Goo'Roo

Unfortunately not. Is a friend of mine that did 184bhp at the wheel with premium unleaded 100ron petrol. But it's the only pic I have of the engine

85,5mm on custom liners fitted to stock cylinder block

I used the 20g because I had it from a proboost kit. Ignitech is very simple, comes with the wiring adapter, but it's anyway really easy to wire and setup. Stock triggersystem works and you can maintain the switch off safety system and add a killer switch too. With a gear switch you can activate the quickshift too. I used the green Dyna coils.

Kinugawa has mitsu 1-3 td05 turbocharger like your with ball bearing, and billet compressor. That should help a lot. https://store.kinugawaturbosystems.com/it/collections/for-mhi-evo-1-3/products/evo3-dsm-3a-td05h16g-stsadvanced?variant=31949794345044

My experience with a similar setup: Busa pistons, 0.5mm skimmed block, Chinese cxracing td05-20g turbo (a really slow spoolup turbo actually), ported gsf1200 head, gsx1100f cams, ape studs, 36mm carbs, big volume, dual chamber plenum, Ignitech CDI mapped with map sensor, and I made 240bhp at the wheel with 0.8 boost of pressure, that I consider pretty good values considering no intercooler and the "low" boost pressure.

You need the smallest turbine housing to get some decent spooling time.

I don't think 12 of afr on an air-cooled engine is a good idea. I destroyed one cylinder head trying to stay close to that number. I would suggest a much safer 10.5-11

I have both ECUs, and I have to do two different bikes.

I have to send them an email to ignitech, tonight I'm going to start studying maxxecu software. Thanks Arttu

Ok, ignitech is still like ms1 then. I understand now why I was so confused.

Nice reading for tonight, Thanks Arttu. So for example in a 24-1 like an Hayabusa gen2, with the missing lobe at 100°, considering a tooth every 15° would you use tooth 30 to start advance cylinder one with 10° of base advance? Or would you choose the 29 with 25° of base advance? With base advance I mean the distance between the tooth of the cylinder you're considering and his TDC

Hello I can't figure out how properly draw a 24-1 or -2 teeths, that I have to use with maxxecu and ignitech ECU. I've measured that the center of the spline on the crankshaft is offset by 102.5° before the 1-4 cylinders TDC. Now I have a couple of questions.. -Where do I have to locate the missing teeth? Just before teeth n.1? -Does usually the ecu consider the midpoint of the teeth crest while reading or the first edge that encounters? -How many degrees before 1/4 cylinder TDC shall I place the first tooth, considering the second question? Thank you all

The long stroke one in the Gsf750 mk2. It has bigger valves than your B6 and fit straight.

Left: Gsx 1100 F short angled down few degrees Center: Gsx 750 F MK1 dot short straight Right: Gsf1200 MK1 long straight

Thanks, that's more than enough. Rebuild the subframe is not a problem, I've issues in the rear part of the cam cover because of the twin spar frame