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Posted (edited)
11 hours ago, BigT said:

 

  You somehow have the impression that working on a 40 year old motorcycle should be a series of quick fixes. It's not. Expect to spend weeks or months and a bunch of cash to make it right. Was your bike cheap? Ask yourself why that was so

 

 

 

 

yeah no i noticed that when i first started doing it and buying oem used parts off Eblag gets you with the shipping costs, when i first called a shop they said they dont work on older bikes because opening it up can cause more problems. i guess im just trying to rush it because i need it to get around, i have my tire and everything works on the bike except my fuel valve and obviously it wont start hopefully because the carbs, im sure it is because the bikes ran before and we thought it ran on 3 cylinders because a spark test and a cylinder wasnt showing any change of tone and then we turned the idle up and all 4 showed a change in tone, i have the fuel valve already ordered and ill be reading more about it before i touch the carbs again. i also agree i dont think the spray does much i mean it got majority and i also had to wipe hard on some spots a bit because the spray wasnt getting the rust out but the carbs werent terribly dirty, i definitely wanna do the gel or acitone whatever it is and get them looking new.

yes im that guy but i wont be always i hope it changes later on

i worried alot right when i got the bike because it did smoke when the dude first started it up and it was sitting for a while and also it was posted for $1000 and he said yes to 750 right away and i got it for 700. my buddy ran the shit out of it on the way home and it was a 30 minute drive back and nothing went wrong and the smoke was barely even visible, it ended up stopping alltogether, i ran it all the time for the next two days would start right up then it shut off on me twice during a little longer of its usual ride when i pulled the clutch in to downshift and stop and then it ended up sitting at my friends and i wanted to start it weekly but it ended up not happening that way and then it didnt wanna start. i was impatient to get a bike because i was looking for over two months and the day i was gonna check out a old virago the dude cancelled an i was just like im getting a bike today.

Edited by v-twinwalker
Posted

Took me three times as long to download than to find the info............. you can't adjust it - its fixed to stop tampering!

PS you can't get better than a genuine manufacturer workshop manual!

 

GS650GL Idle mixture setting.JPG

Posted
4 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

Took me three times as long to download than to find the info............. you can't adjust it - its fixed to stop tampering!

PS you can't get better than a genuine manufacturer workshop manual!

 

GS650GL Idle mixture setting.JPG

It's not fixed, it's just got a cap over it. The cap come right off, and you need to pull the mixture screw to properly clean the carbs. Check the rebuild link I posted

Posted

BigT is right, leaving the pilot screw in when cleaning is a no-no.

You need to remove it to clean the drilling. But you just make a note of where it was, then put it back the same.

Besides, sounds like the OP has already removed/fiddled with it.

Posted
On 11/8/2019 at 7:59 AM, Gixer1460 said:

Took me three times as long to download than to find the info............. you can't adjust it - its fixed to stop tampering!

PS you can't get better than a genuine manufacturer workshop manual!

 

GS650GL Idle mixture setting.JPG

i did find this and i looked at this chart but obviously didnt know what parts actually do what but yeah my pilot air screw is non adjustable i was stressing over it thinking thats what i was supposed to be adjusting, as for the caps that cover the pivot screw they have already been took off before i didnt know there was even a cap that covers them, im not touching it itll be left alone until i know what im even doing to balance them out. i will be getting a manual, heres what i found out. 1) the bike wont start or want to start if i run it with no airbox/pods, which it didnt so ill be putting them back on i didnt realise it would stop it from wanting to run at all, 2) my fuel valve was leaking and flooded my float bowls while i was trying to get it started. 3) i just need to read things myself before asking question over question. the people on gsresources said get ur bike started before you even begin to mess with ur idle mixture, but yall are saying id need to take them out to properly clean the carbs, should i count the number of turns it is to take them out, or just leave it alone and focus on what i did wrong the first time before moving on to the next thing. i have a sense of hope since i didnt mess up any adjustments and that itll be back soon. 

Posted
On 11/8/2019 at 12:12 PM, BigT said:

Check the rebuild link I posted

ill check it the people on gsresources gave me a good one that went over every bit and piece, i dont know if i want to tear my carbs apart like they showed me because it involves seperating them into individual carbs, are the pieces mix and match? im not sure because i know there is a main carb then the others but maybe thats just how they get fuel. 

 

i forget who gave me the site for o-rings and stuff like that but thankyou and then thankyou everyone who keeps telling me im wrong because i am lol and gives me better advice.

 

hopefully i wont be on here repeatedly asking why my bike wont start and itll be up when i get my parts for it.

Posted
3 hours ago, v-twinwalker said:

involves seperating them into individual carbs, are the pieces mix and match? im not sure because i know there is a main carb then the others but maybe thats just how they get fuel.

If the pieces you're talking about are the individual carbs, nope, they go back together the way you take them apart. The balancing screws have to match up to each other, as well as breather and fuel T joints.

The internal stuff like floats, jets, slides you can mix'n'match around though.

Posted
1 hour ago, Jaydee said:

If the pieces you're talking about are the individual carbs, nope, they go back together the way you take them apart. The balancing screws have to match up to each other, as well as breather and fuel T joints.

The internal stuff like floats, jets, slides you can mix'n'match around though.

yeah i meant the internals thank god i was boutta look like a fukn idiot cuz i mixed and matched them

Posted

Re the Mixture screws - having the caps already removed is a bad sign ie. someone before you has likely been tampering and so whatever is there now may or may not be the stock settings ! ! ! To check the setting - look at where the screw head is now and then slowly and gently screw it in till it bottoms out - DON'T FORCE IT ! whilst counting the rotations. Most stock screws are usually between 1 and 2.5 turns from closed and will vary in 1/8 turn increments - i'd start at 1.5 turns ?

Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

Re the Mixture screws - having the caps already removed is a bad sign ie. someone before you has likely been tampering and so whatever is there now may or may not be the stock settings ! ! ! To check the setting - look at where the screw head is now and then slowly and gently screw it in till it bottoms out - DON'T FORCE IT ! whilst counting the rotations. Most stock screws are usually between 1 and 2.5 turns from closed and will vary in 1/8 turn increments - i'd start at 1.5 turns ?

yeah my bike ran a bit rich it definently was tampered with, wish i could give updates but im just waiting for some parts to get down to the carbs again, i wouldnt wanna mess with it if im not gonna be able to see the affect while im doin it.

Edited by v-twinwalker

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