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Hi fellow suzuki riders, I have a problem with my 1982 suzuki gsx1100. I have two dead cylinders 2 and 4, but 1 and 3 runs ok. I can start it which is quite hard and ride it at 27km/h at FULL throttle, which is even harder. I have a new battery on, around 120 psi cold compression on all four, completely rebuild carburetors(ultra sonicly cleaned) and newly refurbished cylinder head with adjusted valves. When i went through the wiring and testing of it, i meassured the coils primary to 1.8ohm and secondary to 26.5k ohm, on both coils, which is within specs as what i could tell from my haynes manual. I then came to the ignitor and noticed that it became untouchably hot after just a few seconds. Can this cause my possible misfiring conditions of the 2 cylinders and poor performance and how in the world do i fix it? I should mention that i gave it a new wiring harness with a Moto Gadget M-unit blue, original rectifier and starter. Thank you Morten

Hi, I recently started fixing up this Suzuki GSX 400 1982 model Is it possible to use the module I ordered here instead of the unit I was supposed to order here? The 6-pin cdi module that arrived has a separate ground connection, and considering that the original unit has a connection that's not in use, it has the same wires. Ordered the correct unit

So... problem is very silly, but pretty huge for me. Completely don’t know how to connect that little thing. 8 pins, on wiring harness just 6 lines. Any help? Best solution is explain it to me like to biggest dummy in the world(drawing will be good).

I have a gs750e a 1983 as of now I have an 82 1100 GS CDI box on it I would like to get one of the stock ones or was wondering if a early model GSXR or teapot would work or are they all about the same I know they changed a lot from 82 to 83 was just wondering if anybody had any experience with this or if any of them would give me more power thanks any input would be helpful

I have a 83 gs750e and was wondering if a CDI swap from a order 80s gsxr or katana would work and which one would be better right now I have a CDI from a 82 GS 1100 because an 83e are hard to find And would putting one from a GSXR or katana improve my performance any

Hi all, almost no hair left now after rebuilding my GT500. Now I know it was fitted with pointless ignition but this is really doing my brain serious damage. At every turn I've had dodgy electrics to deal with - the rest of the bike hasn't been an issue at all apart from the electrics!!! After pulling the very rusty bike apart - who lets a bike stand under a tarp for years....???? - and putting it back together I just can't get a spark. At this point I have to say I am a Muppet with electrics. It just means nothing and appears to be some kind of magic rather than some physical entity. After initially getting no spark I did manage to put a voltmeter across the coils and got nothing so I binned them I also ordered some new plugs and caps from Rex's Speedshop. Feeling this was sorted I tried for a spark - nada. At that point I decided as the rest of the electrics were rubbish and if not failed would pretty soon fail anyway I replaced the CDI unit, Reg / Rectifier with new. Guess what - yup - no spark. Yes I had turned on the key! OK in that case it must be the ignition coil so I replaced that too. No it wasn't. I spoke to a helpful chap at Electrex World who suggested it could be dodgy connection and to hard wire (solder) the connection which I did but - hence the reason for me writing - it didn't help. Could it be to do with the pickup that sits on top of the rotor...??? There's a red & white wire that leads back to the CDI box which to my mind should be the supply to the unit & the rest of the ignition...??? Should there be a current there when I manually turn the rotor? If there should be a current and there isn't because wither the pickup is faulty (is that possible...???) or because the wire's broken how on earth am I going to repair that as the wire is covered in clear goo which I assume is to protect it from earthing out...

Hey guys. I have a B12 loom and engine in my 88 750 and I’m getting ready to do the DOT head swap. question is can I use the 750 CDI with the bandit loom?? I know a few pins are in different positions but I’m wondering what to do about the neutral switch wires as the 750 CDI doesn’t have pins for that. i have the 750 loom but I’m sure it’s trashed as the bike was In horrible condition when I got it (hence why I used the B12 loom) here’s how she’s looking now and thanks in advance for any advice Cheers O

Soooo one of those annoying no clue questions guys sorry. 90 gsxr 1100 slingshot which I commute eighty miles a day on. Without warning develops a misfire then cuts out. Half an hour later fired into life. Completes journey home. Following day the same. So suspect coils but funds don't allow for Dyna, go for R6 stick coils with new denso connectors. Bike revs clean put it back together and test ride, which starts well and ends with a misfire and engine cut out. CDI igniter box scorched and smelling awful. Check wiring order another CDI off fleabay. Plug in test ride and exactly the same again. Order CDI off flea bay and find bike charging at over 15 volts so get alternator too. Plug it all in check voltage and spot on, engine runs great put back together. Same again. I could have bought Dyna twice by now. New CDI plugged in engine sounds and revs awesome with stick coils. CDI heats up after five minutes. Charge voltage fine .... Any ideas greatly appreciated, be gentle I'm not overly technical as you can tell. Cheers.

Hi guys I'm building a huc chop using a gsxf 600 engine and I have a mk1 bandit cdi I need to try and test the engine but have no loom can anyone give me a diagram for the bandit cdi to tell what each pin is for so I can connect a temp loom to test the engine cheers guys