fergmc Posted November 15, 2015 Posted November 15, 2015 Hi, I have just finished the first part of my winter fixes and that is replacing the old shock with a YSS Z series from wemoto. Okay im no gru on suspension to be perfectly honest so am looking for basic help in getting my '03 750 teapot to work as good as it can now. The front as you prob know only has rebound settings for adjustment and the new shock has preload and rebound. So to avoid a choppy ride on the wee bike what is a good base setting i.e. how fast (roughly) should the back and front come back up again? Is there a particular order that the front comes up first or the back comes up first? I know there are youtube videos but I am looking to find out how the 750 really handles as I seem to only be able to get bouncy or choppy at best. Looking for some pointers before the next project of putting straight or proper handlebars on.Thanksferg Quote
Oilyspanner Posted November 15, 2015 Posted November 15, 2015 Takes a while to bounce on the front or rear end and tell what needs to be done Ferg - but basically if you quickly push it down and it recovers very quickly you need more rebound. If the oil in the forks is old, chances are you will have little rebound adjustment in the front as the oil gets thinner with use. Best set spring sag first though - like this http://racetech.com/articles/SuspensionAndSprings.htmFrom there use the adjuster to correct the action, to slow down the action or quicken it, start from the middle point of adjustment. I have a test route when I set-up suspension, this helps to confirm the changes work properly. Good luck, you'll get there Bud ! Quote
Rene EFE Posted November 15, 2015 Posted November 15, 2015 Basesetting: sit the bike up straight and push down on the seat. It should move up and down equally front and back. 1 Quote
markfoggy Posted November 15, 2015 Posted November 15, 2015 Get a friend to help. You need static Sag about right or you're probably end up casing ghosts as your spring rates might be way out.Fit small cable ties to the front and rear, these tell-tales can stay on the bike forever once you get it right.Lift the bike and let it settle on a the ground front and rear, you're best off doing this a couple of times.You want that front cable tie to move about 22-28mm and the rear one(s) to be about 5-15mm.If it's not in this sort of range, you've probably got the wrong springs in there.Hold the bike upright and bounce the back end. It should be firm on the way down and come up with some obvious resistance,always worth sticking the clickers in their mid position when you do this.Stick the front brake on and bounce the front. Should be some obvious slowness/resistance as it comes up.Now this is where your mate comes in, plus, possibly a.n.other.Hold the bike upright and then push down on the saddle, lots. What you want is the bike to pop back up horizontal. If it appears to favour one end or the other, slow it down with an extra click of rebound damping until you've got a bike that stays level on it's way up. It's all in the eye and happens in a very short time frame, but is absolutely crucial to setting up a bike that will work well. 3 Quote
fergmc Posted November 15, 2015 Author Posted November 15, 2015 Takes a while to bounce on the front or rear end and tell what needs to be done Ferg - but basically if you quickly push it down and it recovers very quickly you need more rebound. If the oil in the forks is old, chances are you will have little rebound adjustment in the front as the oil gets thinner with use. Best set spring sag first though - like this http://racetech.com/articles/SuspensionAndSprings.htmFrom there use the adjuster to correct the action, to slow down the action or quicken it, start from the middle point of adjustment. I have a test route when I set-up suspension, this helps to confirm the changes work properly. Good luck, you'll get there Bud ! Thanks thats a great article with plenty to read and do. We will get there. Quote
fergmc Posted November 15, 2015 Author Posted November 15, 2015 Get a friend to help. You need static Sag about right or you're probably end up casing ghosts as your spring rates might be way out.Fit small cable ties to the front and rear, these tell-tales can stay on the bike forever once you get it right.Lift the bike and let it settle on a the ground front and rear, you're best off doing this a couple of times.You want that front cable tie to move about 22-28mm and the rear one(s) to be about 5-15mm.If it's not in this sort of range, you've probably got the wrong springs in there.Hold the bike upright and bounce the back end. It should be firm on the way down and come up with some obvious resistance,always worth sticking the clickers in their mid position when you do this.Stick the front brake on and bounce the front. Should be some obvious slowness/resistance as it comes up.Now this is where your mate comes in, plus, possibly a.n.other.Hold the bike upright and then push down on the saddle, lots. What you want is the bike to pop back up horizontal. If it appears to favour one end or the other, slow it down with an extra click of rebound damping until you've got a bike that stays level on it's way up. It's all in the eye and happens in a very short time frame, but is absolutely crucial to setting up a bike that will work well.Again thanks for the information - next week will be a busy one. Quote
fergmc Posted November 15, 2015 Author Posted November 15, 2015 Basesetting: sit the bike up straight and push down on the seat. It should move up and down equally front and back. Thanks wasnt sure about this at all. Quote
fergmc Posted November 15, 2015 Author Posted November 15, 2015 Sorry about the dirt in the pic. The roads are boggin round here at moment and even oiling the chain once a week cant keep the rust off. Quote
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