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  • 3 months later...
Posted (edited)

I have the same issue on my SB6 playing about.  Driving me around the bend. Fitted new CR9EIX (genuine, there is a lot of fakes, see NGK Nittera website on how to spot the difference.) and it quickly dropped a pot (No3) & now no2 is missing. lf l pull the  leads whilst it is running with my plug pliers, there is a huge spark in the plug well. Should I try a set of  CR9EAK?

Edited by Tre
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Right, OK, genuine new NGK Iridium plugs(yes, I can spot the counterfeits, they are getting harder to spot, but don't contain iridium!), from Deemon Tweeks. Absoulte 100% genuine.  Swapped out to NGK CR9EK. Boom, ran straight up(no #3 not getting as hot as the other pots using my laser heat gun!). Checked the TD T-150 3351017E11 plug caps, all between 10.4 - 11. Checked the ignition coil 17E00 J0291 / 129700-2910 windings resistiance from plug to plug, with & without caps. All OK. Decided The expensive iridium CR9EIX plugs are not suited to this old Girl! 

Need to get it hot & re-check pot #3!  I will do a cylinder efficency test & a compression test next. Need to make an end to fit the tester pipes. Guess I found a buse for the CR9EIX in the end(waste of money). So, what have we learned from this fiasco??

 

To be fair, this post has lead me down the right path, thanks to the creator. 10/10

Edited by Tre
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12 hours ago, Tre said:

So, what have we learned from this fiasco??

Don't use plugs, not designed for the engine! Just because they fit, doesn't mean they will work correctly!

Iridium plugs are designed for and suited to, fuel injected lean burn engines. In a carb'd engine they never run lean enough to burn off contaminates and fail too easily. Their use in turbo'd applications is moody also - due to the heat and cylinder pressures the Iridium tip can glow and lead to pre-ignition and detonation with all the good stuff that usually produces

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