Roger P. Posted February 26, 2021 Posted February 26, 2021 I can't seem to get proper clutch release on an 1990 (?) 1127 motor with a Bandit 1200 MkII sprocket cover and Bandit MkII master. With B12 slave cylinder I was getting between 1mm and 1,25mm clutch movement. With the bike in gear I couldn't budge the rear tire with the clutch lever pulled back to the bar. I took out every bit of slack I could find, so much so that the dial indicator would begin to register as soon as any movement of the lever was initiated. I even put in a second thrust bearing and washer on the end of the push piece from the remains of my B12 motor, but to no avail. I figured the larger bore of the B12 slave was stealing some stroke, so I bought the proper 1100 slave and installed it tonight. Clutch travel has increased to about 1.9mm but I still can't spin the tire with the clutch pulled. Does anyone have the spec for clutch movement with all the stock parts? I am leery of throwing more money at it since it might just be stiction in the clutch pack of a cold assembly, what with my arm probably not giving the clutch the same boot up the arse as an idling engine. I vaguely recall the GSXR clutch master being 16mm, but I'm not sure. Plates are used and well oil soaked, but have been in and out a few times. The clutch slave cylinder push shaft is custom length and much longer than original. It seem to be of the proper length to utilize the entire stroke of the current master. Any advice appreciated. Quote
TonyGee Posted February 26, 2021 Posted February 26, 2021 have you tried it with the engine running ? it can make a difference. it could be just the plates sticking. i had a reverse problem with my 1200, clutch worked fine when the engine was cold but when hot the clutch would slip, rebuilt the entire system to no avail so done away with it ( as i just couldn't be arsed fucking about ) and used a 600 cover and cable. problem sorted. Quote
Roger P. Posted March 5, 2021 Author Posted March 5, 2021 Well, didn't even need to start it. Cold engine, cranked it over until my lithiun ion booster pack quit and I can drag the rear wheel by hand with it in gear and the clutch in. Amazing how such a little amount of oil can make such a huge difference. Quote
Roger P. Posted May 18, 2021 Author Posted May 18, 2021 Spoke too soon as usual. Clutch is being a real bastard to troublehoot. I took out all of my slack adjusters and ended up with the exact same travel, so the problem lies somewhere else. I noticed a fair bit of endplay in the clutch shaft itself. Is there an acceptable limit? I can't find any dimension to check against. Even when the whole clutch is installed, I can manually move the clutch assembly up and down a small amount. Something doesn't seem right. If it needs splitting the cases I'm just going to part this sucker out. The clutch hub and basket have mild ridging, not really enough to worry about. I have a Bandit clutch I can throw in for troubleshooting, but I don't think it's going to make a diffrence. Quote
Roger P. Posted June 6, 2021 Author Posted June 6, 2021 Well, I decided to install the transmission from my Gen II GSF1200 motor and I have hit a snag. The output shaft bearing won't line up with the retainer clip in the case. If I try to move the shaft out far enough to engage the clip, the gear hits the case. Is this just a matter of repositioning the bearing on the shaft, or do I need to order an 1127 bearing to make it work? Quote
Lachie04 Posted June 6, 2021 Posted June 6, 2021 That wouldn't be right I know the 1127 bearing is 19mm the gen 11 1200 should be 21,6mm according to the parts fiche Quote
Roger P. Posted June 7, 2021 Author Posted June 7, 2021 Bugger. Looks like I need a new bearing then, as the shaft has the same part# as the 1127 motor. Interestingly enough, the GSF cases from 2003 onward are Bandit items only, so I guess this was the change reflected in the part # differences. These motors are not quite as mix and match as I thought. Quote
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