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Cylinders, Round Two.


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Hi, again. I did quite a bit of work on the GS750 today. When I was packing up to come home I thought I would start her.

Only ran on three again, cylinder 3 again. So I checked ;  coils, plugs ( swapped with old seemed to make a difference to the overall running, I may have bought knock offs on Eblag) . With all the testing and swapping, tank on, tank off, tank on, I lost track a little, anyway, now runs on cylinder three, only not on cylinder four. Also swapped the vacuum hose for the tank, from 2 to 1 carb.

When I found out it swapped cylinders ,I checked/ swapped plugs, and leads,  to various cylinders, no difference.

I can guess, its some fleck of dirt in my spotlessly clean carb 4 ,but  I cant think of anything else. If I run it with the plug out  on 4, theres no vapour comes out.

Would revving hard in neutral bring in the other jet and produce vapour?

Also a bit of a coincidence, isint it?  3 then 4 but different reasons?

Any ideas?

 

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If the cylinder isn't running at all I would suspect the ignition, if the cylinder runs when you give it more throttle it would be the idle in the carburetor.

 

Do you have a stroboscobe to adjust ignition? If yes, connected to the cilinder what isn't running, if the strobe works you have oignition and the cause would be in the carburetor.

Are all screws and needles adjusted in the same postion?

Are all floats adjusted equally?

IKn other words, is everything adjusted the same in all 4 carburetors?

How's the valve clearence?

 

Also, a sparkplug what sparks outside a cylinder, doesn't necessarilly sparks in the cylinder, this could be the case with a sparkplug what had to suffer "testing" and overfuelling (and cleaned after that)

Edited by Reinhoud
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Things is, it was then  it wasn't working, and jumping cylinders is just incredible . I will try more throttle today.

I do have a stroboscope and I will try that, cheers.

All screws and floats, and  needles are the same, factory, plus V and H exhaust,  recommended settings.

I don't know what the valve clearances are.

I'm not happy with the plugs, when I tested for spark it seemed keener to arc through the side than spark through the electrode end, and have sent for new, reputable ones, also a fuel bag, to hang up, so I can stop taking the tank on and off after every check or adjustment.

Thank you Reinhoud.

Edited by bob654
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4 hours ago, BigT said:

Why would you swap the vacuum line from the vacuum port to the float bowl breather?

I'm surprised #2 is running

No, I swapped from one out-let one one carb to an other out-let on a different carb. I was sort of thinking ,- Is it getting fuel cos its the two end cylinders that are playing up?

I bought this to learn more, and, I am certainly puzzled more.:)

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I want to add.

Spark plugs are black sooty I thought this might be because of all the stop start and no riding.What do you people think?

I could go one rating down to burn off the deposits?

From B8ES ,to, B7ES?

Edited by bob654
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8 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

How did you conclude that? There is a vacuum fuel tap and he swapped the vac. hose from one carb to another - nothing to do with breathers !

Because only one carb (#2) is a vacuum tap. The other two taps are vents for the float bowls, to allow the fuel level to rise and fall. 

How did I conclude that?   Knowledge

Edited by BigT
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6 hours ago, bob654 said:

No, I swapped from one out-let one one carb to an other out-let on a different carb. I was sort of thinking ,- Is it getting fuel cos its the two end cylinders that are playing up?

I bought this to learn more, and, I am certainly puzzled more.:)

Well, you need to learn that #2 is a vacuum port, designed to open the fuel tap

The other two ports are vents, to allow fuel to rise and fall in the float bowls

So, you just created a massive air leak on the #2 cylinder.  And that's the reason I stated I was surprised the bike would run on #2. You are numbering from left hand to right?

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1 minute ago, BigT said:

Well, you need to learn that #2 is a vacuum port, designed to open the fuel tap

The other two ports are vents, to allow fuel to rise and fall in the float bowls

So, you just created a massive air leak on the #2 cylinder.  And that's the reason I stated I was surprised the bike would run on #2. You are numbering from left hand to right?

Does that mean two is the master. Yes left to right.

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45 minutes ago, BigT said:

Because only one carb (#2) is a vacuum tap. The other two taps are vents for the float bowls, to allow the fuel level to rise and fall. 

How did I conclude that?   Knowledge

How do you balance the carbs then - they all have a vacuum port. Any of which could be used for the tap vac!

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29 minutes ago, bob654 said:

In the cylinder head? oss?

Sorry, to clarify, in answer to Gixer1460, the balancing ports are in the inlet tract, not on the carbs.

As BigT says, only one of the brass spigots on the carbs is vacuum....the other 2 are float bowl vents.

OSS = Old Skool Suzuki!

Edited by gs7_11
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3 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

How do you balance the carbs then - they all have a vacuum port. Any of which could be used for the tap vac!

I balance the carbs (which I just did) by using the sync vacuum ports on the head.  

We're talking carbs here. There is only one vacuum port on the carbs.  We had this discussion like, what, 3 weeks ago? You still haven't figured out what the 3 taps on the carbs are for?

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1 hour ago, BigT said:

No, it means #2 is the vacuum port

For syncing carbs, #3 is the master on BS carbs

Have you synced the carbs?

Bench synced I was about to start tuning for the first time when it started missing.

Edited by bob654
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Mikuni VM26SS. 

The pilot fuel screw ( on the bottom) on of these has been over tightened and now can stick up through the bottom of the venturi  I saw this when I rebuilt them and considered it to be usable with care, I now have my doubts.

I want to wait for the remote fuel tank to arrive so I can have an other go , ignition timing, checking plugs,  before pulling the carbs again.

I have, however been looking to replace this carb if its the culprit ( I cant remember which one it is, I thought if I didn't know it wouldn't cloud my judgement).

 

Can anyone tell me if the GS1000 had the same carbs?

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The 1000 and the 750 have the same carb bodies. The mounting plate/idle screw are a bit different, but interchangable 

Naturally, the jetting/slides/needles are likely diffferent. The 750 jetting seems to change every year

Just be sure to get the the correct carb body, because 1-4 are all different

 

Wait, you have VM carbs? I thought you had a post 80 bike. On VM carbs, the vacuum port is on #3

Edited by BigT
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