Lloyd Hewer Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 Engine is currently stripped down completely ready to be prepped, painted and rebuilt. What's the best way to remove all old paint? I've been steered away from any sort of blasting as I'll never get shot of all the grit which could cause major problems during running. Engine is a 750 from a slabby.Does anyone have any experience and what do they think is best.Thanks Quote Link to comment
Gixer1460 Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 Engine is currently stripped down completely ready to be prepped, painted and rebuilt. What's the best way to remove all old paint? I've been steered away from any sort of blasting as I'll never get shot of all the grit which could cause major problems during running. Engine is a 750 from a slabby.Does anyone have any experience and what do they think is best.Thanks Its bastard stuff to remove which is usually a good thing! - chemical dipping probably the best way + it'll clean out a lot of the oil galleries especially if 'hot tanked' at an engine builders afterwards! Quote Link to comment
Danm54 Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 Langlow strip away pro is the stuff I used, supposed to only be sold to trade apparently but you can pick it up online. Only thing it didn't touch was the paint on a magnesium cover so I assume suzuki use something different on them. Quote Link to comment
markfoggy Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 That Magnesium cover was probably chromated, so possible best left alone for what I'm about to suggest next. If you blast chromated magnesium you have to get it re-finished straight away, otherwise it'll start corroding almost instantly and you yet worm holes forming in the casting which will lead to it falling apart really quickly. You could paint it, but it's not really what you should be doing.Over at P1 Towers, we've soda blasted a complete lump during this year. End results were a bit patchy and it was a little expensive as the soda is a disposable media and the blasters will get through a shit load doing this. Soda is water soluble, so it doesn't wreck fine engine internals in the same way that grit/ aqua will. You'll need really good plugs for all holes though. Serious prep work before it's started. Oil change pretty quickly too, no idea what happens to engine oil when you add Baking Powder, but I'm guessing it wouldn't be good for longevity.Biggest trouble is finding a blaster with the right/big enough rig to take on the job. The 'Key' that is left behind, definitely isn't good enough for powder coat, but if you used an etch primer before a HT top coat I reckon that you'd get good results. Ours stayed au natural and was then stripped down and rebuilt. I was quicker to do it this way than strip, send to aqua blast, get it back and then rebuild from scratch.Good luck.If anybody knows anywhere where they use Walnut Kernal, I'm all ears. 1 Quote Link to comment
Markz9 Posted December 13, 2015 Share Posted December 13, 2015 I've have used a local company that vapour blast the cases, finish on an old z900 set crankcases were stunning and it slightly closes the surface off the alloy so won't oxidise so quickly I have had an engine soda blasted and wouldn't do it again Quote Link to comment
VJ Posted December 13, 2015 Share Posted December 13, 2015 New style nitromors is shite as they removed the main ingredient, however you can get it on its own on the evil Quote Link to comment
VJ Posted December 13, 2015 Share Posted December 13, 2015 dicloromethane, thats the stuff you want Quote Link to comment
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