different between the two pans)

PINK = Proposed installation area for OEM oil flow restrictor orifice plug

GREEN = Proposed oil cooler flow path (return line will be custom AN line to allow return in to side of pan)

Soooooooo with all of that said.... What do you guys think the chances of me blowing my shit up the second I hit the starter button is, if I decide to attempt this??? It seems simple enough, but the PRV's and oil pressure switches being in different locations has me a little worried, lol.

Thanks in advance.

 

 

Edited June 28, 2023 by djayedot
Photos out of order

[djayedot]

UPDATE:

I stared at these drawings for a solid 1-2 beers and have made a few observations (please correct me if I'm wrong here).

1- I believe my arrows for oil cooler flow path are actually backwards, hole with the restrictor orifice down it's bore will actually be cooler RETURN.

2- It is definitely important AF that however I do this, the PRV is UPSTREAM from the newly installed restrictor orifice (upstream in terms of oil pump discharge path). If not, a pump overload situation may occur at high RPM.

Edited June 28, 2023 by djayedot

[djayedot]

On 6/22/2023 at 5:32 AM, Joseph said:

yes, pics please

interesting because i have also got a 7/11W in the works and had not thought about sump differences

that said, the 1100 and all RF share the same sump, but the RF is single exhaust. that means the sump is compatible with a 4 into 1, unlike the 1100 OC sump.

the 750 sump is probably offset because the OE header is 4 into 2, so they needed the clearance for the 2 downpipe tubes to live side by side under the engine

that said, what you describe as far as mods to the 750 sump does sound possible

Thanks for the reply bro. Yes header style differences are definitely (well at least in my opinion) why they made these pans different (also, they probably wanted to save money by running a pancake style heat exchanger on the lower-heat models).

Now, here's hoping the 750 headers are tall enough to work on my wonky ass setup... How much taller is the 1100W deck height compared to a 750??? I'm worried tops of primaries may be awfully close to bottom of oil pan...

Edited June 28, 2023 by djayedot